Conor

If you've moved in, and the building is habitable, then as far as LPS are concerned, it's a completed house. BC separate. They visited us in March just after we moved in, we didn't get BC signoff until July. They don't issue you anything and has no real impact other than you have to pay rates. Just be happy you're not in North Down 😂

I've done exactly this with my shipping container, used VP300 roofing underlay, for roof and sides to keep water off the external insulation.

Run two battens along the top, that's how we did it with our EPS roof panels.

Don't have it to hand but my GRP supplier supplied a silicone type stuff in tubes for movement areas. Used it where deck abutted steel and would be thermal movement. Stuck trim over the junctions and top coat over. No issues so far.

This is a question for your structural engineer, nobody else. Most likely OK, but you've no other way of knowing unless somebody does the calcs.

Any SE should be able to do the job, ICF is really just a form of concrete shuttering.

Most of the local suppliers I used delivered for free, or a nominal amount. Barley used my trailer, even.

Pm me the map and I'll see what could be found on site.

Topo survey won't locate a water pipe. Need to contact UE... Unlikely they'll help and you might need to do some trial pits. Worth have a Topo anyway. But do things in right order. Speak to an architect first, then think about ground investigations.

As side of reducing visibility at the junction, your LPA might view that area as public amenity space and not want you to close it off. There might be a bit of paper hidden somewhere that has restrictions on it. You won't know until you do it and somebody complains!

Dropped the whole lot down

Ours was on the first floor, but same principle, we shuttered off the area with timber. This meant a 100mm deep recess for the bath to sit in. Having the bath 100mm lower than then floor level makes it easier to get in and out of. Highly recommended.

I'm struggling to understand the context of this. Outdoors? Indoors but not water tight yet? OSB3 is moisture resistant and won't soak up water unless exposed directly to persistent liquid water.

Look at the annual running costs of these things, can be hurrendous. Some can cost twice as much as others. Work out the total cost over, say, 5 years. We got a hisense. Half the running cost of the others ones in the store.

No no no no no. Stick to the metal. It goes up so fast, perfectly level and straight, little wastage, great sound insulating properties.

Have you submitted your plans to BC and have they approved them? Ask them. We added a tiny ground floor WC when doing same type of project.

What's the context of this work? Unless it's a new build or major refurbishment, then you might not need to comply with part M. If you do, there's no way you are fitting that all in. The issue will be the clear spaces at the door and in front of the toilet.

God, those steel rakes are heavy and raking that stuff is tough. Hire a digger 🤪

Builders are not experts in planning matters. I've seen it so many times here were people have followed the advice of trades and ended up on the wrong side of planning / building control. Glad you came here before doing anything. Anyway, speak to planning, provide a sketch and photos and see if they'll advise. Unless there's previous permission for a structure over 1m, you'll likely need planning. On the plus side, planners dislike fences and like walls and hedges.

I'd switch your UVC to mains supply. I'm assuming the plumbing to washing machines, toilets etc is mostly copper and plastic? Then that level of acidity won't be an issue. I'm assuming you have this setup for reasons other than economic? Is the mains water particularly hard? I'm thinking that a pH treatment system, and it's maintenance etc will cost more than the additional ~100l a day to feed your hot water needs.

I highly doubt this. You doors will come with a good 25mm gap allowance that can be filled with foam. Internal doors are easily trimmed down.

I pulled or cut out the expansion strips then ground down and differences in height with a grinder. Didn't take long. How did they set the datum? We picked the most critical threshold height and set the level from there.

They should have a simple form that lists out types of fittings, and you simply put the wattage / amperage against each one and total it up. E.g lights 1kW, ovens, 7kW etc etc. ours came to something like 70amps with car charger.

Min distance should be no less than 3x the diameter of the hole, ideally 5x diameters. So 500-800mm ISH. How are you planning on making these openings? Hiring a core driller? 162mm will be tough work.

You'll need two. You want the fans running on allow speed 99% of the time. We're 350m² and have two units rated at 300mhr each.