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Lift span

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Lift span last won the day on May 28

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    Up North, now West Sussex

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  1. I hadn't thought about doing the outer in thermolite. I'm doing a sand and cement render on the outside and assumed the lightweight blocks wouldn't work but it seems you can! Yes, so certainly above DPC but I may well do below that thanks.
  2. Apparently, timber in the cavity is a no go so the answer is to use the structural foam instead. I'm thinking I should still have 4x2 timber on the face of the steel as shown below. Anyone done this? Same for the header:
  3. Also, what about the side jambs? In the video they just return the blockwork to close the cavity whilst in the detail below they use compacfoam: I have a vertical steel so I was thinking of just using a 50x200 timber fixed to the steel, with DPC against the outer blockwork. I asked the manufacturer if they would fix into timber and they said yes. Any thoughts?
  4. Looks like a great product thanks. I've had a search but I can't see if that can be screwed into?
  5. Thanks for the reply Russell. Here is a video from one manufacturer (same as in the detail pictures above). In the video they show fixing in the bottom:
  6. Thanks Temp. They want a concrete fill in the cavity because I think they fix into that. I'm thinking all insulation is redundant in those pictures apart from that perimeter insulation and the insulation below the screed (aluminium track).
  7. Yes, it's a cavity wall, to be filled with lean mix. Here is another view with the external wall removed (it's on sloping ground hence the design).
  8. Thanks for the reply That bit of compactfoam looks redundant to me. If I just fill the cavity with concrete, how do I stop/avoid thermal bridging?
  9. I've looked at previous threads and the answer seems to be use Compacfoam. However, I'm not building a Passive House and I'm looking at alternatives, The steel sway frame is shown below: I've shown the block and beam almost spanning the cavity. Then I thought of using thermalite coarsing blocks along the floor to get the correct level. Then adding timber on the vertical reveals fixed to the steel as a cavity closer (with vertical DPC). Would that work?
  10. Hello, I'm self building an extension and I'd like help! First question: How do a get a level threshold and avoid thermal bridging with triple track sliding doors on a block and beam floor with a steel sway frame? A manufacturer has sent me this: But, none of those details match my own. I have Building Regs Approval (with Engineers calcs done) to build this: I've started "building" it in Sketchup:
  11. Time for an update! Here is how it looks now. Just the lower wall to finish off on the left hand side. Apart from the roof tiling, all DIY by myself and the Mrs. Before:
  12. @Bitpipe Some progress. We are having the new Slate tiles done next week. We are about to press go on the window order. However, we drove past a house with light grey windows. We love it! Do you have any pictures of your place with the Basalt grey.
  13. Hi, I had to get planning permission for our front extension as it was beyond the front building line. The planning officer suggested squaring off the existing bay window ... good idea said I! However, that was amendment to the existing approved application so I had to pay £35 to get this amendment through. Things work very slowly in the planning world. I had no idea a minor amendment could take two months to pass; and it was his idea! Now with 18mm ply (heavy!) added: Thanks Mr Punter! I did wonder about adding more resin fixings at the brackets. I’ve only gone into the outer skin with with existing fixings. However, my main concern has been the turning moment from the whole structure pulling the whole wall away from the house. I’ve mitigated this by fixing the upper part of the frame to the roof rafters. I’ve added extra 4x2 timbers to make a triangle with the hypotenuse formed by the rafters. It seems pretty solid ...I’ve been hanging off it most of the afternoon!
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