Conor

100mm won't be enough. You'll need to add 50mm under the PB. As ever, what did the drawings show and did the builder follow them?

You need to do this now, as you might not be able to add shutters / shades without putting in a new application as it's unlikely to be a non material change. Also your initial SAP. That amount of glazing could be a fail for overall fabric heat loss. I'd go back to the planners and say you are going to address the comments and come back with an amended design. We needed a 6x2m brise soleil that was contentious with the planners and needed some other design changes to accommodate.

You've way too much glazing mate.

Straight on, once it's fully dried.

This is our master bedroom. We put in a ceiling 200mm below the ridge beam to allow for services. Still gives us 3m ceilings.

If this is purely for storage reasons, a shed would be cheaper and more practical. We love our high ceiling and would hate the idea of them being so low.

Wouldn't even bother with that. Mine are coiled and taped up. In all fairness, I never go in to that room so don't mind the mess.

I can highly recommend the "source yourself", and "supervise competent trades" model of ASHP installation. Fyi 9kW heat pump in 275m² net house, with open areas and vaulted areas. No bother.

One for @nod but I'd expect you'll need to mechanically fix a suitable substrate first, e.g. cement based render board. Aluminium will have different thermal expansion properties to most render systems I'd expect.

A year ago I would have said not to bother with 3 phase. We're probably going to get a second EV within the year and I'm already struggling to see how ill be able to charge both on low rate at the same time. But good point by @markocosic, older EVs tend only to have 3.6kW charging (like our leaf) and newer ones are rarely more than 7.2.

If you have no use/plan for them at the minute, save money and just cover them over. Don't be spending more on networking kit if it's not needed. If you have a slow 4g internet connection, a high speed wired network is a bit redundant tbh.

That text refers only to the water main in the ground. Nothing to do within the building.

Only needs guarding if it's adjacent an access route. Check with BCO. Was the wall and drop notes on the submitted drawings? If they were, and approved, then should not be needed. But only one person knows!

Pretty sure Screwfix sell a SLC for <10mm depth. Couple bags should do it. Follow the instructions and vacuum and dampen the concrete first.

Only needs to be above the highest trap, no need to put in the loft. We have ours on a branch in the airing cupboard behind the bathroom. Full 110mm one but our ES and kitchen both have 40mm ones in the cupboards below.

That's what our were. Steel beam, PIR, glued on. ICR ours were £900 for a 5m x 200mm length, plus two ~150mm L pieces for a couple corner posts. Same company that did the cills so colour match is perfect.

Sleeve it with a slightly smaller diameter pipe.

That's a spandrel panel. Our window company sourced them for us from a aluminium sill manufacturer, so everything would match.

If there was no window, I'd move the sink to beside the dishwasher. Other than that, move dishwasher as others have said. For the quooker stuff, I just cut out most of the base of our unit so the bottle sits on the ground. All fits in well.

Your builder is talking shite.

Why aren't you putting UFH upstairs? Any yes, 12kW is way too big. You'd get away with a 5kW. The pH standard requirement of 10W/m² heating remittance means (if you meet the standard) is a max heating output of 1.8kW. of course, you want a good buffer for this to account for suboptimal COP, and for faster hot water, so a 5kW would be perfect.

None of ours have them. And yes, had that before at our last house, any colour as long as it's black.

Depends entirely on what loading will go in to the loft. Also, definitely want stilts to avoid compressing the insulation.

Our BCO didn't care about second fix electrics, as long as cables either isolated or terminated..so fire on and get first fix done and do the minimum second fix as you need. Obviously your interconnected smoke alarms have to be working throughout.

Is the screed fully dried out? Have you tried simple watered down PVA? You'll need to do something with edges / expansion points. We've left our basement as bare cemfloor, and it's crumbling and cracking at door thresholds etc where it meets the foam perimeter.