andreas

Thanks I'll look for 75mm as well. What brand / product did you go for?

I've just discovered that my joists are actually 91mm. I'm thinking 80mm PIR now, because I cannot be bothered to trim pockets out every metre so that the PIR can sit down over the sleeper walls!

Top of airbricks sit level with top of joists, I was thinking of retrofitting a scoop somehow to direct it under, but it's a bit tight to the first sleeper wall. Any PIR in particular, or just "Any PIR"? I see so many different types even though they all seem near identical

We have to replace some rotten floor joists and floorboards in a downstairs room on a renovation. If I am reading correctly, if you take up all the floorboards you have to install insulation in that room? The joists are 100mm depth on sleeper walls, the distance between the bottom of the joist and the concrete oversite is 120mm. What would be a good option for PIR install and at what thickness, balancing cost and performance? I have read multiple conflicting measurements, some say leave at least 150mm between underside of PIR and concrete, so would be limited to 70mm if correct?

Yes that it very doable.

I was thinking helical before I found out how many other types are available. The pillar is obviously weakened but not fragile, the window installer drilled into it for the window fixings so I think I should be fine drilling. I may sort the mortar out first to give it a bit further strength back? I am not sure on how many ties to put in or where though.

We have a narrow pillar between two windows - 1.5 bricks width, 1m height. The brickwork has nothing above, just the soffit sat on it. One of the windows had to be replaced, during which the pillar was disturbed causing several courses of mortar to hairline crack, the installer said that pillar appears to have no wall ties at all into the ash-block inner leaf but only told me this after they had finished work. The wall ties around the rest of the house were checked previously and are in very good condition so it does sound like the installer is correct that they might be missing. What would be the best type of remedial wall ties to fit and how many would you recommend, at what spacing? After fitting I was intending to take out around 50% of the depth of mortar and re-pointing the pillar to finish up.

would get 2 coats done as usual I just was not sure if there would be any issue with re-skimming a wall that's already been skimmed on top of the original plaster.

I had 2 walls partially re-skimmed, above cabinets, due to damage caused removing tiles. They did an okay job, scored and sealed the walls first and put 2 coats over. It was not a great job though a bit uneven. Plan has now changed and cabinets are being removed. Due to unevenness of upper section I am thinking to have the whole wall re-skimmed completely. Is it O.K. to keep skimming a wall? At the moment upper section has brick > base render > original plaster > skim plaster (about 4mm thick) so would then have a second skim assume around 4mm thick on top of that. If O.K. to do any extra precautions or steps?

I do not know if treated or not. House is mid 60s we think. Do you think the foaming PU is strong enough?

I do like to worry about nothing haha. I will try and get some pictures this evening when home from work.

Thank you I had seen those but I cannot slide the lower lip in below joist without damaging ceiling below, and notch in top of beam and has pipes in so I could not put a full top one in. The glued ply scabbing was suggested to me as I can slide in through lifted boards but they do not know about glue on rough sawn timber and I cannot find clear answer.

I have lifted some floorboards that were butchered by some one in the past and have found that a couple of the joists have been notched badly. Not really bad but I would like to add strength back for peace of mind. I have read about scabbing using structural glue and ply either side of the joists but my question is that the joists are rough sawn and I had always been told that for good glue joints wood should be smooth. Is there a particular glue that would be ok on rough sawn timber?

I am replacing a couple of radiators with column radiators, they're mounted on the wall just need to put tails and TRV's, using Drayton TRV4 tails. What is your preference for sealing them? I have only ever used PTFE tape before but I've been seeing people use liquid PTFE which looks a lot simpler but it is trouble-free? Anything else better? My main question though is that the tails do not go in so that the threads are fully hidden. There are 2-3 threads left exposed even test installing without any sealant. I don't want to over-tighten them and try and force them deeper so would like to know if that is common. The panel radiators I have put in else where the tails could be wound in by hand until they disappeared into the radiator until PTFE had been applied!

Are there any requirements ~ regulatory or otherwise ~ around central heating drain points? We have to replace a leaking section of heating system pipe. It is the lowest point under the floor causing issue so complete drain down coming, but no drain points at all currently so going to be fun. Part of what has to be taken up to repair is an area with a raised floor that could be lifted easily at any time. I was thinking I could put a valve under that section so I could reach down and open it from inside and the flow fun through an open ended pipe sticking out the wall. Or I could put a valve in both flow and return and T them both into the same pipe that goes outside if that would be an advantage. Any requirement for valve type? Was thinking a gate valve rather than a drain point so it can be attached permanently to the exit pipe but is there something better?