Conor

Get a dual rate. I'm surprised they are not the standard now. You can have an normal tariff on a dual rate meter, but not the other way round.

Your house is full of 100s of litres of water. Open the windows. It'll take weeks to dry. All heating is doing is lifting the water from warm parts and depositing it on cold parts.

Would a reciprocating saw do the job? Easily handle 4" stems. I find them way more versatile and easier to use than a chainsaw. Unless you need something long reach?

No recommendations, but we had a large (6x2m) shade specified. I priced round a few online aluminium manufacturers. Prices were all in the £5-6k range for supply only. We could have had something made locally from steel, but would have needed substantial fixings that were not considered when designing the wall (basically a set of narrow concrete columns housing the 5m wide windows). Instead we winged it, extended the fat roof above by 600mm, and so far no overheating issues. There are definitely more elegant, smarter, practical and cheaper ways to keep heat out.

Is this internal steel? Is it not being boxed in then? What about fire protection? Anyway, sand back the offending areas back to the steel, re prime and paint again.

Send some pics of the finished roof please. If they encountered something that was not included in the quote, then that's fair enough. If not, you'll need to come to some sort of agreement. I had this with our builder, he openly said he messed up the floor area in his quote and would be out of pocket. There was a discrepancy on one of the drawings (dims all correct, one annotation on bottom of drawing stated wrong floor area) so we my half way. Sometime need to be pragmatic. Sounds like this guy mis-priced the job and is chancing his arm.

Why is the cavity only 65mm? What's your wall buildup?

2.5tonne mini digger. Set an area with polythene sheet for the mix to be dumped out. This time of year, you'll have a good couple of hours or more working time, at least. Have a mate with a shovel to help get it in evenly and spread out. Mini digger hire will be less than half of a concrete pump. And I'm sure you'll have a few other jobs for it to do while you've got it. If you've never operated one before, get it the day before and get practicing. Valuable skill to have.

We got our from Martin Phillips carpet, all the carpet they sell is low tog and suitable for UFH. It's not overly thin anyway.

What design and heatloss calculations were done? Do you have a table showing required for rates fro each zone? If it was designed for a 30c flow temp and it's set to 25c, your house will never be warm. Oh, and nothing wrong not zoning individual UFH loops, in fact better as a single zone. All three of my manifolds are set like that, I run the house as two zones and it's perfect.

We've normal carpets with the special underlay and it works fine. You don't need that much heat output upstairs anyway.

One at the back and then a steel strap along the front, fixed to the unit sides, not the worktop. But the adhesive they use seems rock hard.

All we did was leave the sink in the box in the kitchen and the guys from the worktop company did all the figuring out when they came out to template. Can't fault them. Ours was then glued on by the worktop fitters. I didn't trust it so fitted a a timber batten across the back. Not fallen off yet.

You need ~15mm cover over the pipes, so about 16mm for a pipe, a couple mm sticking up here or there meaning you need a min depth of 35mm. They say min 50mm on basis you'll have high spots and it'll be thinner. There's not much you can do about it anyway. Move on to the next job.

+1 for ecology.

It's a £350 extra to convert if you have bought the ducted version. We bought 5he extract version but didn't install the duct work as was almost impossible to get a good run that would have worked.. ducts too big for either burying in floor or in ceiling void below. Tbh, if ours is on its either 9 or P. I don't think any downdraft works on low speed, you need high velocity for the effect to work. Rest of the time it's off and the MVHR copes well with general steam and light odours. In your case, either open the nearest window (I assume you have at least one openable window in the kitchen for BC compliance) or install a in-wall extractor fan.

No issue using brown pipes above ground, as long as they are not exposed to light. Most of my internal soil pipe work is brown as there was a better range and availability of fittings. BCO happy as well.

Footings work by spreading load over a large surface area. This pipe will only be a relatively small surface area. It'll make no difference to the structure of the house. I do think that BC will ask you to lay a new land drain away from the house and cut this one off. The risk is the pipe fails, water starts escaping and flowing, erodes away the earth and creates a major weak point in the earth below the footing.

If the pipe is just going under the footing, then should be easy enough to divert it a metre or so. But first trace it both ways and see what it does!

Ha, no such thing exists. If there is a detailed drawing, I'll only show indicative lines only Get a plumber in and they'll give you the story in an hour or so.

It'll be 1/4 or 3/8, likely the latter as widely used on heating systems and components. I bet if you unscrew one of the pressure gauges, it'll fit. Definitely worth bringing it down to your nearest plumbers merchant and getting it right first time. Or just order a selection of plugs, will only be a couple quid. A small box of random brass bushes, reducers, straights etc is sooo handy to have.

How much insualtion do you have under the screed and what flow temps using? Everything else is incidental.

I'm running weather comp but reduced the step on the curve, was set too high a temp, so now max flow temp is 35c.

Render over the lintel, paint, then fit the oak over. Buy the greener one and leave it in the room for a few months before fitting.

The local gas network owner will come out and check it for you, for free.