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Conor

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Everything posted by Conor

  1. Conor
    What's your water supply going to be then if there are no mains nearby? Borehole?
  2. Conor
    We didn't leave a service void on the walls, just chased out using a hot wire cutter as needed.
  3. Conor
    Slide a length of 180mm twinwall drain pipe over it and be done.
  4. Conor
    You can't pump surface water in to a drain unless you know where it's going and you have consent to do so. I think looking at your topography, high water table and soil, you'll have to learn to live with it. You've created a large, flat area with minimal vegetation, a bit of creative landscaping will do wonders.
  5. Conor
    I have the fall continuously away from the door I have a nominally 25mm gap between door block and the pacing / slab. It's just gathering crap at this stage so I think I'll fill it with silver sand. Ours is very sheltered, yet to see water on the door. Combo of North facing, deep reveals and deep roof soffit. I'm assuming dpc from all the way from under the door frame at the threshold down below the slab? That's what I have then another peice on the reveal at 150mm above FFL.
  6. Conor
    Plasterboard the lot.
  7. Conor
    Is the floor insualted in the porch? Can you measure the flow temps using a infrared thermometer?
  8. Conor
    Not an expert on the boards you are using but we used plasterboard. Just fitted as normal, we're taped and filled, the used a mapai tanking kit. You have to use tape on all the joins and corners. Floor to splash height all round. Then two coats of tanking paste. I left the tiler to do the alcove as I didn't have time... I don't think he did a good job as looks like the ply underneath is getting wet and swelling. Alcoves really important as you'll have water sitting their for hours.
  9. Conor
    Glad I've only done a shed roof and a balcony then 🤣
  10. Conor
    No need to insulate, you just use fewer loops from the other zones where the pipes pass through. You can use flexible 20mm electrical conduit for the first metre or so, just so that the room where the manifold is doesn't get too hot. How come GSHP over ASHP? Haven't heard of anybody here installing one recently at all.
  11. Conor
    ?? Any kit I've ever used has been a specific one layer chopped strand kit. I didn't know multi layer was a thing.
  12. Conor
    Just needs a good rub down with fine sandpaper and it'll be fine. Topcoat in theory protects against UV damage, otherwise aesthetic. Looks like a pretty good job btw.
  13. Conor
    What you're proposing to do is illegal under the 1980 and 2002 water industry acts. You'll need to apply for your own connection to SW, or drill a borehole.
  14. Conor
    For context, bathshack would have been the cheapest local company in the past. We used them before but not impressed with their quality/prices this time round. Soaks, Neptune, and all those other places in Boucher take the piss with the prices. Never considered Beggs.
  15. Conor
    We got ours from bathline (Haldane fisher). Good quality stuff and got the price way down from the first quote, something like 40% lower
  16. Conor
    Building control will most likely want to see a piece of paper showing that the ballustrade meets the loading requirements... So you might need to get the glass supplier to include these fixings as supply it as a "system" and confirm it meets the requirements.
  17. Conor
    Assuming this is freshly compacted soil, as the grass grows and nature does it's thing, water channels will develop through the soil profile and natural percolation will start.
  18. Conor
    For the ridge beam, our guys machined a length of C24 wall plate timber to the same angle as the roof, and fixed it to the top of the beam, then (in our cause) roof panels just screwed in to the timber. In your case the roof joists would be fixed in to the timber as well, joiner will know what to do.
  19. Conor
    Can the ridge beam be brought down so the rafters sit on top? Means no cold bridge at the ridge and a simpler fixing detail.
  20. Conor
    What other electrical appliances do you have that could maybe be faulty and consuming large amounts of electric? Tho with that consumption there would be a lot of waste heat generated and fairly noticeable in the summer. You could completely isolate your ashp and DHWC for 24hrs and monitor the house consumption.
  21. Conor
    I bloody love mine. If you build your house right, and don't scrape the bottom of the regs to pass U values, your house will be warm and cosy no matter how you heat it. We still haven't had our heating on this season yet. Our annual energy consumption is about a quarter of the national average for comparable size.
  22. Conor
    Who is your mortgage provider? We went with ecology and everything was completed in 6 weeks. 12 would be worst case, and assumes you've not got your documents etc together. If you and broker are on the ball, no reason why an application would take more than 8 weeks. You can start that all now, ask what the provider will require and start putting it together in a folder.
  23. Conor
    Actually, looking at the cosy, if you just set your ashp to avoid the evening peak, looks like a winner, esp as it sounds like, you run your ashp near continuously. Set your timers, weather comp and stats accordingly.
  24. Conor
    Are you able to just run the ashp on the low rate only? We're on economy 7 and do exactly that, 90% of the time. During a real cold snap we'll run it 24x7 on the days required. If your heat losses are high (sounds like a a big house) then you would be better off running 24x7 on weather comp, low flow temp and a the cheapest standard tariff that doesn't penalise you for daytime use.
  25. Conor
    If you are burying a waste pipe it has to be underground rated, and rod-able, I.e. 110mm brown PVC. Sorry, but there is no shortcut for this. It'll be a lot of work. The water supply is simpler, run the 15mm feeds inside some 25mm blue MDPE. You want at as much cover as you can get over the pipes.
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