Russell griffiths

Sitting here bored tonight I thought I would do some research for you @pocster after a couple of hours of thought I think I have sorted out your problem. I did consult @Nickfromwales on his views but he was a bit drunk, so not much help. Hope this is of help, if not pease contact customer service on 1-800 couldn’t give a shit dot com. Your welcome.

Griggs timber, Gloucestershire.

I haven’t used them but I did get a quote of pasquil and it was 25% dearer than the company I used.

I don’t think the width is as important as the depth, it’s the depth of a beam that provides most of the strength. I have a steel beam holding up my roof roof that is something like 147mm wide but 450mm deep.

1200gauge, what’s that for ? have you got a dpm under the insulation? the membrane that goes on top is just very thin polythene it’s not a dpm buy the thinnest clear polythene, then you can see your kingspan as you staple it, avoids trying to put a staple in a join and them pulling out. As @ADLIan said what does it say on kingspan site. I would try try to do two layers not one then you can stagger joins.

My personal opinion is you have no chance whatsoever. Of getting that at the back. Why not build the workshop at the side, two beds above it and kitchen diner around the back. Its a fairly standard thing, so planners are familiar with it, ask for something rather unconventional and you make them twitch and start looking at reasons to refuse. Has anybody done this rear rear extension near you.

Are you putting a thin membrane over the top to stop screed getting in the gaps. Is it liquid screed or traditional ?

I fitted 700m of the knauf stuff, I will never use rockwool again.

What’s wrong with two storey at the side and a single at the back. Its called a wrap around, it’s a good solution as it replaces over half of your previous external walls with new better constructed walls. Large open plan kitchen diner at the back, couple of rooflights in it, will bring it kicking and screaming into 2021.

How many times can you alter things before they get the hump, I want some done to look at my cladding design, but I want two or three versions.

Who is fitting the rockwool? having just worked on a house with rockwool fitted between the rafters I would safely say it is the nastiest building product you will come across. I would look at alternatives. I brought a few different manufacturers insulation just to test fit and found Knauf omnifit to be the nicest to use.

I doubt you will get a double storey rear extension. Show us a couple of pics, we will soon have 367 different opinions, but you did ask.

Probably going to sound rude, but it’s not meant like that. £425,000 is south of Birmingham prices, for that price up there it must be a cracking plot in a cracking area. So probably demands a super house built on it. 5 beds 3 baths, downstairs cloak and shower, home office, utility room, 3 car garage. So you are probably under developing it. If this is the case then you can forget the standard figures. You need to build it for you not for anybody else. Alternatively you need to build the better house but think of it as long term investment. Finish off all in for £875,000 but you have a million pound house. When the kids sod off sell up and build a smaller one. I have a friend building a huge mansion of a place, just as his kids are off to university, but he’s doing it to sell on in ten years time.

It baffles me how my Howdens bills have an 80% discount from catalogue price.

No it’s a service batten to run pipes and cables through.

Start breaking it down in your head, we used to pay £600 a day for traffic management for lights and signage for a single lane closure.

You still need insulation on the inside to mitigate against the cold bridges through the studs, just fitting 140 between studs does not make a good wall build up.

Plastic eaves support tray is 2-3mm thick not 25mm. As I believe you said no vents on top of facia.

As gus said, do you have an arborists doing a method statement for you on how this should be done, or are the council not aware you are going down this route.

The different types of buildup will have a major effect on other aspects of the build, having 150mm plus of insulation on top of your rafters will make finished heights higher. So needs thinking about quickly.

Can you not go around it, if it’s a pumped system it’s not relying on gravity so making the run longer shouldn’t be a problem.

Bit late now, you can sit your soffit on top of your last course of bricks, this saves you having to cut soffit and creates a nice edge. I would do a bit of mocking up, grab half a dozen metre lengths of batten and batten out the first 4-5 rows of slates. Allowing for any detail courses at the eaves, you will soon see how high the facia needs to be buy the way the slates sit, then get a gutter bracket and some soffit, after two hours of messing you will have a better idea.

If you say period property, are you now changing to plastic. For timber you want a carpenter, either of the above can stick some up can up and smear some silicone around.

if you look at the three windows up high, when I asked the engineer to design the steel for this I told him I hadn’t made my mind up on window sizes, so the columns between the windows might change, so he designed it so that no columns where actually needed. So in-effect all three of those windows could be one, which would put the opening at something like 5.8m.

3m wide window with steel corner post.