Conor

That's about twice the price it would be from a local concrete supplier. You'll also need the biscuit and an entry lid. It's an easy way to build in attenuation, as you'd be digging and installing a chamber anyway. another way to do it is massively oversized pipework, or "S" pattern. Both would be more expensive than an off the shelf chamber. The way we did it was unusual, we put in a normal chamber, but was extra deep (outlet way above the base) and on top of stone. Acts as a combined soakaway and attenuation system. It'll eventually silt up unless cleaned every 5 years or so. We could only do this due to the whole area around the house being on imported stone (basement excavation).

We didn't go down to the gutter, but instead straight to a flat roof. I got a 300mm angled aluminium trim made up that went under the bottom tray and down on to the flat roof.

We've one of those. They're shite. Base is soft, ours was deformed and a pain to install. Barely any fall on it and if water goes past a certain point, it pools in the corner. Tiler did best he could.

Don't think of it as a "PV-ASHP system", but two entirely separate entities that do totally different things at different times. Then life will be simpler and happier.

Is it standard masking tape or decorating specific like frogtape? Some of the standard tapes are just too tacky.

Purpose of a power flush, rather than a simple drain down, is to lift material that has been deposited on pipe and other surfaces. E.g. metal fragments, corrosion deposits, biofilms etc. you can't tell much from looking at a bit of water drawn off the system. If you system is a few years old, or has been run without inhibitor, a power flush is a no-brainer.

They are correct. Except for extracting hobs.

Yes, in a conduit within the insulation.

Two options. Hire formwork that can be lined. Second. Hire a couple formwork joiners (a specific trade) and they will build your shuttering. Expect it to be an expensive endeavour. Full height for work like that can go horribly wrong and can be dangerous... I've done a lot of joinery and formwork, but don't have the balls for something like that.

+1 for Saxton, I get mine off Amazon. Gone through a fair number of Thier angle grinder discs as well, and recip blades

Depends on who owns the alley. You'll need to dog through the deeds and registry.

Have a look at gumtree etc, people are always getting rid of old bricks and rubble etc. won't cost you a penny. Might just need to do a few runs to collect. Rubble up to about 300mm. Make sure it's compacted before the skim of soil.

Yes, simple lip.on the back of the sill fits up and behind the bottom of the frame. Then all.sealed up.

windows are internorm, the sills were sourced by our window supplier, I think it's a company based in Dublin but I've no details as never dealt with them directly

1. Get rid of all the stats and run each floor as a zone. You might have spent money on wireless stats etc, but it's really not needed. A buffer won't really help, as you'll be spending more energy heating it up than the space, and you'll still get multiple short cycling issues. 2. Leak is likely to be a faulty relief valve or expansion vessel or anti freeze valve. 3. If the element is blown the circuit will be broken and you will see this as no power will be flowing. Regardless, your ASHP should be doing the heating so would look there first.

That's crazy. I assume 25mm MDPE service? What's the length?

Unless you are crossing a motorway, traffic management will be cheaper than a borehole. If you can post more details, e.g. their design / map that would be a help.

Get the scaffolders back for a day to clear those bays, hire a 15m telehandler to lift the glass up, and then get the scaffolders to reset. All done in a day.

This is what my engineer specified. It's VERY fluid. https://larsenbuildingproducts.com/product/multigrout-60/

That's what we did. Beam set in place, propped up, timber shuttering around the padstone and beam, non shrinking grout poured it. Great job but you have to basically make the shuttering fully watertight as it's very fluid.

Definitely go for a downdraft hob, no performance issues with mine. You then have the benefit of a clear space above your hob.

Home Bargains as well.

I'd leave it off, or at least any specifics, or else out might be held to build it as. You can built it any time in the future.

You'd be better off doing a walkover with an experienced builder and even architect and SE. A RICS survey has a set scope and format, and they'll all tell you the same thing. But you won't know really until you start digging and ripping things apart. Just assume worst case and budget accordingly.

What's stage are you at? Viewing, under offer, bought?