Declan52

Looks really well.

Build it in soapbar blocks so it's 150mm wide. Will be more sturdy that a 100mm wall.

Is there anything on the inside that could be causing the building to stress. Like a large beam carrying a roof section or a large open plan area. From your first posts it just looked like the house has dried out and cracked in a few places but the more and more info and pics you post it's evident is way more than that. There's no way to dress this up nice I think you have bought a turd. Unless you can find the root cause of the cracks no amount of cosmetic work will hide the fact it's still a turd. If there was an expansion joint on a wall you would see it very clearly. It shouldn't have been plastered over as that defeats the point of one.

Can you ask the company who supply the quartz to drill a few holes in it so you can use a suitable fixing along the length of the walnut. These along with ct1 will hold it in place.

It's just the way it works out when you bond a wall out. They really should have space out a few blocks so spread the extra 30 mm over 4-5 blocks but it won't make no difference. The crack could be just from the house drying out. Is it on the inside as well or does it continue on down the wall???

Don't forget edge insulation so your slab doesn't touch the wall.

It will be fine. I have seen kerbs, lath and all sorts of things built into walls of houses and they are still standing.

All it might have needed was the tongue on the left hand side of the new tile grinded down 20mm+ to allow it to slide under the old tile. Then start at the join and work to the right. Either they come up or your going to end up with something like a 300mm wide strip of lead down the roof in lengths to suit 3/4 tiles with enough tucked under the top tile each time to hold it in place. Will not be the nicest looking but will keep the rain out. What you have now won't keep anything out.

You could try brick acid. Start of with it well watered down, maybe 20% acid, and try it on a hidden area. If it works great but if it doesn't just increase the mix little by little until it shifts it.

You need to work out your heat demand taking into account the insulation in the walls, roof, floor and the u value of your Windows and doors. This will give you a figure to which you will be able to see if the heat produced by ufh for that area is enough to heat that room.

The bottom half won't get warm though as the heat will continue to rise up and go out. The rads will have water approx 70 degrees, maybe even warmer, going round them giving out a fair bit of heat. The ufh will have water no more than 40 degrees, can be a tiny bit more but will depend on what you are using as a floor covering. That's the issue. If the rads can't heat it then the ufh will have no chance. Could you try a fan on the ceiling to try to get the hot air to circulate a bit more. Would be a simple fairly cheap option.

Seen a lot of these and the oil will travel along sewer pipes, bt cables etc and end up in each of the neighbours gardens so beware. If the water table is high it will also leak into this and could end up anywhere. The house will never be the same. Always have that oil smell in it no matter what they do.

So from your router you will have a single cable,cat5/6/7 whatever you go with, that will go to an Ethernet switch. This then will have various amounts of ports that you connect to the rest of the house. The link is a simple 8 port. You will have your main cable then can add another 7 to go different rooms in your house. They are a simple plug and play setup with nothing else needed to be done. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-SG108S-Ethernet-Lifetime-Warranty/dp/B07HP6ZLSM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+cable+hub+8&qid=1595970637&sr=8-3 You can have an Ethernet switch with as many ports as you would ever want. More ports will drive up the cost. Then you have switch's that can provide power as well,PoE, where you can connect cameras and access points to. Figure out how many different rooms will need a data cable and what for. Living Room might need 2/3 , TV, sky or firestick, Sonos etc. Other rooms might just need 1. That number will then be the size of your switch.

You can get 150 x100X 440mm blocks. https://stowellconcrete.co.uk/concrete-soap-bar-blocks/

The experts can clear them. They use a rotating head that attaches to a power hose. It spins round cutting the roots. It's only a temp fix as they will continue to grow back though.

These are both worth a watch. And this. Lots of very good roofing tips.

That was a hard watch without gagging ,very funny though.

The guys who clean them out need given a knighthood when they retire. No amount of pay would Make me do that job.

The heat will still rise, physics not much you can do about that, but with the extra insulation it won't be escaping. You will then end up with not needing as much heat. You will find that with ufh the temp of the water in the pipes will not be warm enough to overcome your heat loss. Ufh only works in houses that have a low heat demand.

A pic would help us understand the problems with access better. How wide is it?? What is on either side , fence or a wall or trees?? How long before it widens out if it widens out??

But there is a massive difference in a raft Foundation and an insulated raft Foundation. He could be building block and then pouring a concrete raft which ontop he will put your insulation and then another thin screed which holds your ufh pipes.

You need to first reduce the heat loss from the room before you think about ufh. 50mm is not a lot of insulation in a roof. Can you overboard the ceiling with insulated plasterboard to at least another 100mm more if the budget allows. You will lose the exposed beams but your house will be much warmer. Unless you sort the heat loss out then ufh will never heat that space. The heat will still go up and out no matter what the source is. Plus to go down the ufh route it will need 100mm min of insulation under the floor or all you heat will go down and there won't be much to heat the room.

For that volume you would get the job done much quicker with a 5t mini digger. More power,longer reach and bigger buckets.

Under 20 bars of scaffold would be cheap, £50 to a local scaffolding company . 5 mins to put in place and take away. Can be stored in a fairly narrow gap. The frame is much more important than a fancy winch. It's what will take the weight.

Great minds.