Mr Punter

He is using aerated though. Maybe needs Rendaid and mesh?

If you bought from a developer it is common to have a 10 year structural warranty and this should be covered. No mention of insulation in your build-up. Do you know where it is? The DPC looks like it is below ground level. It should be 150mm above. I suspect that there are a few defects at play here, not least that to achieve the "wheelchair standard", the finished external ground levels may have been built up with no attention paid to damp and water ingress. Can you take up a section of floor so you can see what layer the water is getting to? Maybe under the stairs?

I had some trays from another manufacturer and 70% did not drain correctly. Trouble is, once you have lugged a 1800 x 700 stone resin tray upstairs, unwrapped it, fitted it and connected it, it is a right pain to swap out. Plumber will charge you twice.

You are probably the best judge of whether the stuff is up to spec. It does not sound like it to me. What does you roofer think? You will rarely get a manufacturer or contractor admit to faulty materials or workmanship. They will always try to blame you / others. From a legal standpoint your claim would be against whoever you bought from, but the manufacturer may choose to step up and get it sorted so they don't lose face. Good luck!

Once you have felt and batten the roof should be fairly watertight. You may get the odd drip through a nail hole or leak through a tricky detail. More so if it is very windy or extended rain. What make was the membrane?

uPVC is a better insulator than aluminium, so no real surprise. It is not as strong, so often has chunkier section sizes and often needs reinforcing with steel.

+1 The more cash you have, the less you will fret. You will already have enough to worry about.

Ah, right. I have used this before but never heard it called HCF. With the holes you can hold some ply underneath with an acro and fill in with some concrete.

What is HCF? Not something I have heard of.

Have a look at the Sonos reviews on Trustpilot and make up your mind if their customers are fibbing: https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.sonos.com

I have some Sonos stuff. The amp gets very hot, so I suspect uses a fair bit of juice. Startup from power on is painfully slow. They also lose signal every now and then and don't always group properly, even though they all have CAT5 wiring. I don't rate it and was really annoyed when they wrote to suggest they were retiring some models. Bet they will be wanting a subscription next. I have an Arcam amp and it is still good 20 years on.

These were cased steel piles. They tend to be concrete filled.

I think they may be finger jointed. You see it on window frames etc.

I like the plastic feet. Makes the units easy to adjust and often the plinth clips on. Once adjusted, two small screws stops them moving. Also you have lots of space to run cables, dishwasher feeds etc. I like to have sockets under units on flex, which makes appliances easy to install.

Can you rotate the tray 180? Failing that, get one with the waste in a different location.

Charlie DIYte did a decent review of plasterboard fixings. Insulated plasterboard at about 25 mins in.

You need to see what the fire service want. Can you improve access? They will sometimes concede a bit and relax their requirements.

The first layer you could do with blocks but you won't have 50mm. You can get concrete block spacers. Second layer metal deck chairs tied down. Shop around for prices.

Torch the house and use the insurance money to get a house with proper drainage.

This is Canadian Western Red Cedar untreated, 15 years post installation.

You can get adapters for clay to plastic.

Still a few bits to do. Looks neat enough to my untrained eye. Can you get the chimney in pic 1 pointed while the scaffold is up?

Yes you can build over them. You may need some access, like a sealed lid inspection chamber depending on the pipe runs. Not an issue with carpet or vinyl as you can relay. Tiles can be accommodated almost invisibly. Timber floor you will need to get it fitted to allow for access.

A friend who does gates and access often suggests wiring for a socket at the gate end. I think it is so he can plug in his charger and make tea when he comes back to service them!

Concrete blocks or medium density aggregate blocks will be much better than Celcon.