Mr Punter

We have quite a few inward opening tilt turns and it would be useful to have an external handle / lock, but I think the only option is replace whole unit. You can't just chisel out a triple glazed ali sash.

It is the Gods of electricity telling your Mrs to hurry up.

I have used Guttercrest for copings and they seem pretty good and reliable. You can probably drape some DPC under the copings for belt and braces.

No it will need rebuilding.

Some mineral wool types, like DriTherm cavity slab, claim to be water repellent. Maybe get the leaks properly sealed, then do a test hole or 2 to see if it is actually saturated.

If it is any consolation I think the brickwork does look good. I have used aluminium coping for parapet walls in the past and it performs well but may not suit the minimalist aesthetic.

If you have decent ground conditions and you want it to be fully habitable space you could budget costs of 1.5 x the going rate per m2. The finished value is likely to be about 75% of the above ground value per m2.

A friend of mine is looking at these. It looks a clever system and saves getting heavy steels in. Not sure how expensive though. Can you update this post with the price when you get it?

Have you tried contacting TeleBeam? They should be able to provide you with a quote and the design and calcs will be included in the price.

Render will help. Make good around all holes inside and out.

Because there will be a fair amount of PV, try to avoid lots of hips, valleys and rooflights on the main sun facing slope. The PV may look better if it is in a single block. I note it is not included at all in the current plans and elevations.

Can you get it galv at reasonable cost? If they are hinged be aware that a strong wind will be an issue so timber infill is not ideal. If they are automatic you obvs need power and cabling. A friend does these and likes FAAC. Videx for the intercom. Be very aware of safety requirements so nobody can get crushed between or behind them.

Here is the Premier Inn. Timber frame and brick outer leaf.

A few years ago I converted a Victorian building (150 years old?) back into 2 cottages. It was a heap of rubbish, built from whatever come to hand. The only reason it survived was that it was shielded by surrounding taller buildings.

Yes, 100%. There is a new(ish) timber frame Premier Inn near me with this detail. I can see it from my office.

Where I am a typical house is a Victorian terrace in a conservation area. In nearby Brighton a typical dwelling is a converted flat.

Have a look at some: https://www.cupapizarras.com/uk/news/slate-cladding/

That camera looks like it is to track anyone trying to leave...

Yes, you could do it in natural slate. Won't fade or warp and will last longer than most of us.

You could invest in a few freehold lock-up garages. No sitting tenants, EPC, council tax etc. Sometimes there may be an angle for later planning consent.

Well done @ProDave for diagnosing the issue within a day of the original post.

Mistakes like this are easily done. From the drawing it looks like the top of the cellcore needs to be level with the top of the foundations, so there may be a fair bit of infill to make up.

I guess B&Bs may. The only safety issue I have had is when the timer clockwork spring lost its mojo and the toaster got very hot before I realised.

I have a Dualit 3 slice (2+1) and it is about 30 years old. If you must put it under a wall cupboard, bring it towards the front and if you are doing a massive toasting session, relocate it.

You can't always satisfy all the conditions in one hit. Things such as archaeology and contamination are often in several stages, so will need to be discharged in stages.