Conor

Water companies will, by default, say no. As dealing with these kind of things is a PITA. You'll have just talk and badger them. A good design will see you through. Last thing you want is to divert, a good build over design is the only approach

Depends how much you want to spend then. I've never had any issues with any IKEA pans. Tho my stellar pots are about 5x the cost but still worth it. I think they and and procook will be with me for life.

I've used the same fitting on an old lead pipe. They shouldn't leak at all. Is everything straight? How did you tighten it? I find hand tight often isn't enough for those (years of experience installing meter boxes.)

Well done, push on.

Don't know what the means but I believe you.

The ones you have in your cupboard. I had to get rid of virtually all my pans when we moved. Now I'm down to three stellar pans, a nonstick IKEA pot, IKEA frying pan, a procook large frying pan, and a couple cast iron things. They all work the same. Tbh I do not miss my extensive copper pan collection at all. After all, what's the point in having 10+ pans when you realistically only use 3 or 4 at the most?

Tile first but skirting before carpet. The difference will only be a few mm, so as above can easily rip off a strip off the boards or plane then down. Just let your joiner know in advance what is expected

The only scratches on my hob come from ONE cooking session with a £180 le crueset pan. Enameled cast iron is not a friend to glass.

The main factor is how flat the bottom of the pan is. Some warp when heated too high, and become useless. We had a Tefal wok that was useless from new as the base was slightly concave. My £10 IKEA frying pan cooks as well as my £90 procook pan. Anecdotally, I've found that a lighter pan will simmer at a lower setting than a heavy pan of the same size (I slow cook a lot on my hob, SS pan will bubble gently on 2, while my cast iron pot will need to be at 3 for same simmer). No idea why a heavy pan would radiate more heat away than a light pan, if that's even the case. (Otherwise, I highly recommend most of Procook's products)

All the big concrete firms usually have a liquid screed division. It's not as skilled as sand and cement screeding, all the money is in the equipment, and loads of them do it.

We paid £17m² for 50mm cemfloor two years ago, I'm sure it's in the £20s now. Still, way cheaper than the OPs original proposal.

Keep your windows open

We had a room like that in our last house. Think we used either extra thick underlay or double underlay. Never noticed it. You could use a bit of filler on the low sides then sand down to take the edge off.

Why are you doing it that way? I'm assuming it's PIR insualtion on top of a concrete slab? Pumped liquid screed would be around £2k.

If the house is not finished and fully dried up, many surfaces will have condensation. Don't panic until everything is heated up and dried out. We've 5 internorm doors and no issues like that at all.

Yeah, we claimed paving and other bits. We just included a letter explaining the reasons. No issues with any of them.

Window frame packers. I've a big bag from Screwfix. soooo handy for a range of jobs.

I wouldn't bother clearing anything until you start building. A digger will clear as much in 30mins as you would have done with hand tools in a day. Don't think that applies in this case, would be going straight for full planning.

Don't know why you'd need 11kW for a 200l tank, in reality you never fully empty a tank to ice cold and reheat to full temp. Just set hot water on 24hrs and the lower setpoint to 35c. We've never had issues with our 9kW heating our 300l tank.

Reolink WiFi wires in directly with a doorbell chime from the transformer. I didn't bother and used the plugin one provided as can put it in a better location. I'm not sure about the LAN version but not sure why you'd want it over the WiFi if you've a doorbell chime and power supply in place.

Not a chance. Block on flat as a minimum.

make sure access is all sorted and safe. keep a very close eye on them and dont let them leave until you are happy. Good to have your main builder on site. We had ot get our installers back multiple times. Last issue was resolved a couple weeks ago - three years later!!!

You might be better off with a con saw and cutting out a pit or three. Also, you'll most likely also need to dig pits at various points at the edges of the slab. What has your SE requested?

TLA has twice the thermal conductivity of PIR. Much better off with 150mm PIR. Price comes in about the same once you account for labour for the PIR. Still need 50mm liquid screed for both.

Can't remember. Renderer supplied everything. The part acrylic part silicone one. Bright white, thin coat, smooth finish.