Russell griffiths

All I will say is re think the durisol part.

Why not, I have two outside taps coming off before it enters the house.

Normal floor eps is only 70kpa, so yours is fine.

Ok then mr Nick @Nickfromwales, what regs say you have to have a bath. I hadn’t planned on putting a bath in, but at the last minute did, so if the house didn’t have a bath, what then.

Did I mention any names ??

We all ponder the same question. But you are fairly amusing, so carry on. At least your posts don’t go on for ever and ever and ever like a certain bloke we know.

If you don’t fix it now it will mess everything up the further down the line, fix it now before it’s too late.

Was £5.50 LM when I brought mine. I have another project that I need ?? Will need to keep my 12 year old truck another year or two.

Ask the roof designer. You should have a truss layout sheet with all the connections listed on it. All hold down details and uplift straps should be on the same drawing.

If you put something cheap and nasty under that open gable, you will regret it. Needs to be something a bit tasty.

The cedar was eye wateringly expensive, and the oil also, add the two together and it’s getting up with the price of those aluminium panels.

Cedar here, if you think it’s expensive to buy, wait until you oil it. I don’t know where the prices come from ?? would be cheaper to buy my own forest.

Can you not do it below with a false ceiling.

No fixings in my base track at all, just lots of pu sealant applied as door track went in, then another tube inside and out, you would need to rip it out with an excavator if you wanted to take it out.

i used it under my sliders, 400kg on it, it won’t hold a screw though. Do you really need screws in the cill area.

That’s u value, not airtightness.

If you are considering passive standards then I thought bi folds where something to avoid, I was under the impression that they have poor air sealing that gets worse as they get older.

You need a trap for the washing machine, sealing the waste pipe on just let’s the smells out of the drum.

Quick response. Scrape off the blinding down to just a bit to fill in voids 25mm eps to squish down to protect dpm dpm 100mm pir concrete floor with mesh with ufh tied to mesh. Grind and polish concrete. Increase insulation if you have the height. If you don’t want polished concrete then finish the concrete well, thin coat of self levelling compound and LVT floor.

If you have a leak that needle will drop like a stone, it will literally flop straight around to zero. To give yourself a reality check, crack a valve open the tiniest bit, you will see an instant drop.

Don’t be bloody ridiculous

Remember to drop the pressure when the screed is in, the heat from the curing process increases the pressure. Mine hit 12 bar before I spotted it. ??‍♂️?

Why not change the outside cladding to non combustible.

1500x 1000 is a small window in my book, when they get to 3000x 1600 then they get a bit heavy, window fitting must be the most overcharged job going.

I had a design like yours so I spaced flow and return at 150 like the rest of the house so if you shorten the pink purple loop and space them evenly across that area. Lose all runs in hall and just cover with flow return.