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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    It could rust fairly quickly if not galv and do not want that bleeding down the cladding. Or use copper, ali or zinc.
  2. Mr Punter
    It is difficult to measure as you often have joists, OSB, firrings, OSB, VCL, insulation, OSB, waterproofing.
  3. Mr Punter
    I wonder if you could get some EPS beads installed? If you don't get any water under the floor it could be that the insulation will give lots more benefit than the risk of lack of sub floor ventilation.
  4. Mr Punter
    It sounds OK in theory. The beams are normally deeper than the blocks, so you need to stop air flowing between the insulation sheets and the blocks. Is there concrete blinding to work off?
  5. Mr Punter
    Try a few and find out their lead times.
  6. Mr Punter
    Yes the trusses, noggins, rim boards and all the timber frame members.
  7. Mr Punter
    I would not suggest adding mineral wool because, with an unknown amount of insulation on top, you risk creating condensation, mould and rot. If it is really cold, strip the roof covering, add more insulation and new membrane.
  8. Mr Punter
    You are wasting your energy focusing on section sizes. Get a design and layout that works for you and will be acceptable to the planners. Get a good structural engineer to design the foundations and structure. Make sure you plan for decent airtightness and insulation.
  9. Mr Punter
    As it is only for storage I would wait at least 6 months before doing anything. The timber will shrink across the grain as it dries and this can cause cracking.
  10. Mr Punter
    I don't think your MVHR will do much for the condensation. Dehumidifiers are the way. Plumb them into a waste if you can so you don't need to mess around emptying them. If you are around during the day, switch off the dehumidifiers and open doors and windows. Obviously a cold and pissing wet winter means it will take a while to dry.
  11. Mr Punter
    Best to ask the planners. It may be just doing the dropped curb or the foundations for the garage. It does not look controversial so they may be easy going about it.
  12. Mr Punter
    I have not seen this added to plaster before, just cement based mixes.
  13. Mr Punter
    cts = centres, so 100mm apart. You can get the links fabricated as you will need a fair few.
  14. Mr Punter
    Lots of the self builders on here have MVHR - whole house ventilation systems. No trickle vent needed but a fair bit of messing to install.
  15. Mr Punter
    The wall plate is not strictly a structural member. I would think that if it is well fixed down either side of the notch and the notch leaves a reasonable amount of meat in the wall plate there should not be an issue.
  16. Mr Punter
    Lots of people confuse planning consent and building regs. Not surprising as they are both to do with building works and are normally dealt with by the council. At least they have confirmed that they won't take action as you have ceased works.
  17. Mr Punter
    If it is heavy mesh and 2 layers splice can be easier. When you have 4 sheets meeting mesh overlaps can get congested. Get the tie wires with the loops on the end and a tying tool. Thin blade on a 4" grinder. Get the splice bars cut to size.
  18. Mr Punter
    I think it would be helpful if @PXR5 posted the anonymised text of the email from BC so it is clear what they have requested and why.
  19. Mr Punter
    You do not normally require Building Regulations approval for a retaining wall unless it is supporting foundations or a structure or it is near a road or footpath.
  20. Mr Punter
    Can you explain to BC that the firm has gone belly up and ask for their suggestions / help?
  21. Mr Punter
    I would set it forward a fair bit. Ours has 65mm of worktop at the front, 140mm at the back. Too close to the back and you won't be able to clean around the tap base and fitting the tap will be a pain. Also you will have to lean over more. Mastic before you fit the tap.
  22. Mr Punter
    If you want tiles or paving you need to get rid of the vegetation and soil, build a wall around the proposed perimeter, fill with hardcore compacted in layers, top with 100mm MOT then lay your slabs. Have a look at https://www.pavingexpert.com/.
  23. Mr Punter
    I am sorry that you are involved in such a tiresome, miserable and expensive issue. Please try not to let it take over your life and I hope it is resolved soon.
  24. Mr Punter
    Mostly the heaters are less than 400W. You need a switched spur which you can normally take from a ring main. Locate the spur outside the bathroom feeding a flex outlet in the bathroom. Ask your sparky to confirm it is OK before you do the floor / plasterboard.
  25. Mr Punter
    Yes it sounds like 3 flitch beams, each with 2 timbers and a steel plate. How many are shown on the layout plan?
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