Mr Punter

Just lean the boards at a bit of an angle.

A couple more quotes and you be able to decide.

Can you rotate to get the fitting nearer to the top of the soil pipe? Maybe a bend with a spigot and socket would help? Hopefully someone who is decent at plumbing can make a more useful comment.

Was this galv and powder coat? It looks like you went through the wall for the fixing rather than resin. Did this need SE signoff?

It looks OK. 25mm gap will work.

I had a look and they seemed to deal in board products. Were the wall ties BBA or equivalent?

There is a cold bridge but not the end of the world. It may be worth a bit of insulation over the UFH pipes where they run down the corridor if it is not too late.

That's the one. The traps are filled with water. The test does not require much of a head so won't blow the water traps. You can do internal by bunging up the soil pipe and external by bunging up a drain. You sometimes need to do smaller sections. Make sure you do it before the BCO is there so they don't witness a fail.

You will need to strip the whole roof. If your budget can stretch to natural slate, suggest this to the planners. I doubt they will be keen on fake stone. It probably won't weather or last as long as natural.

If you have internal load bearing walls the hollowcore planks or beam and block would work fine. A well designed timber floor can also work very well and would meet your criteria, additionally allowing a greater choice of structure type. It is best to get an approved design, then decide what performance you require (insulation, low noise transfer, construction speed, maintenance, durability, environmental impact, price etc.) before deciding on structure type and build method.

Where is the insulation? I suspect you may need to strip the lot and start again. I am not a fan of the central drain. Unless you get this properly designed you will be messing about forever.

The only approval you need is for the replacement beam, floor joists and insulation (fabric improvement). They may not like the current layout, but tough.

If you have not made any changes other than even up 2 rooms, you don't need Building Regs. If you have, for example, removed a corridor or moved the kitchen it could be required.

To be a fire refuge I think it needs to be deeper than the building is high. If it is existing and no changes to the house I don't know why BC are interested?

I think you will need to be very hands on to get this done for £40k. You can sub out foundations, brickwork, plastering, electrics and plumbing. You may need to do some carpentry, roofing, drainage, gutters, kitchen install, paving, tiling and decoration. I think you will need a Party Wall Award which will cost maybe £1,400. You need engineer drawings and calcs. Is there access through the back, like a tarmac road across?

Christ what a mess! I can't see how that could be patched in, but I have zero experience with laying microcement.

It is only an issue if the concrete remains damp.

I get it now. I would be a bit pissed off with the architect for designing an expensive feature that has now cost you more time and money to scrap / modify and leaving you to design the solution. It looks like there is still a wasted void to the left of the left-hand pier. That space would be worth about £2,500 round here.

I guess you have a digger on site and can source concrete in small quantities. You will need to consider moisture ingress, airtightness and tying the the blockwork into the icf. Is the block wall going to be cavity? Unless you want to DIY you will need a bricklayer. I am not convinced with ICF, blockwork and timber frame mixed on the same external wall but if it works, then fine.

You need to either lower the ground or cut the bottom of the cladding. The posts should be cut down and sat on a metal elevated post base. There is a fair amount of work to do.

I would say no but if it is part of a new electrical install you will need it all tested and signed off for part P.

+1 They do anthracite and black. Go for smooth finish.

+1 I can't see the point in building a timber framed business unit.

If one of the spacers is a bit high you will never get the tile level and will have the messy job of removing it from wet adhesive.

I read it as no sheds, kennels, workshops etc without PP. Quite restrictive.