Mr Punter

You do not normally require Building Regulations approval for a retaining wall unless it is supporting foundations or a structure or it is near a road or footpath.

Can you explain to BC that the firm has gone belly up and ask for their suggestions / help?

I would set it forward a fair bit. Ours has 65mm of worktop at the front, 140mm at the back. Too close to the back and you won't be able to clean around the tap base and fitting the tap will be a pain. Also you will have to lean over more. Mastic before you fit the tap.

If you want tiles or paving you need to get rid of the vegetation and soil, build a wall around the proposed perimeter, fill with hardcore compacted in layers, top with 100mm MOT then lay your slabs. Have a look at https://www.pavingexpert.com/.

I am sorry that you are involved in such a tiresome, miserable and expensive issue. Please try not to let it take over your life and I hope it is resolved soon.

Mostly the heaters are less than 400W. You need a switched spur which you can normally take from a ring main. Locate the spur outside the bathroom feeding a flex outlet in the bathroom. Ask your sparky to confirm it is OK before you do the floor / plasterboard.

Yes it sounds like 3 flitch beams, each with 2 timbers and a steel plate. How many are shown on the layout plan?

@Pocster had / has a Dewalt tile saw for sale. I have used the same model and they are very good.

The same setup both sides is better but you will still need this in writing. Why is the beam spliced twice? That is a fair bit of work for a bit of vaulted ceiling. Looks nice though, especially with the Veluxes.

Be very careful to clean off any splashes and spatters before the paint has dried as it is very hard to remove from a sound surface once cured. Even spatters on glass will stick.

A coat of Zinsser stain block should hold it back

My input: Right to Light I believe they would need to apply for an injunction or damages. If their claim was not valid as their light was not sufficiently diminished they may be liable for both parties costs, which may put them off. Party Wall Just suck it up and appoint a Party Wall Surveyor to issue the notices. The neighbour will probably also appoint a surveyor and you will pay for both. Budget £1,500. Foundations As above, strip footings are often cheaper. You may need to do them in sections. If your SE is local he should have a decent idea what works. Also it is worth talking to Building Control to see what is typical in the area.

It doesn't sound silly. As long as the raft designer is OK with the material and it is not contaminated with the peat I can't see why not. You will need space to cleanly stockpile it.

Mortgage broker specialising in self build mortgage may be best to advise. I don't think there is anything wrong with getting the land below market value. You will need a mortgage to qualify for the bonus.

Get a pack of small brackets and fit one to the top of each side panel, screwed to the wall. The worktop will cover them.

Yes. There is not much margin for error at the top of the flush pipe hole. The rest can be pretty rough.

That looks very difficult to safely demolish without a large excavator. It looks like a coal shed, but a bit too clean inside. Send pics of the progress.

The roof is holding the walls up and vice versa. Maybe don't let the grandchildren play in there though.

If it is worktop, cut it face down.

Yes, the firrings need to be 40-50mm minimum when perpendicular. Run the firrings at 400 centres and you can use 18mm sheets. I have bought firrings at 1:60 and this seems fairly standard. You could always have a gutter either side and a ridge in the middle.

I have found that conversions are charged far higher than new build.

No I am with you. We have a four storey house, so lots of intermediate switches. I also like the click mode.

You can break out a fairly large area of slab without issues. The slab could just be concrete oversite. Hopefully there is no rebar / mesh. Better to have a bit of wiggle room.

I don't think you are supposed to run cables in the external cavities. Check with the sparky who is doing the sign off. Foam or rockwool is fine around pipe holes. Plasterboard is fairly forgiving. You could add some thin hardboard to low spots.

Sorry no idea of the quality.