Declan52

I wouldn't say that. Not having done any chemistry in school, physics and biology where my choices, I find it quite interesting to be honest. Lots of it is way over my head but there has been what I would deem relevant questions posted and no definitive answers in return.

I'm not a mod.

??

That's a big office/granny flat.

Is it not better to use external wall insulation then as you will be making the inside smaller.

Is this going to be single skin block build or a cavity??

Will this always be a garden office or in the future could you end up using it as a granny flat type unit??? There are some real nice wooden ready made type buildings that will tick the garden office look. They won't require proper foundations. But if it could end up the other option in later years then get the calculations done and see how far you need to go down and when the time comes you will be able to prove that only going Xmm deep is adequate.

It would be up to you to prove that Foundations that are 400mm,500mm,600mm deep etc are adequate by getting proper calculations done by a structural engineer.

How is the roof built up insulation wise?? None there in that video so is it above the OSB or is there none.

Take out the downlight and put your phone up and take a few pics. Use the timer function on your phone to get the pics.

Are the pipes going to the vent where the damage is visible insulated?? With warmer air going through these pipes if they aren't insulated the warm air going through cold pipes will definitely result in condensation. Which can leak out causing your damage. Can you remove the ceiling vent and put your hand up to see if it's damp in the pipe.

I didn't use anything. Once the plasterboard was on it covered most of it. I had the membrane bent over to make a fold ,like a Z , where it went onto the wall This meant the roof and walls could each move when they dried out and not rip the membrane. The rest was covered by the scrim cloth the plasterer put on.

So if it's a flat roof why do they need a full height scaffold?? They can easily use the trestles at full height to spread the roof joists and set up the ply/OSB roof covering. Or maybe they aren't allowed to work of trestles.

My upstairs is 2400mm and downstairs is 2550mm and the difference is really noticeable. It doesn't have to be a massive difference for it to give the illusion that it is bigger than it really is.

Instead of a truss roof would a flat roof solve the height issue. The walls can be put up inside as normal then joists from the inside as well of trestles. Easy job then to sheet the roof out and cover it with what ever finish you choose.

Would getting a laser type treatment be worth while.

You would be surprised how far out of plumb you can build blocks. I have seen some really bad block houses over the years as well. No matter what method you choose you should always be checking up on how it is going. Doesn't take long to put a tape over a base to see if it's square or put a level on a wall to check for plumb. I accept with tf things move at a much faster pace and maybe you don't want to get in the way but it's your money paying for the work so never be afraid to call a halt to work to check whatever aspect is troubling you. The most important aspect of the troubles Lizzie has experienced is the simple fact if it's not right at the bottom then you have no chance of it being right at the top. Attention to detail is critical here and never ever be afraid to question either the guys doing the work or if your not running the build yourself then the PM.

It's one of them items that you can easily do without but it all depends on your lifestyle. With having 3 kids that are constantly online using WiFi I have TV's ,Sonos , Android boxes, fire sticks all hardwired using cat5. Otherwise the WiFi would grind to a halt and then it would be my head on the Chopping block.

I would say it's more a case of having got into bed with the DUP to save her own skin there narrow minded view of the world is skewing a lot of what she might have wanted to do.

I like avocado and toast but not a fan of lattes or coffee in general to be honest.

You use a diverter type device like this https://www.marlec.co.uk/product/solar-iboost/?v=79cba1185463 to send excess electric to power your immersion to heat your water. For less moving parts and no maintenance whatsoever. Pv wins hands down.

Mine is a 22kw with a 350l tank. My tank is upstairs so 350l was as much weight as I could go to without some major additional joinery work. I have pv so it takes care of the hot water between may - October. Mine is inside my sunroom. At the time choice was pretty limited in NI for this type. Where will yours be going. Make sure you ask about how often it will need cleaned out. I would do a quick clean maybe every 3-4 days during the winter and a proper deep clean out every month. Takes about 5 mins for the quick clean and maybe 20 for the longer one.

What kw size of pellet stove are you going for?? Go for as large a thermal store as you can. What have you in mind for the storage of your pellets. I get mine in bags and store them in my shed on a pallet. I go through around 1.5t each year for all my heating and hot water demand.

Does it just wedge in tight and can you take it off easily enough?? Most mixers I ever used had been on the end of quite a few bangs with hammers and shovels so the front was more egg shaped.

If you stand in front of it and stare into it like it's a black hole abyss then the wall won't get hit. This might be a bit of an issue for you in your normal state of undress but am sure you would get used to cement burns on your delicate bits.