Conor

What do you mean by private drain? Do you know where it starts and what it's connected to? If it's a shared surface water drain, then it's public, and usual policies of the owner will apply. Usually a draconian 3-4m buffer.

Don't see the point in the Eddi if you have batteries and an ASHP. The microgen export tariff is the same as the economy 7 night rate, so never makes sense to heat water with the immersion, no matter where the electric comes from. Why not a 7kW inverter commissioned at 3.78kW if a G99 application is unsuccessful? You'll miss out a huge amount of generation (therefore money) during the summer.

We went with an external self adhesive bituminous membrane system on top of our ICF. We do have one corner of damp, reason for this tbc.

I wouldn't bother with a table saw, get a plunge / track saw instead. I've a Makita cordless circular saw, very few jobs it can't do. The table saw is rarely used. Used it last week for the first time in a couple years as I had 90 fence boards to rip.

Foam glass would be a popular option in this scenario.

You'll do well to get less than £4k. We have a internorm AT400 door with the exact spec as above and it came in at about £4k with a 600mm sidelight. It's an awesome door. In a cold winter spell frost forms on the outside of the door while it's 20c inside the house.

Need to add snow loading as well and live load for maintenance. When I researched green roofs, figure I saw most commonly to allow was 1kN in addition to the roof deck. That's obviously worse case but that's what you should design for. If you double up every other joist and glue and screw, I'm sure you'll bring it to 1.5kN/m² which would be standard.

Is it all per the SEs drawings / spec?

^^^ yeah, tile over it.

180 or 200mm concrete screws. You'll need an SDS drill with a 6x250mm bit and a decent impact driver for driving the 7.5mm screws in. Also get a bag of window packers so you can everything nicely straightened out.

Find a plasterer first whose experienced with thin coat render systems and take it from there. Ours preferred to use Sto, so we went with that, are are happy with it. He's crossmaglen based and travels.

No, you can rod downstream aswell with a pulling action with one of the flip scrapers.

I got a cheap one off Amazon. Wasn't great and died before the end of the job. Small money in the grand scheme of things really.

Better to let them supply and fit everything at 0 rated vat.

Only person than can answer this correctly is your structural engineer. We came across a well, right along the edge of the foundations. Call to SE. Said to fill with lean mix concrete, she then designed a ground beam to span over. I would not let your demolition contractor tell you what to do. They are, after all, experts at making things fall over, not stand up.

Not bad. Few points Ditch the open fire. Not even sure its possible to pass new regs with one. Not nearly enough storage in/near the kitchen. The basement stair design means you're almost doubling the amount of retaining wall, thermally less efficient, tanking is more complex and more excavation required. Huge waste of money. A suggestion would be to rotate the stairs 90degrees and make the basement a bit deeper. We were in the same situation with a site that dropped 1.5m from front to back. We ended up making a full basement as it was more cost effective than a partial excavation. Construction cost was something like an extra £15k for an additional 50m2 of space. This was because you've got a lot of fixed / mobilisation costs, and the process of foundations etc becomes simpler. Need to look at these things holistically and start speaking to an SE now to see how the architect's designs translate to construction practicalities and costs.

What do you mean by bespoke? What bond are you going for?

Ah, lots of fun. Brings back memories. Normally you'd whack all the way round with a lump or sledge hammer, but in that case you crack the concrete. Have you tried to clear out the gap between the frame and lid? Will take a bit of time and persuasion. If all else fails, one of these will lift it. https://lifting365.com/products/hydraulic-manhole-cover-lifter-with-spreader-bars-mustang?variant=40497179132070&currency=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWYZk67PI3RO3Qf3DVGw91nh1oSYqWchEBWoXzQeJlIt2eI_IIxdE3saAq-nEALw_wcB

How many bricks and what size? What type of brick? Down the middle, across? Will the cuts be on a face? Lots of variables. Photos would help

It'll be the timbers warming up, expanding, and moving. My parents house is an old timber frame and creaks like an old ship when the sun comes out

The cost of drainage / tanking / extra concrete / pumps etc will cost way more than you'll ever get from a handful of solar panels. Make it 2.5m above the highest ground level with a flat roof.

As Dave says, 4x2s, supported every 1.2m or so with bits of block /pavers.

Need to understand what's causing the damp.

I think the issue here is the upstands.... Or lack of. You really want the tanking and thresholds a good 200mm above the tanked surface. Or the door /cladding thresholds. Where does water go if it teachers the threshold at the door?

I've a few bags of leftover ducting clips if anybody wants them 🤣