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low_and_there

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  1. Ah ok, I actually thought it had to flow in vertically but if it can work horizontally then I should be able to add the fixture there. it would work on the far right side but the existing hose won’t reach that far - I imagine that there’s a possibility to extend the hose? Really appreciate your help @joe90
  2. thanks @joe90. trouble is that the part on the left is too close to the underside of the sink bowl to allow for an attachment like that to be added. Can I add an extender piece to take it out beyond the sink bowl do you think? Thanks!
  3. Hello folks, would appreciate advice on how we can connect our dishwasher outflow pipe into the drain under the sink (photo added). The washing machine empties into a stand pipe. I’ve previously added a dishwasher into a spigot under a sink but this pipework here hasn’t got one and I can’t see how to add one.. I’d like to avoid buying a whole new under sink set there as this set up is only for about six months while we wait for planning permission to extend. thanks in advance!
  4. Excellent, thanks for the steer @Nickfromwales. In terms of installing it, I put that up on the studs first, then the SoundBloc on top - is that right? Do I want the rubber to be sealed at the perimeter and at joins in the sheet as well? thanks (a thanks for now and a thanks for every time my kids watch loud movies while I’m working late in the room next door!)
  5. I can’t (or rather don’t want to!) rebuild the studs, but what if I alternate the verticals and/or horizontals that I secure the SoundBloc on each side to..? They’re at 400mm centres horizontally, 600mm vertical.
  6. This looks to be a brilliant idea - adding to my list for when we come to install the new pipework, thanks for sharing the photos @Nickfromwales
  7. We've got a 100mm timber stud in an aperture between the front and rear reception rooms (it's about 80% of the wall - the rest is solid brick), and as part of wider works, the plasterboard is off (on one side), the floor is up, it's all bare bones, and I have the opportunity to improve the acoustic insulation / sound absorption it provides. One of the things I'm trying to figure out is whether to rip off the remaining plasterboard on the other side to replace with SoundBloc. We've not got particularly loud noises to absorb, just TV noise / music from front to back rooms, so I don't believe it's necessary to go down the Resilient Bars route. Any thoughts on how you would tackle this? Current thinking: a) wool insulation between studs (100mm gives 40db reduction, or so the technical spec claims) - personal preference not to use mineral wool b) 15mm Gyproc SoundBloc boards either side - apparently a density of 840kg/m3 c) Isolation strip (like 'karma') under the skirtings along either side of the wall (but could / should I use it elsewhere?) What else? Is it worth using any 'acoustic' sealant on the edges for example? Or what about a 12.5mm SoundBloc, combined with something like 6mm Ply (I've got the depth to do this on one side) - I've read that different materials layered can be better than thicker of the same material - is it worth it / necessary in this context do you think? Thanks! --- Bit more detail on the context: - Stud wall is standalone and does not sit on joists (joists stop short of the stud on either side, resting on sleeper walls) - I've made sure the electrical sockets are not back-to-back and have placed acoustic putty pads in the socket boxes - new OSB structural deck aligns to the end of the joists, so is 'decoupled' from the wall - will ensure rest of floor construction is also kept apart (UFH in 35mm biscuit mix dry screed 8:1 sand:cement) and 15mm engineered wood boards) - we've got wool insulation under floor (200mm) which I'm thinking may dampen impact noise - The stud was originally built above the original floorboards (there would have been doors between the rooms when the house was built), and is actually only secured to the side and upper walls; the base plate is currently floating 100mm above a brick sleeper wall - as I do not want to rebuild the stud I'm planning to wedge noggins under the base plate to give it something to rest on when laden with weight. - I'll put 100mm wool under the base plate of the stud between noggins (which I've staggered from joists)
  8. good point @SteamyTea, I recall reading something like 10 degrees is needed. For the projections, I just inserted the roof slopes angles, but I'll see what happens when I increase it to account for that. And thanks @Ronski - have you got any experience / heard anything about these systems in use?
  9. Thanks again for the explanations @Gus Potter, super helpful! Based on this thread, I'm now thinking: 1) For the existing roof where we're (hopefully) not re-tiling, we'll go over the existing tiles - if we have to re-tile the roof then the in-roof trays are an option. 2) For the two new flat roofs we're creating, we need to factor in the additional weight considerations of the trays, ballasts and panels, along with the various loading scenarios that you outlined in your earlier post - that is the simplest and safest way rather than building in any frames or any screwing into the roof that could compromise weather tightness. 3) For the new pitched roof we're creating, we could go for in-roof trays so long as we ensure decent ventilation behind them.
  10. Thanks for your notes @Gus Potter, appreciate the breakdown of things to think about in terms of weight. In terms of the lightweight trays you refer to, are these something like the "GSE" trays that @JohnMo mentions? Are there any such items for flat roofs you could point me in the direction of?
  11. hi @SteamyTea I had looked at that simulator previously and noted it was lower, but still thought it may be worthwhile. I've just re-run the numbers, and pasted them below for review. Whaddya think? Roof Type PVGIC Azimuth angle Roof slope Yearly PV energy production [kWh] - based on 1kWp per elevation % of the 'optimum' angle Front Roof Pitched -45 (SW) 35 degrees 1,061 93.34% Main Dormer Flat -90 (W) 3 degrees 956 84.05% Rear Dormer Flat 0 (S) 3 degrees 985 86.61% Kitchen rear Pitched 135 (NW) 35 degrees 702 61.72%
  12. Hi all, I’ve done a bit of googling and forum searching on this topic and come up short, so hoping you can help us: we want to understand how best to factor in Solar PV to the design of our loft extension (mid-terrace house c.1905) Subject to planning, the aim is to have one dormer on the rear roof slope and another on the outrigger roof; facing NW and W respectively. We’ve been advised we could get 6 panels for the main dormer and 3 on the rear. We will also seek permission to put one on the front elevation (all we can fit because of Velux and a gable), which gets the morning sun (SE facing). We also have a tiny little strip of pitched roof to play with at the very rear, NW again and totally unshaded, which could host three smaller panels (200w). I’ve so far had one person come to take a look, and when I asked about how we best plan this into the design of the dormers, they just said they’d use trays with ballasts for the flat roofs and mount the smaller panels atop the new roof at the rear, so no need to consider it in the design. I find this a bit odd - presumably there is a flat roof material that makes more sense when fitting PV, or a way to build a frame for PV into the new roof during construction, and weight considerations we ought to plan for? I had thought about in-roof for the rear (a small pitched strip), to avoid paying for new roofing tiles, only to have them covered up by solar panels… I’ve been told in-roof is a bad idea as the panels need ventilation. But isn’t there anyway supposed to be a ventilated gap between the roof and the internal felting/insulation etc? Also wonder about the angle - we could angle the roofs more (3 degrees is current design) to slope more towards the ideal pitch - but maybe this complicates the build and the trays with ballasts are just as good? Suggestions appreciated.
  13. Our house is solid brick except for a couple of sections of the front wall to either side of the square bay window, where there is a 2-deep solid brick wall, then a small cavity of about 45mm, then another wall of brick to the inside face. One person I showed this to suggested that I fill it with some loose fill (breathable) insulation. It's probably doable, but would be a bit tricky to do. The only reason I saw it is because a single brick has come out there. Would you put insulation in, or leave it as air? I'll post a pic in a mo.
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