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Lift span

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Lift span last won the day on May 28 2022

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  1. Does anyone have any photos of the build process with an MF frame? I’m just looking to do this now. Thanks
  2. I left a 10mm gap at the end of the beams to stuff a bit of foam down but I doubt it will do much good! I wish I was insulating externally but I'm not. To be honest, on my next project I'm knocking whatever it is down and starting again otherwise everything is a compromise!
  3. The wall cavities are 100mm with full fill rock wool. I'm doing internal PIR on the walls as well. For the threshold I bridged the cavity with the beam and block (with a dense block). The gap you see below I'm going to fill with insulation/concrete. Then put either 50mm deep x 250mm wide of Compacfoam/ Bosig Phonotherm/Thermalite (I haven't decided how yet) on top. The triple track will sit on that but set back from the front to end up close to the back edge. At least that's todays plan!
  4. Yes, it's expensive. I'm wondering if I should just cut some aircrete blocks down and use them as the 50mm lift I need instead. A lot cheaper!
  5. Just to resurrect this, another solution for thermal bridging at the threshold and jambs maybe Bosig Phonotherm 200. Seems similar in performance to compacfoam. Compressive strength is 7 N/mm2 so similar to high strength aerated blocks. I've not used it though!
  6. They can fix into the compacfoam. They've been around and surveyed it already. It's solid stuff!
  7. Just to update this, I went with the Compacfoam in the end. In the jambs and overhead (see picture below). I've wrapped DPC around the jambs so you can't see it! I'm now deciding what to use under the threshold to sit the doors on. I was thinking of compacfoam again but I found out about Bosig Phonotherm 200. Has anyone used it? It seems similar to compacfoam but it's available in bigger wider sheets:
  8. Thanks nod and Temp. I'm in no rush so would appreciate the pictures. Thanks again.
  9. What's the best way of finishing off this lead detail? I've done a lean to extension with a slate roof and fitted the lead flashing. Youtube as failed me though as I can't find a way of finishing the lead at the end: Do I cut it, bash it, wrap it? Any ideas?
  10. I'm just looking at this myself. The only written guidance I can see is the NHBC you mention. I've seen Robin Clevett use 100x47mm on some of his videos. I'm bolting my wall plate to steel so I don't have the blockwork strength issue Iceverge mentions, but I take the point on pull out strength.
  11. Thanks. Did you fix into steel, block or timber at the jambs?
  12. This seems to be a recurring problem for which there is no optimum solution, that I've found anyway. Especially, if you are trying to avoid cold bridging. One solution would be to infill your cavity with concrete and block (in your last picture) and then fix Compacfoam on top. That comes in various depths including 50mm which is close to your 47mm. There is a discussion here: http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16054
  13. I'd not thought of fixing clips! Maybe that is an option. The window supplier is saying they need fixings straight through the frame though.
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