Declan52

Is there any concrete or just the wide founds of brick???

A spirit level will get them plumb. A string line along the bottom 1/3 will keep them in line. Another string line along the top will keep the heights the same. Set the post in the hole and move it till it hits the string at the top. If it needs to go down more dig more out. If it needs to go up put some more earth back in and ram it down with the post till it's where it needs to be. Put the first post in at a height that suits your fence panel with a 1/3 of the hole filled with dryish postcrete, just enough to hold it in place but not wet enough to start it to set, check plumb and it's where it needs to be to be inline with the rest. Once your happy fill the hole up and that's it done. Put a stake in at the far end so you can put a string line from the first post to the stake so all you posts are in line. You will need a piece of timber the same size as your panel. Put your timber on the first post then lay it down so you see where your next hole has to go. And then repeat till you get to your last hole. This has to be done accurate otherwise you will get to the last post and your panel won't fit!!!. Follow the first hole steps and set your depth to suit your fence panel height. You will have now a post at the start and end both firmly fixed in place. You can then attach the string to the top and using both string lines it will be in line and the same height. You will just double check with a level for plumb as you set each post in the hole. Wooden fence posts are much easier to lift. Concrete ones last longer. It's your choice.

When I was doing site investigation work this is the tool we used to dig down at the front of a house to find the concrete base. You can get to at least 1.8m with only opening a hole at the top approx 400mm square. https://www.buildingsuppliesdirect.com/clarke-cht770-post-hole-digger-1801770?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhZr1BRCLARIsALjRVQM9AeWXDatcFHfVqlhJ17STfaKC50_6y_yaPmvoKaCg8ShIzKMSGUQaAtTmEALw_wcB Bung some one young and stupid with a strong back your builder knows £30 for an hrs work and let them at it. If they don't have that tool is only going to cost you £50 all in and then you will know if it's yes or no. But please don't dig anymore more soil out incase you have to put it back.

The most important words in that post"he didn't think". No body knows or well ever know unless find out how deep the concrete founds of the house are. That is the big unknown on this. Look at it this way. Best case scenario is you dig out the soil and end up with a 9ft wall which will need to be maybe over 1m wide at the bottom and then reducing in thickness as it gets higher ending up 225mm at the top. Cost wise considering it will need plastered will be fairly expensive. You will have the cost to dispose of all that soil,concrete for the base, at least 1200mm wide, a lot of blocks, concrete copings for the top, sand and cement for mortar, cost to lay them then plaster to finish them . This won't be a cheap job. Your going to be into many thousands. Worst case. The concrete founds of your house are to shallow and you dig out to much and the front of your house ends up on the street.

You will have a measurement of X cm to your concrete. Then it's a bit of maths to work out a Y cm of the 45 degree angle and where it will come into contact with your flat driveway. You will already know the difference in height from your path at the front of the house and the path on the road. So you will subtract X from this measurement to give you Z. But the most crucial thing to find out is this concrete depth. Everything rests on this. See how much a difference this makes on this pic. You want it as deep as possible.

The 45 degree explanation is the safe option. So dig down at the front of your house frontage and keep going till you hit concrete. Will take an HR or 2 but then you will know the depth the concrete is at. Once you know that then you can make a judgement call on the rest. If the concrete is deep enough and you won't be within the 45 degree line then great. Otherwise your risking the front of the house sliding and that's not where you want to be. Thats where a SE will earn their money. Keeping your house where it's meant to be. Have you considered a slight slope as in maybe up to 25/30 degrees to park on. Will mean not as much soil needs removed and should get you closer to the front before you cross that 45 degree line. But the important bit to find out is the depth of your house concrete. So don't remove anymore soil until this is found and then it's a decision on of you can proceed safely or not without involving a SE.

From the outside looking in the questions I asked are to try to find out certain details like who ordered the floor and who took delivery. If you had ordered board X and board y turned up and you checked the delivery docket and spotted the mistake then you can send the wrong board back. After you have signed for it saying you have accepted delivery then your more asking politely to get it changed rather than demanding. As far as your past issues I really couldn't care less who is to blame. You come on here each and every time some problem pops up and get further and further stressed out. Other members give you a range of options to try to help you rectify the problem but as above with your reply to my post you have came back with a reply in which you reckon I am taking the builders side. I have only tried to give you advice as I would try to do it. So in the words of Peter Jones I'm out.

Set of sewer rods and a mouse and cat will find it in secs. https://www.gem-tools.co.uk/cat-radio-detection-mouse/

Your floor will be made up of 10/15/20 separate boards of all sizes. Once they are laid and glued up then it all becomes one solid lump of flooring. Who ordered the flooring?? Who took delivery of the flooring??? Did they check if the flooring for both areas came on the same lorry was it the same brand??? A 1 litre bottle of d4 glue is under a £10 do why is your bill £40?? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-D4-Wood-Adhesive-adhesive/dp/B001OXA4GM Considering you haven't handled confrontation well in the past do you really want to go down that route again??? Please wear gloves when using d4 glue as it doesn't come of your skin very easy. Don't scratch your head either or its a number 1 with the razor you will be getting.

There might also be some services running through your garden, sewer, electric, gas and water that could need to be rerouted.

If you where doing this spanning joists the min length would be 400mm but you aren't your laying on top of insulation. So the cut bit from your first row starts your second row then you lay a full board and then a cut. The next bit left over from your cut starts the third row and on and on and on till it's done. You can get many many different types of flooring of the same thickness but it will depend on the profile of the t&g of the boards wether different versions will fit together.

The end of the board doesn't have to land on a joist due to the t&g around the edges. The board on the rows above and below it will hold it. With yours being ontop of insulation it won't matter either. Just start the next row with your of cut.

A quality cordless impact driver and drill.

Do you have an ambilight TV as well?? I have the TV and it's outstanding and am interested in the lights to pair them up to really look the part when watching a film.

My wife doing her domiciliary work goes to a lady who is bed bound and she uses this type of thing to be able to control her lights, heating, TV, radio etc. She was blown away the first time she went to the lady. All done via apps on her android tablet.

I use Alexa with the firestick and Google assistant on my phone and smart TV and both work really well. Haven't really looked into using it to turn lights etc on but might do in a few years as the tech becomes more widespread and cheaper.

The hardest part and most critical will be the joists so please get some one into to help you set these correct or you will be in a world of deep stuff. Once the floor is in then it's much more simple until you get to the roof Where I'm afraid you will need help. If you get the roof on then you can batter away to your heart's content.

Throw a fine layer of sand over it.

One of the newer models as well. Couldn't beat that for a cheap streaming device.

If you don't put kerbs in the tarmac will spread out then crack and fall apart eventually. Concrete would be an option doing it in 3/4m bays. You can just move the side rails along as you go. It won't break at the edges as much as tarmac would.

Will the timber frame company keep your materials stored for free or will they be looking it out the door so they can collect some much needed funds. If it was me I would put the concrete in and wait. But if it comes to it and the TF company want it out the door im sure the scaffolding guy would be up for a bit of negotiation.

Go to the big shed place beside b&q Boucher rd and buy a large wooden shed, I got an 18*10 foot of them 5 years ago and it's still watertight. Go to a double glazing salesman, Gumtree and see if he has any old stock going for the skip. A few Windows and a door. Insulate it all yourself and put in whatever electrics you need plus plumbing and board it out. They do them already with all this work done but you will pay for this. https://www.shedfactoryireland.ie/

So not even 4p a day to save some heat but more importantly provide fresh clean filtered air into your build. I will have some of that.

As above it's free to set up an Amazon account. You just go into their amazon.co.uk page and register. You will need to put in all your details, name, address and some method of payment,debit card. This is for if you want to buy anything from the actual Amazon store but it also links to your firestick so if there is a movie or TV series you can also buy these. If you never buy nothing you will never have to pay nothing. There are plenty of other apps you can install on it for watching movies and TV series and live sport but we will just keep it simple for now.

Don't get the version 1 they are dead slow. Get the 4k one. When you put it in to the TV and do the startup registration bit you connect it to your WiFi and enter your Amazon account details. Then you can pick from a selection of apps just by using the up,down, left right cursor on the remote. iPlayer etc are in this bit so you just pick what you want. It will already have all the amazon apps pre installed as they want you to buy films, TV series etc but you don't have to of you don't want to. The remote is very good for navigating it's own menu but if you install a web browser it's brutal. If you have a smart phone then you can use it instead of the remote but it does the same thing.