Mr Punter

Afternoon @joth and welcome. I am always interested to read what people are doing with existing buildings, what are the challenges and what solutions are being explored. You may want to look at doing a blog at some stage, as it keeps all the details of your project in one place.

I hate doing this sort of job, so Mrs Punter is assigned to the task, equipped with https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-commercial-sticky-stuff-remover-1ltr/8648x#_=p I think it may be easier for you to unscrew the plasterboard so you can get to the tape more easily. You could use something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-window-scraper-3/56292#_=p to help, but careful not to gouge.

I have found limestone is a PITA to keep clean. Have you looked at the porcelain alternatives?

We have lift off hinges that came with the doorsets. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/royde-and-tucker-h101-hi-load-lift-off-hinge-100x88x3mm-right-hand-zinc-plated-pair-990168 I guess the doorset people get a good deal.

As above or you could write a polite letter...

I have built on a site with clay soil and a variable / high water table. All fine and dry during ground works but towards completion it rained lots. After the rain, even a hole dug for a tree would fill with water as you dug. Ground water made its way into foul drains via not perfect seals in plastic inspection chamber risers. If you can get some drainage under the floor, leading to an external drain, it would be worthwhile. Make sure there is no way the flow could be reversed!

Cut them 10mm narrower, fit the whole lot, then foam them all in. Next day, trim surplus foam and tape joins. Tape to the studs as well. Wear a dust mask and goggles. There is no shame in using the rips up, if you foam them in and tape them.

Are you adding framing to the wall and fixing plasterboard to that? Blockwork looks well pointed up but it is vital that no outside air gets in behind the plasterboard.

The finance cost is 5%, not 0.5%.

This would be typical for one of our developments: Profit 17% Acquisition cost includes SDLT, survey, valuations and legal fees. 32.5% Construction costs (to include S106 / CIL). 40% Professional fees. 4% Disposal fees. 1.5% Finance costs. 5%

My son used to work on Rogue Traders, setting up the recording equipment. Quite a few of the stings were a joint venture between BBC and Trading Standards, so the footage was used by both and shot to their specifications. If the case with the OP is fraud it should be reported to police and Trading Standards, as it is a criminal offence. It would be best to present them with fully documented evidence to support the allegations.

Unless you foresee mobility issues, 2 storey will be cheaper.

Our doors are 75mm thick. We have Ultion locks with thumb turn. They do a padlock too. There used to be guidance that thumb turns should be used on front doors and also that egress windows must not be lockable. Probably now withdrawn.

A great looking job @Cpd. I can see how careful setting out is crucial for this.

Can you have a thumb turn on the inside? Or an escutcheon outside?

Non material is a change that does not alter the footprint or elevational outline and does not increase overlooking or alter the visual impact, so window and door sizes and locations are typical for this. Other changes - like change roof pitch a bit, move external walls a small amount but leaving the scheme fairly much as per the approved scheme can be dealt with as a minor amendment. Bigger changes need a fresh planning application.

The stuff they used is like a hard rubber when cured.

5mm sealant is not at all unusual. I would go for a decent bead all round. I have go some glass panels fitted to the river wall and there is about 15mm mastic either side of of the glass.

It should be done as a non-material amendment and is fairly simple. There is not normally a consultation period. It does not result in a new planning consent. Should get a decision withing a month but will probably take 2.

The grid mat stuff is really expensive. Can you just put this adjacent to the road and also in the turning areas? The remainder should be fairly stable if it is just being driven straight over.

My experience with working prior to pre commencement conditions approved is that it depends on the work and the condition, so, for example, if you excavate for foundations without having all the external finishes signed off they will let it go. If you mess up the road when you should have submitted a wheelwashing scheme for approval you will get done. Like @Russell griffiths said, why not just get them signed off so you can work undisturbed?

Ours was less than 100mm insulation - it may have been 50mm. Below ground we stuck an extra 100mm on the outside and we only did ICF for the basement with the rest in timber frame. Here it is with the timber plate. It worked well with this brand of ICF as it fitted into the profiles just like the polystyrene.

Using this approach, is there any issue with sound travelling between the rooms - along the plasterboard?

I have done this with Polarwall. We just fixed coach screws like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-10-x-75mm-50-pack/9897g into the back of the timber plate at 400 ctrs so it is locked into the concrete. You could add another timber to the front if you want to hang the joists from the top flange, but joist hangers may work out cheaper.

The roof is OK as will be the skylights if they are correctly installed. Once you have the placed sealed up you will be able to see if you have an issue. You need to make sure all the junctions are completed and that DPCs, DPMs, flashings, copings etc are all correctly detailed and installed.