Conor

Render and a masonry paint. I'm not sure paint alone will do the job.

Our spark refused to fit our consumer unit etc in the plant room until it was boarded over. And then Intumescant paint on the backboard for the CU, inverter etc. Fyi our ply sheets were fitted to the blocks using 50mm hammer in fixings. Seems to have been a spot on job. In hindsight would not have bothered at all as all the gubbins ended up on a separate board as the spark wanted to run the cables behind it. So I'd just stick a couple battens on the part of the wall where you'll be mounting your gear, and use fire rated backboard. For pipe clips etc, wee concrete screws are no bother. For light blocks you just drill a smaller pilot hole. E.g. 4mm isntrad of 5mm.

Get an architect / technologist involved to help with the optimal layout. We did an extension and went ~600mm beyond PD under recommendation of architect... Slightly longer wait to get started but was worth it as the space was perfect.

You run the risk of being asked to rebuild parts of the building. There's lots of arguments either way, e.g. retain structure in order to reduce embedded carbon cost, Vs demolish to get better insulation and lower long term CO2 emissions. Also, don't forget your mortgage company (need their permission, unlikely you'll get it for a full demo) and also insurance. Might be worth a word with the planning officer to see what they think

Get rid of the 10mm and have both 15mm. You need the flow rate. We insualted our long (15m+) run. Means if you go back to the sink a few mins after running the hot, it's still warm enough. Otherwise it's a 10 second wait for hot water.

The black pipe will be imperial sized alkathene. Remove the tee. Fit a universal coupler, something like 22-29mm OD to 25mm MDPE. Then a short length of 25mm MDPE pipe, then a 25mm tee. I'm assuming that's all 25mm, you've not specified. You'll need to make that hole a good bit better to get the space. Don't use brass compression fittings!!!!

Measure, and see if they are actually 25x50mm, and not 22x44mm. I think the coloured batten thing is regional/supplier specific.. All the ones I've seen here in NI are natural (with a green tint from the preserving process.) But are stamped and correct standard.

It's a domestic self build, commercial metering not required for your builder. Never speak of this again 🤫

1. Yes, the supply will need to be extended by the network operator to the permanent meter box in your house. The meter will also have to be moved, this is done by the electric provider. 2. BUT... You .might be able to keep the meter in the box as the permanent installation, and run your own cable from the main fuse I side you your co sumer unit.

So what's the justification for a phase 2 site survey? I'd be pushing back and appealing.

A bit late now, but I wouldn't have contacted Thames at all. You have a supply, use it as you see fit. You can apply for the lead replacement once you have finished the build and you have laid your own plastic supply pipe to the stopcock. Thames will then replace the lead pipe on their side.

Do you have a pressure gauge on the I coming supply? If you have a PRV, you should have one upstream and one downstream. Is both hot and cold affected? Does it vary across the day? How are your neighbours supplies? (My money is on a burst incoming supply pipe- on that topic, locate your meter box, flip the lid, see what the dial is doing)

Fit a threshold / Aco channel drain all along the porch and affected areas. Make sure it has somewhere to drain to that's effective.

Yeah, our BCO wanted a gap under the shelf that was covering it, to allow air in.

Nowt wrong with that. Use proper 110mm pipe brackets rather than builders band. For the boss from the shower, you'll find due to the depth of the trap and the position of the 110mm pipe, it'll probably be in a horizontal position, rather than vertical as you've described. Aim for a 1:40 or better fall in the soil pipe. Basin and shower pipes can be any angle (other than flat or backwards!) AAV is completely fine. As long as it's higher that the highest trap. You can box it in, but should be left accessible as they can sometimes stick and stop working. The building control documents are a really good guide for the do's and don'ts.

Good case for timber frame with block outer skin.

Get yourself to your nearest builders merchant.

No, different trade. We got the one company to do the lot but he just subcontracted the tape and jointing part. If I'd known that from the start

Caravan survived 90mph+ in 2021. That same night scaffold boards were lifted and went through the roof. Our entire "wing" with our master bedroom was noticeably swaying in the wind - 150mm reinforced concrete walls (now fully appreciate how flexible RC is!)

Three possible problems. Could be one, some or all. 1. Configuration. Something not right with a pump/valve/controller. Impossible to say from here 2. Airlock / blockage in a pipe somewhere. 3. HP is incapable of delivering the additional heat load. And another, almost certain, Your plumber could be out of thier depth.

Storm straps.

Would not recommend for office space. Metal box. No phone or WiFi. Get a container for storage, and a second hand touring caravan for office. We sold ours on two years later and only a £400 loss. Having a fridge and cooking area to yourself is invaluable on a muddy, cold wet site in he middle of winter. Ours had an awning so good for the summer and drying wet gear.

Is that an oil boiler? What is it's role?

SE, mainly because your design could be completely wrong and you'll be wasting a lot of time and energy. I'm an civil/ environmental engineer but not structural, and my preconceptions and design ideas were blown out of the water by what the actual SE came up with. And an SE isn't going to want on site welding.

Sounds like you'd be better off on a standard tariff and run ashp 24x7.