andreas

I've back-filled the timber / masonary join as it was not great, that is now rock solid as you say. Would you trim back the plaster layer a bit and SBR the sand/cement underneath before scrim tape or just go straight on old plaster? Trying to keep skim to minimum.

The timber structure already exists, just needs re-skinning as the attempt the person made at plasterboard fitting was poor to begin with and has now got damage to it as well. My concern is the join to the existing plastered wall. I can skim the whole wall with a thin skim but not board the entire wall due to coving that I'd rather not remove (I'll never get a match). I want to avoid the plaster cracking down the join after skimming if possible.

Excuse the drawing, no architect here ha. Blue lines are block walls of room that are sand/cement/plaster finish. At some point someone made a boxed in area (red colour) for services. The covering of the box is a bit crap, out of alignment with the block wall and damaged. I am going to strip off and put new plasterboard covering on then skim all the walls where the pink lines are. What is the best way to join the plasterboard to the existing sand/cement/plaster finish, where the green arrow points? The existing plaster on the block wall is damaged on that join but the sand/cement underneath is fine. I was thinking chip off a couple of inches of plaster, SBR the sand/cement mix, apply mesh tape over plasterboard edge / sand cement then skim whole wall?

Thanks I'll look for 75mm as well. What brand / product did you go for?

I've just discovered that my joists are actually 91mm. I'm thinking 80mm PIR now, because I cannot be bothered to trim pockets out every metre so that the PIR can sit down over the sleeper walls!

Top of airbricks sit level with top of joists, I was thinking of retrofitting a scoop somehow to direct it under, but it's a bit tight to the first sleeper wall. Any PIR in particular, or just "Any PIR"? I see so many different types even though they all seem near identical

We have to replace some rotten floor joists and floorboards in a downstairs room on a renovation. If I am reading correctly, if you take up all the floorboards you have to install insulation in that room? The joists are 100mm depth on sleeper walls, the distance between the bottom of the joist and the concrete oversite is 120mm. What would be a good option for PIR install and at what thickness, balancing cost and performance? I have read multiple conflicting measurements, some say leave at least 150mm between underside of PIR and concrete, so would be limited to 70mm if correct?

Yes that it very doable.

I was thinking helical before I found out how many other types are available. The pillar is obviously weakened but not fragile, the window installer drilled into it for the window fixings so I think I should be fine drilling. I may sort the mortar out first to give it a bit further strength back? I am not sure on how many ties to put in or where though.

We have a narrow pillar between two windows - 1.5 bricks width, 1m height. The brickwork has nothing above, just the soffit sat on it. One of the windows had to be replaced, during which the pillar was disturbed causing several courses of mortar to hairline crack, the installer said that pillar appears to have no wall ties at all into the ash-block inner leaf but only told me this after they had finished work. The wall ties around the rest of the house were checked previously and are in very good condition so it does sound like the installer is correct that they might be missing. What would be the best type of remedial wall ties to fit and how many would you recommend, at what spacing? After fitting I was intending to take out around 50% of the depth of mortar and re-pointing the pillar to finish up.

would get 2 coats done as usual I just was not sure if there would be any issue with re-skimming a wall that's already been skimmed on top of the original plaster.

I had 2 walls partially re-skimmed, above cabinets, due to damage caused removing tiles. They did an okay job, scored and sealed the walls first and put 2 coats over. It was not a great job though a bit uneven. Plan has now changed and cabinets are being removed. Due to unevenness of upper section I am thinking to have the whole wall re-skimmed completely. Is it O.K. to keep skimming a wall? At the moment upper section has brick > base render > original plaster > skim plaster (about 4mm thick) so would then have a second skim assume around 4mm thick on top of that. If O.K. to do any extra precautions or steps?

I do not know if treated or not. House is mid 60s we think. Do you think the foaming PU is strong enough?

I do like to worry about nothing haha. I will try and get some pictures this evening when home from work.

Thank you I had seen those but I cannot slide the lower lip in below joist without damaging ceiling below, and notch in top of beam and has pipes in so I could not put a full top one in. The glued ply scabbing was suggested to me as I can slide in through lifted boards but they do not know about glue on rough sawn timber and I cannot find clear answer.