Conor

One for @dpmiller Only fault I've had was due to a power cut.

How many zones, what's your flow temp, how are they controlled, do you have a buffer tank? It sounds like pump is oversized.

We were added to the valuation list on 17th March, BC signoff 30th July. Latter was the date used. Maybe valuation date not used as it was a replacement build rather than a new one? So was only "off" the register temporarily. (We did include a letter explaining move in dates, incomplete works, visit by LPS valuer, etc, etc. I think providing context to the assessors is helpful, as it says on the form, you have to declare these facts anyway)

Photos from the outside please. Closeups of the flashing and any taken during installation. What's with the sheets of OSB?

Our ASHP needed a reset after a cut. Only realised several hours later when we ran out of hot water.

1. No. 2. You should be able to claim the hob, we did. 3. No. 4. Yes. Think the three months is now 6. And it's from date of BC signoff. Put the claim in as late as possible and buy whatever you think you'll need. I bought a dozen sheets of osb, general timber, trade boxes of screws, delivery of blocks, sand, cement etc (For the items bought after BC signoff, we included a letter explaining they were for items not required for signoff and we're for things that were part of the fabric of the build, landscaping, paving, flooring etc. we had several thousands worth and they paid it all.

Not if there is nowhere for it to go at the end. Turbulence will clear water to about 5x pipe diameters on the branch, no more. It'll need to be isolated at this point or have a way to be regularly drained off at the end. This is why fire hydrants have a built in "duckfoot" or U bend in them, so when there is an issue on the water main, the horrible, stinking water in the hydrant doesn't flow back in to the main. Also why the meter box at the front of your property will have a non return valve.

It's a potential health issue. Old, dead water will sit in those legs for long periods of time, stuff will grow, and then when you have a low water pressure event / shutoff / partial drain down, that old water will enter the system and potentially be a risk. Any dead lengths should be isolated where they branch off from the supply within 5x pipe diameters.

I'm assuming you're putting down 50mm insualtion, UFH pipes, then liquid screed. In that case there will be a polythene sheet laid on top of the insulation and lapped up the side of the walls prior to pouring. Are you going to board the walls first as well? I would, means screed drying time is not a constraint.

Yes. Two options. Cut the hole and fit the meter box and see how it goes. You might need to scrab away some mortar in the cavity to make it work. If it's sitting a few mm proud, then a bit of sealant will do the job. If it's sitting out a fair bit, you can build a brick surround up against the face of the wall where the meter boxes are, then you'll have plenty of depth. You'll need to do some flashing at the top to keep water away, and make sure dpc is not bridged, otherwise simple job. From memory it's your responsibility to fit the meter boxes in accordance with their spec, along with any customer side works, then your supplier will arrange via the DNO to move the apparatus. The guys installing the meter and moving bits around won't care as long as they can do their job.

Ok, the. The pipe will be coming out to the RHS, bending round before going in to you pretty. At a guess, 1-2m to RHS of the box. Bend radius on a 25mm MDPE is pretty big.

I've seen 1000s of meter box installs. 90% of the time it'll run straight. The other 10% could be anywhere. First, is the outlet side of the box pointing towards your property? I.e. in your photo the customer side will be at the bottom of your photo, the meter side. The valve side is the incoming mains. Sometimes they are installed at 180⁰ if the supplying main is close to the property and they need to loop the pipe back to avoid the main or other services. Post a photo of the surrounding area, camera facing your property. Also, are you sure that's your meter?

(we insualted our store room walls, no UFH, and keep the door closed, two of the walls are external so it keeps a little cooler than the rest of the house, but truth be told it's really hard to have any different temp zones in a well insulated house)

1. Don't bother. You've almost no condensation risk. 2. Don't bother. We don't have either of our store rooms ventilated. Only one we do is laundry cupboard. 3. Can reccomend the Lindab airy.

Might not be worth the effort. You'll need to build something more substantial. E.g. concrete blocks on their flat with facing brick. You'll need to dig the lot up and put in better footings, maybe some drainage. You might want to redo the patio while you're at it. Or just get rid of the wall, slope the soil back and just have a simple pin kerb edging the paving.

x2 times more than GF. But sooo many factors.

Just dump the vaccum filters / bags etc and wet wipe clean. No harm in getting the carpet shampooed. No need to replace! Remember the risk from asbestos is direct inhalation of fibres. Cement bound is far less risky, as even the liberated fibres are still attached to cement particles.

You'd need to do a soil investigation and have a SE advise. Especially when within 4m of a structure. Our soil was particularly stiff, allowing 60⁰ battering with membrane to reduce erosion. You'll not be able to build standard foundations for the extension on ground that you've disturbed. Lots of factors and worth a chat with your architect and SE.

If you've somewhere for the soil to go, that's a massive chunk saved! It will be a substantial concrete structure. Maybe a 150mm slap with min one layer of mesh, the walls will be 200mm with plenty of rebar. Having part of the garden above will add a certain level of complexity. ICF is an option but tanking will be your biggest challenge. You'll most likely need a third party to do this in order to satisfy building control and house insurers / mortgage companies. It'll need to be a full wrap around as part of it will be under your garden. Other big costs will be drainage, importing a LOT of stone, insurance (excavations over a certain depth will attract a higher premium, for good reasons.) Other than that, basements are easy

How much money do you have for this "extra"? £300k? £500k? £700k? Because those are the kind of numbers you need to have in mind.

Could do with drawings / site photos. Basements are normally built in situ reinforced concrete, either in iCF or temporary formwork. A tanking system is applied. This is brought up 150mm above the surrounding ground level. For the "roof", you'd drop in precast concrete planks, and build your garage as normal on top of this concrete box. What would you be using the basement for? Will it be part of the house? How big?

Original thread for context and some examples from members

Struggling to get a gate we like at a sensible price. As suggested on a previous thread, I'm making my own. Keeping it quite basic, 4m clear opening, each leaf 1.5m tall, metal frame, hardwood panel infill: Some questions: Metal frame: assuming 50x50x3mm SHS OK for the job? Planning on using L shaped angle to fix the wood panels to. I'm OK at welding... Hinges: Any recommendations? Latch / Lock. I'm getting an opening kit. What kind of latch/lock do I need (if any?) Wood: Thinking 150x25mm hardwood planks for longevity. We'll be painting/staining. Do I need T&G panels, butt, biscuit join? Don't want cracking/splitting. Anything else to consider? Thanks

I'm planning similar, straight out the wall, down through a waste pipe in to the ground. Our entire house is backfilled with 25mm stone, one giant soakaway. It's easier than trying to tie it in to the main sewer. No need.

Tiny amount. I've never gotten round to plumbing in my condensate pipe, so it current fills a large plastic lunch box. Only really have condensate when it's cold outside. Normally in winter it's about ~100ml per day. Nothing in summer. I empty it a couple times a week.