Conor

There are various options, structural insulation, lightweight blocks, insulation upstands etc. Should be something your architect / PH designer can specify and update drawings accordingly.

You 100% want to remove the facia etc and run the GRP / trims up and under their roof felt.

Ask your broker to search for lenders on a 3 year new build with now warranty. Ours searched to find lenders that didn't require a warranty. Weren't that many, but from memory Virgin didn't require one. We went with Bank of Ireland.

Hi. Electrics is not my forte. I've a mate coming round on Thursday to help me wire it all up. I've a Deimos AC 600 unit that came with the gates (Czech brand). I've all the ducting in place, ready to pull cables. First question, what type of cables do I need? I have Screwfix, B&Q and CEF locally. 1.5mm 3 core? 0.75mm 2 core? Coax? Or 5 core 0.75mm for everything but the AC supply/Coax? the 3core 1.5mm is the 240v AC supply. Everything else is 24v. I assume for the 2x1.5mm on the drawing I just use a three core and leave one wire off? The section of 5x0.75mm doesn't make sense to me. Second. Where do I get Black/Blue/Brown/Red cable from? Is Blue/Brown/Earth OK instead?

yes, really worth it. Don't suppose if you know if they left a benchmark anywhere? Should be noted on the drawing. Usually a nail in a hard surface or a peg in soft. Handy for future setting out and a handy reference point.

It should be relatively easy to unclip the pipes, put 50mm insulation down, clip them down again, then lay the remaining insulation. It's minutes of work. They just want to get the job done and be gone.

No way you're getting this done with a normal hammer drill. What diameter is the pipe? If it's 32mm, you'll want a bigger hole. Hire a core drill and appropriate sized bit for the weekend.

Doubt it. Just pull through a couple more cables through your duct when installing the EV charger and install an external socket where needed.

Don't be speaking to the roofers. It's the responsibility of your neighbour to ensure work is done correctly. There is no way re-slating with composite slates falls under permitted development. Say this to your neighbour that not only is the work not good enough, but that they are likely not compliant with planning or building control. Give them the opportunity to set it right. High chance the roof will need to be completely redone with natural slates... Gonna cost them a lot so tread gently

Don't suppose you are in a conservation area or other historic protection area? I'd say local planning authority might have something to say about ripping off 150year old slates and replacing with composite. What happened to the slates they removed?

Pay the deposit when they show on site.

We didn't get a warranty, tho the basement tanking, flat roof and actual roof structure have their own manufacturers warranties. And we were able to get a mortgage OK with and no warranty or other documentation. Just very few lenders on the market have lax criteria like that. Three in fact.

I had this issue on our balcony but our SE said no way to trimming. Had to double batten under the rafters to hide the offending bolts.

Could stuff the void above the tank with a bit of mineral wool insualtion.

Couple coats of whitewash. It's what my brother in law uses for his glasshouses and tunnels during the summer in his horticultural business. Rain eventually washes it off.

We have the same blinds. Have the slight issue where they sit out a few mm. It's all because modern PVC windows have a thinner profile than old school ones, which is what they seem to have designed their products around.

Good call ditching the membrane, it's basically a silt trap and causing the mud to build up.

It's fine. It's not as good as direct fitted or 2mm foam, but we've certainly not had any issues heating or cooling any spaces. Yes, cut back the excess insulation.

Laminate on 5mm wood fibre underlay would be your best best. Toughness of laminate and the wood fibre is very forgiving on an uneven floor and adds a bit of softness. We have it thought out our ground floor and it's great.

Stick the cable in now regardless, very little cost, and means when you need a charger in the future, it'll be an easy install.

Do the calculations on this. What tariff are you on? How much hot water do you use? Can you get paid for exporting? How much money will you actually save Vs heating off peak using the heat pump? In my case, does not make economic sense to use a diverter.

Pretty much all you need to know. Welsh will be 5x more expensive than good quality Spanish. Either will outlive you.

Those supports are for the floor structure and aren't meant to be on the ground. You want just a few points of contact. All you need is half a dozen 400x400mm pavers from B&Q, or plastic crates as others have said.

Raise up on small paving slabs. You need airflow under the floor.

Is 600x760mm the dimensions of the shaft or the biscuit on top? The biscuit should be 600x600. It would be highly unusual that a standard 600x600 lid would not fit on a public manhole. On that topic... The water company own the asset (assuming that's what you mean) and you have no right to touch it, and would need their permission in theory. Up to you how you proceed. Same also applies to paving over the pipe.