Conor

If it's a self supporting shed, you just need a few pads for it to rest on. Id strip the area, put stones down, then set blocks / pavers at the points the shed instructions say they are needed. A concrete slab is a bit ott for a timber shed.

Don't use strap bands, use the proper plastic clips.

How deep is the chamber? Normally, cover pipe with fine gravel, a EPS plug goes just under the lid. More than enough.

No, one is fine. Can't have more than two.

Two. It's NIE requirement. We just fitted another two after all the connection works done and meter installed.

Once you allow for footings, rainware overhangs, construction access, wall thickness, you'll end up with a building about 1.5m or so wide. You'll never met building control regs for access etc. E.g. an accessible bathroom will be at least 1m wide and 1.5m long, and then you'll need space for a 900mm wide corridor to access all of the rooms, and then same again for stairs. Park a caravan in your drive. I'd love somebody to prove me wrong?

What's the full build up? Is the ply directly on top of the caberdek boards? I assume they are 22mm?

I'd be wanting an itemised quote. And I said in your other thread, no need for the Eddi.

Nope that'll fall over in a couple years. The mortar looks rather sandy. For below ground it needs to be 3:1.

Yeah, a close coupled toilet won't work. You'll struggle to get a modern toilet that'll fit there unless you build a false wall, to the depth of the existing 90⁰ bend, up to the height of the cistern.

Water logged spots don't rot, oxygen is needed, so they'll rot just above the ground. If you replace the soil with stones, they'll rot here instead as there will be air there. All the water is coming from below the retaining wall. It's a spring effect. The wall acts like a dam, water is forced under, then up out at the other side.

+1 No way this will be cost effective. You'll likely have to demolish the porch as it would not have been built to the right spec.

@CalvinHobbesthe microgen export tariff is pretty much the same as the economy 7 night tariff. So the cheapest way to heat water is to use the ASHP off peak. It'll be twice as cheap as using a solar diverter. I've my timed from 7-9am... on a sunny morning at this time of year I'm generating 1-2kW from the PV, so double saving. Plus you save the £200 or so for the upfront cost of an Eddi or other diverter.

It's 13lps which is easily what any correctly sized MVHR can achieve. We just ran double ducts to the vent.

Do you have a drainage plan you can share? You would have needed something for your BC submission. You'll need to run 110mm pipe though the slab, not 40/50mm pipes.

AHH. I used optimisers that made everything safe (1v per panel) until commissioned. Good point tho.

I did 90% of our install myself, spark did the connection from inverter to the consumer unit and provided the safety check paperwork. Fitting the panels and stringing them together is pretty simple stuff.

Welcome. Learning on the job (making it up as you go along) is all part of the fun.

Looked in to this. Sedum plugs are much cheaper than the mats. Just need to be a bit more patient and do more maintenance in the first year. I think green roofs are great when done right. Go for it.

Ours is steel frame, cut through insualtion and bolted to the ICF. Support columns and walls. It's not a cheap exercise at all. Ours is 2 x 12m, L shaped. The steel along was £3k. Timber deck another grand. GRP , £1k. Paving pedestal, pavers, glass ballistrading, another £8k. Supporting walls hard to cost up but another £2k. Mostly DIY except the walls. The reason we went with a fully tanked design was to create shelter in the main patio below. You could do it with softwood timber for about £3k. I'd allow £15k for yours if you want it to the same spec and to be professionally built. Not allowing for roof etc. that could double it.

The meter you get here is determined by the tariff you choose. Fyi, we're on economy 7 and save about £300 a year compared to standard tariff. You need to shift a good 50% of usage on to the night time to make it worth it.

3. Dependent on what SE wants. 7. Do this much sooner. Before demolition..apply as soon as you get planning. 8. Will require you to have walls built etc. put ducting in early tho as part of ground works.

Just say economy 7 import / export meter. I think they are the same anyway.

Well, wood flooring or tiles are a lot more expensive than carpet (£50m² Vs £20m²), then the VAT argument is moot.

If they are tilt and turn (inward opening) then the answer is no. Can't speak for casement. I've come up with my own high tech solution....a white doorstop screwed to the window board to stop the window opening more than the depth of the reveal 🤣 In an emergency, easy to force open.