Mr Punter

@Pocster had / has a Dewalt tile saw for sale. I have used the same model and they are very good.

The same setup both sides is better but you will still need this in writing. Why is the beam spliced twice? That is a fair bit of work for a bit of vaulted ceiling. Looks nice though, especially with the Veluxes.

Be very careful to clean off any splashes and spatters before the paint has dried as it is very hard to remove from a sound surface once cured. Even spatters on glass will stick.

A coat of Zinsser stain block should hold it back

My input: Right to Light I believe they would need to apply for an injunction or damages. If their claim was not valid as their light was not sufficiently diminished they may be liable for both parties costs, which may put them off. Party Wall Just suck it up and appoint a Party Wall Surveyor to issue the notices. The neighbour will probably also appoint a surveyor and you will pay for both. Budget £1,500. Foundations As above, strip footings are often cheaper. You may need to do them in sections. If your SE is local he should have a decent idea what works. Also it is worth talking to Building Control to see what is typical in the area.

It doesn't sound silly. As long as the raft designer is OK with the material and it is not contaminated with the peat I can't see why not. You will need space to cleanly stockpile it.

Mortgage broker specialising in self build mortgage may be best to advise. I don't think there is anything wrong with getting the land below market value. You will need a mortgage to qualify for the bonus.

Get a pack of small brackets and fit one to the top of each side panel, screwed to the wall. The worktop will cover them.

Yes. There is not much margin for error at the top of the flush pipe hole. The rest can be pretty rough.

That looks very difficult to safely demolish without a large excavator. It looks like a coal shed, but a bit too clean inside. Send pics of the progress.

The roof is holding the walls up and vice versa. Maybe don't let the grandchildren play in there though.

If it is worktop, cut it face down.

Yes, the firrings need to be 40-50mm minimum when perpendicular. Run the firrings at 400 centres and you can use 18mm sheets. I have bought firrings at 1:60 and this seems fairly standard. You could always have a gutter either side and a ridge in the middle.

I have found that conversions are charged far higher than new build.

No I am with you. We have a four storey house, so lots of intermediate switches. I also like the click mode.

You can break out a fairly large area of slab without issues. The slab could just be concrete oversite. Hopefully there is no rebar / mesh. Better to have a bit of wiggle room.

I don't think you are supposed to run cables in the external cavities. Check with the sparky who is doing the sign off. Foam or rockwool is fine around pipe holes. Plasterboard is fairly forgiving. You could add some thin hardboard to low spots.

Sorry no idea of the quality.

These go to 17mm: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMDLB1.html

Trickle vents in the bedroom windows.

I have not seen Trad Deck on self build before. What was the cost for the 2 houses with delivery and collection?

I recently looked at heated skirting and the costs were not ridiculous. It still needs piping up, like your radiators, but you have more freedom placing furniture. With your floor, if you can get a bit of height by taking up the screed you could then add, say, 50mm PIR and 22m floating chipboard.

Well the paint has failed to adhere so I can't see an option other than remove it, put up with it or buy new doors.

You could try English Sweet Chestnut.

I assume this is an extension and that is an existing drain? Looks like a wide opening for a 110mm pipe?