Declan52

Tracking back and forth over them with that big digger will be more than enough to drive them into the ground.

Hats off that is amazing looking.

Just don't take to much amber nectar and get carried away and end up with this. Was this your first tile job @Nickfromwales

Welcome. I'm North Armagh so not much use but @DeeJunFan is building just outside Newry in mayobridge so would have a better idea of what merchants would be the best to visit. You might be better off with a transit van and trailer and save yourself the delivery fees. Just get the bulk goods delivered. 45 mins takes you to the airport roundabout from newry so pretty close. The good thing about south Armagh is there are lots of border crossings in the event of a hard border.

Use a masonry nail with a washer like these https://www.raygrahams.com/products/116112-washered-head-masonry-nails-35-x-30mm.aspx

You could combine both. By sourcing out the main frame you should negate most of the risk. But as with everything sometimes stuff goes pear shaped so even though it is less risky you will still need to be on site during certain points to check that things are ready to go, being done right and end up the way you want. Once the frame is up you could buy your caravan, probably better spending a few extra quid for a decent one, and then you will be on site everyday to manage all that needs to be done. All that dead rental money will certainly come in handy.

Rather you than me cut all that pir!!!

Fully fill the joists with Rockwool and then overlay with OSB and 100/150mm of pir then whatever covering is being proposed.

Would it not be nicer looking if the joists where in the web of a steel beam on each side so you end up with a totally flat ceiling.

Can you not get a price for erecting the complete frame from the timber frame supplier. They will know what they are doing and the guys doing it will be a well oiled machine. You already have a price for the frame so take these away and that's your price for all the rest. Going by your floor plan the only tricky but will be the right hand side where it sits at 45 degrees. Everything else if your going for roof truss will be just a matter of swinging the truss in and nailing them home. If the joiners you have lined up are taking 4hrs to do a velux then they ain't the guys who should be any where near your site. The concept that you will get better work or cheaper work from mates is pie in the sky most of the time. It's usually them that you end up doing the running round after.

On the bottom price why have you Rockwool type insulation going over the stud work. In between is fine but you will need the 50mm type pir that you have on the top price.

When you say pvc do you mean a vinyl wrapped door. You can get paint specifically for these but it's not cheap or easy to do. As above I would clean the kitchen up as cheap as possible.

Anything over a 150mm wall won't need any piers so that's your starting point. Price up standard 150mm block and 75mm insulation between the stud and 50mm over the studwork. Then price up the thermalites with 75mm and 25/30mm and see what suits the wallet best. How are you finishing the outside. Sand cement and painted white or something like krend to give the white look.

Our film was on for over a year and was a nightmare to remove. Used everything from white spirits to watered down brick acid and there are still a few tiny spots where the adhesive is still there.

In another post his building control guy is looking the foundations 1m deep so to hopefully prove it doesn't need to go this deep he could get the SE to put on paper that 400mm/500mm should be enough so save a few quid.

If you build the blocks on their flat it's the same amount of blocks you would use if was a cavity build. If you built it from blocks that where 150*100*215 laid to give you a 150mm wide wall then it won't need any piers for strength. As for dampness it will be plastered up so shouldn't let any water through. You add waterproofing to the mix. It's cheap and easy to do. Being realistic are you able to work with timber to either build the frame yourself or erect it yourself. Be honest!! If not then use your Brickie mate to build the walls.

You will need more insulation than 50mm if you want if nice and warm. 150mm is what you should be looking at.

I would put the foundations in to suit a 2 storey build. It wouldn't take much to lift the roof of and build up if the need arises later on. Who knows what you/your kids will need/want in 25 years time. It won't be that much extra concrete but will cover you for any future change. The cheapest build will be block with a sand cement render painted white. Insulated plasterboard on the inside with the walls parge coated before it goes on. Not sure a single block will be strong enough how about a 150mm wide wall. How flexible are you with regards the windows and doors. Do they have to match the house or can you search gumtree/reclamation yards for bargains.

It's very misleading. From the title it says the guy caused £4m worth of damage but unless every house is leveled and nothing saved it will not be this amount. Another news report had it round the £500k mark in repairs.

Bet when he had his hands on the levers swinging the boom about he was the happiest man in the world. Being from Romania it's not like they can come after him for his assets.

I'm 20 and it says my shower head etc won't block up with limescale. Not true it needs done every 4 months so something ain't right!!

I wouldn't put it on neat. Would go 50/50 with water and see how that goes. If that doesn't shift it then increase the acid dose bit by bit. I would put a few planks with some polythene nailed to them lying up the wall to catch the run of. Don't want the nice wall getting splashed with acid.

You won't need them buckets of water after all .

Looking good. Don't be afraid to put a tape across the diagonals and check for square. Same goes with checking for level across the floor. A few buckets of water threw over it in a day or two will do it no harm but can show up bad bits very quickly. If it turns out it's all gd then happy days on to the next bit with confidence it's 100% right at the bottom.

How big are the holes?? A few pics would help. I repaired mine from the inside in my last house. I cut a thin slice horizontal just above the hole. Put a long rectangle shape piece of membrane down through the slit and pulled it down so it covered the hole on the outside with a flap sticking through the slit on the inside. Used some silicone and glued the flap on the inside and the 3 sides of the underneath of the rectangle to the existing felt. Then cut a patch and glued in on from the inside over the hole. It was not a handy job at all to do and it was between the battens so was easier to do as above.