Declan52

You tried vegetable oil or wd40 yet??

Sorted.

I would use treated 4*2 and bolts at least 150mm so they are in the wall 100mm min. 3 should be plenty for each post. If the blocks arent a crumbly mess then thunder bolts would do.

A pic would help.

A ladder long enough to reach the roof and lift the first tile and slide your phone in and take a pic. Don't drop your phone in the cavity!!! There might be something closing the cavity at the top that might need removed.

The forum is divided up into different sub sections so have a quick look and see roughly where you think the question needs to go. Don't worry too much if it's in the wrong area as we can move it if needs be. The most important aspect of any design is the site. Can you have the house facing south so you can avail of the sun to let heat deep into the house plus also use for solar PV generation. Have a read of the numerous blogs where other members lay their souls bare detailing all the good plus quite a few bad experiences. Then come back and post a site plan if you have it and let the collective point out any potential issues.

Have you fully paid them yet as that is no where near acceptable. That's first maybe second year apprentice standard.

100mm concrete will work fine. It will take longer to heat up but also store the heat longer before it cools down.

It won't do any harm but won't improve airtightness. It will however stop any rain getting into the cavity which would help. It's an easy but very messy job to do so if you have the time then fire away.

Could you create a temp hard standing wide enough to allow the lorry to pull in enough to allow a car to pass on the other side?? Remove a bit of hedge, fence etc and dump a load of hardcore sitting on some membrane. When your finished you can reuse the hardcore where ever is needed.

Your not expecting too much. They are looking top dollar money so you would think they provide mercedes quality work which they haven't. 50mm out of square on such a small footprint and only 3 course high is not good. What do you mean by the floor is short on one side?? Are they corbeling over the last course so the beams rest on it. The beam will need a min of 75mm of bearing preferably 100mm. Are you getting this much.

Out of plum? Out of square? Wrong dimensions according to the plan? Kind of mistakes that will give you a reason to reduce the cost by saying look at X,Y,Z.

So the brickies got £400 a day and the help £200. That's a very very decent wage. Am a bit worried that you didn't think some sort of price structure was needed as in I will pay you £X per day or a total for this stage of the job. The brickies have just seen gold and went for it. Can you ask them for a breakdown of why it's so much or can you say no that's too expensive but I will meet you at £2500-£2800 which would still be a lot for 3.5 days work. What do you mean by it's not accurate???

How many bricks/ blocks did they build??? Did they have to man handle the beams into place or had you a digger/telehandler there???

The blue tinge comes from the aggregate that is used so not sure how to do that in a rubbed up plaster. If you use a dye it will eventually lighten up with the sun hitting it and you could have different colours on 3 sides of your house.

It all comes down to what look you want. Wet dash is bullet proof. Not the prettiest to look at but it seals the wall like nothing else and won't come off unless you hit it with a sledge. With a dry dash you can mix different aggregate to give it a different look. I have a dry dash on my house which contains some quartzite so when the sun shines the wall sparkles. But obviously you get some stones fall of the wall but after 5 years in mine your talking maybe a handful of aggregate so not worth talking about. K rend and other smooth types look very nice on modern type builds where they want a nice crisp clean white look. You can have issues if the plasterer doesn't put it on correct, same with every method to be fair. If you have plenty of trees or its shaded they can go green with algae but can be cleaned off if this happens.

If its contaminated then they will want a standpipe put in the borehole so they can come back and test the water plus the gas build up.

Mine was 75mm on average across the floor. Some bits might have been near 70mm and others maybe 80mm. No bounce at all on with it.

They might just be a reseller and can't check every single product they sell. Could be lots of different reasons so let's just let it play out and when the situation is resolved one way or the other then the post can be updated.

Mainly because the true test of how a company operates is how they deal with a complaint. They could hold their hands up and offer a full refund or replace the door. Or they might not. But the very least is you give them a chance before they get ripped to bits here.

You sure you have the correct web address for the other company heat.ie.

Just hold fire on that and give them a chance to rectify the situation first. You can then come back and update one way or the other and paint a complete picture.

Is it possible that that door originally came with different hardware and was changed to what we see now. Both the hinge and door catch are not for them holes. Either that or Stevie wonder has bought a set of chisels and a lump hammer. No chance I would be paying for that.

Can be left months and months and even years and won't make no difference.

I was the same absolutely wrecked with worry that my claim pack would be lost. I scanned every thing that was in the pack and double saved it on two separate devices. Sent the claim pack recorded delivery and followed it's every move till it got to its final destination when I could then finally relax.