Declan52

If he is working day rate then it's £250 each and every day. If it's price work then it's £650 for every thousand bricks built.

Yeah it gives the house, blocks and timber in the roof, a chance to dry out. If you don't wet the wall it will cause the scratch/top coat to dry out too quick as the wall will suck the moisture out of the plaster before it goes off. Also gives it a bit longer working time for you to get it on and wait on it to dry out just enough to start flattening it out and rubbing it up.

So what is the roof build up?? 3.3m you could double up 6*2 for joists.

You need to build over it to give it is strength. Your roof will be very low as head height is 2.1m which will mean your ceiling is 2165mm which will feel like a cave.

Can you get access to the top of the downlights and ceiling speakers to place a air tight hood/plant pot over them?? Mhrv vents should have all been sealed over before the test. Air con vents??? You can use rubber seals on the crawl space hatches then use a screw with a decorative cup and screw threw the door stop to pull the hatch tight against the seal. Can you use a bead of silicone to seal where the toilet comes through the wall? A few pics of the manifolds and the ceiling speakers and toilet would give us a better idea of what needs done to fix it.

I used lightweight blocks on all my inside skin and have had little to no cracking. Once my roof was on I let the house sit for 5 months, Oct to march, to dry out. The main issue can have is not enough water is put on the blocks before they are plastered. I used a hose and soaked them through and then some more. It means they won't suck all the moisture out of the scratch coat and dry it out to fast which results in all the cracking. Before the skim goes on the wall gets another soaking again.

A pass with a score below 1 means you have done a serious amount of work and will benefit in reduced heating bills as it's not leaking out quicker than you can replace it. A score near 10 means you haven't fitted a front door. That's the kind of air leakage your talking about. You wouldn't want to live in a house with the front door missing.

No the wall at the back of the garden. Yeah most houses here that's where they put them.

Doing a garden up and have come across some of the worst walls I have ever seen. Boundary wall at the back of the house is 8 ft high and it's 125mm out of plumb from top to bottom. Not sure what went on with the wall between the houses but they didn't definitely didn't put a line across it. Bubbles and string must have been expensive in the 60s.

The sub floor will be as you say all over the place so take your measurements of the underside of the joists. These should all be the same. I worked out what I needed from the front door and measured up. Then transferred this to the rest of the house. Set one frame, then measured up from the top of the frame to the joist. Next time I measured down set a piece of timber level at the top of the mark then put the pre made Frame into the hole up against the timber set it plumb and banged some concrete screws. Means you can screw in a tiny bit checking for plumb. If you go to much then screw back out and pack where needed.

You can get either real stone that has been cut down to 30/40mm slips or more regular shaped versions like z stone where stone is glued together to form the z shape. There are also concrete options where coloured concrete is poured into moulds but those won't stand the test of time. So first thing to choose is do you want it random pattern so it looks like real stone work or more straight lines, z stone or similar. Then it's pick a colour you like. You just use a good quality tile adhesive, swimming pool standard, to fix them to the wall.

You can get some pretty high quality short throw projectors now which will eliminate the big projector hanging from the roof plus a lot of the wiring considerations.

That's all I done with mine. No silicone on the inside at all. I used Tec 7 silicone for mine. Just beware that the glass is pretty heavy, mine was 1400mm wide 1800mm high.

You can just make it from timber and then paint it up to look very nice.

Welcome. Just go to the relevant section and post the question and we will try our best to help.

Have you kept a detailed log with accompanying pictures?? As in on 16/12/20 while doing X work this was damaged and then have a pic to show the damage. And then so and and so on for each and every occurrence when something the neighbours builders had an impact on your house. Did you give them permission to come onto your ground and erect the scaffolding?? The ceiling should have had an acrow underneath to take the weight. It's this kind of detail a solicitor will ask for if you end up going doing that route.

The post you have been waiting all this time for has finally arrived @pocster

If only we knew someone interested in selling some.

Is that an admission of guilt @DavidFrancis for cutting @jack cable and making him miss a few zoom quizzes.

Can you move the wall and make a feature or of it in your basement.

You could build a small retaining wall out of sleepers. They come in various lengths and if you only need 400mm -600mm high then it's only 2/3 rows. A few fence posts concreted into the ground and some coach bolts will give you an easy and relatively cheap retaining wall. After that it's up to you if you want to get a digger in to level it out or sharpen the tip of the spade and dig it out yourself.

Our local store is full of all things DIY. Got a cordless hedge trimmer for £15, a decent set of forstner bits and a drill bit set.

I built mine over 18 months. Put the founds in and let them sit over the winter, November to Feb. Started to build again and got the roof on for September. I was doing this on my days off work so was only onsite 2/3 days each week. Let it sit over winter again and then started up again. You could leave your foundations sitting for years and years and at most it might need a bit of bleach if you get moss on the walls. If your going for beads for your insulation then you will have no problems with your cavity. They don't get blown in until near the end. Just need to cover the top of the brickwork so rain can't sit and soak in and you end up with salt staining. A roll of 225mm dpc on top works perfectly.

I just bought the 12v impact driver and drill driver kit. Much easier to hold in your hand weight wise plus they still have plenty of power.

Have you a usb camera that you could use to have a look at different heights to trace where the waters route down the wall. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Endoscope-Pancellent-Waterproof-Borescope-Inspection/dp/B01MR8EONS?ref_=mh_s9_apbd_orecs_b5bbP3H&pf_rd_r=ZJBB92NY4HEN5F5FYZQH&pf_rd_p=5a5edff1-715e-5f7d-8401-f9076d561d60&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_t=BROWSE_ANYWHERE&pf_rd_i=5136303031 Not this particular one only using it as an example.