Conor

I'd just put up a low level timber fence for a couple of years, your kids will soon wanting to be jumping and playing off it!

90% sure you'll just need an 8mm spanner for the screws.

Just make sure you've a good 100mm of stone over the pipe before using the whacker.

Insect mesh along the gap under the soffit.

As said, BC has nothing to do with planning. Normally, this is how it would work: BCO suggests / requires a change. You go to to your architect and ask them to make the changes to the drawings. Architect updates construction drawings but raises the point that this might require a new planning app At that point you decide what direction to take, assume speak to planning and they request a new application. Tell builder to pause, submit new planning drawings, await decision. Alternatively, you ignore BCO suggestion and proceed as designed. Clearly, a step has been missed. I'm assuming you've either not got an architect or they are not involved in the construction phase? You'll need to re-engage them. All you'll get here is wafflely opinions. The only thing BCO could have done that you can argue they didn't, is advise that any changes made may have impact on planning consent etc.

Off peak tarrif and time ASHP to heat water then. Sell excess solar during the day - if you have an export agreement with your electric supplier. For me, the off-peak rate and microgen export rate are the same, so I still prefer to load off peak, and let excess solar go to the grid.

Speak to your SE first, they will specify what they need, it's not in the architect's area of expertise. Mine just wanted four holes dug, and a visual inspection she did herself. Cost about £500,

Ours was based on the floor area, different rate per m² for each stage.

I'd check with SE. Even though the screw pipes take the bulk of the loading, the ground beam will still be designed to sit on firm ground, but over the drain you'll need to make sure there is no/minimal loading. Might mean a bit more steel, thicker concrete, or an additional screwpile closer. You really dont want an issue with a drain under your house

In that case you want to span over using concrete lintels or an RC beam.

Need more details. But insualtion and ventilation are the obvious solutions.

4. Move the drain. It's yours so may as well as you'll be digging the area up anyway.

You need to go back to your architect / planning consultant for advice as wholly depends on the wording and stipulations within the letter.

Rub down and spray with zinc primer first.

What are the planning conditions regarding the trees? Assume you have to fence off the root protection area? Digging out old stumps is not an issue. An extra cube of concrete. We made life simple by applying to remove all trees within the construction area and plant replacements in other parts of the site. But sounds like you've a tight site. Your site layout drawing would be usefu.

You need to bring the 110mm pipe up to the floor level with a 90⁰ long sweep rest bend. I section chamber on the outside where it connects to the main runn for rodding, rather than a rodding point on the inside.

Round posts or splits rammed in to the ground with PVC coated stock fencing. We did this to protect some steep falls / slopes and did the job well.

Parents just did this on their front door and side windows. Looks great and will last a good few years. We also did it on our last house.

We had this issue, BC insisted we raise the sill up two courses to get the min 150mm flashing... Of course that meant new window. We couldn't lower the roof. Luckily, all of this was spotted by my builder at a very early stage.

Very little in the way of documentation. Seems to be 90% warning text! BFT deimos pultelio priprogramavimas.pdf BFT_Deimos_AC_A600_EN_DE_IT_FR_SP_NL.pdf

You can get 15mm-30mm (adjusted with spacers, rather than screw type) paving pads, leaving you 40mm for standard concrete type flags. That's what I've used.

Ah, I'd assumed a wee bit off the ground. For what you want, you will need planning permission, a structural design and building control. Not randomers on the internet. Best of luck.

I did my brother's deck of similar size with 100mm posts. Spaced them at 1200mm. No issues.

I'd sooner keep the larger diameter and forgo the insulation on any tight sections rather than drop the diameter down.

Anybody? Maybe @dpmiller