Mr Punter

Get a topographic survey done if you have not already. Ask them to include the neighbouring buildings. Your architect can then easily add the proposed elevation of your buildings to create a context elevation. The survey will prove invaluable throughout.

I have a Makita rail saw. It was used to cut Fermacell wall board with a vacuum attached. One of the labourers cut through the edge of one of the rails so they now only work nicely for 1400 long cuts. Quite a good tool but it is mains powered and comes in a big makpac case so good if you set yourself up to do a fair bit with it, otherwise a cordless with a fence works for most things.

Hi @deuce22 you may want to edit your earlier post as it starts with stuff to do with dentistry. Also where you have your drawing, perhaps remove your address.

I still can't work out why your Ubiquiti Unify APs did not work out.

Loss of privacy is usually to do with overlooking and the planners are particularly concerned with windows having views of private rear gardens and can sometimes be dealt with y making such windows fixed shut obscure glass up to 1700m from ffl. The sunlight is a bit more subjective and if it is an issue you may have to produce a daylighting study to justify that the scheme does not cause excessive overshadowing to the rear garden or reduce the light to existing rooms to an unacceptable extent.

I have seen these used by cable TV installs where the wire comes through the wall. Can you post a picture of the finished fitting if you go ahead with it? I really like the one in the first post but the circular ceiling recess looks like mission impossible.

My guess was that it said "Prayer room" before it was redacted, but I couldn't work it out as it is only the size of a cupboard.

Any chance of a large porch to: A) stop all the heat escaping when your groceries are delivered / someone is at the door and you need to communicate but not let them in B) give those in the kitchen / living / upstairs landing some privacy from anyone calling or entering

I can see the appeal of feet and inches for framing. 16 or 24 inches on center is what it is all about for the Yanks. Funny that there are still lots wood based sheets in imperial sizes, but not plasterboard.

I think the tackers are given a price and supplied materials by the boss, who goes with whatever is cheapest. They have their own tools, but I guess most don't have collated screw guns and the boss buys individual screws cheap enough. For commercial jobs on metal frame I can see why collated is standard.

Did the tree make much difference?

Have a look at https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/resources/foundation-depth-calculator/ These are, I think, quite risk averse, but that is no surprise.

I have the whole house version of the Combimate, (cost £135.80 inc delivery and a years Combiphos) where you fill the container completely with the Combiphos balls. They are £25 per 800g delivered and need changing once a year.

I can see you are looking at building a 4 bed house of around 250m2. Do you have a budget set? This will cost between £200k to £600k depending on whether you do it all yourself to a basic standard or hand it to someone to deliver a top spec building. You will need to select an architect for this project. Shop around very carefully. Look at the style of building they have designed and if you are able to, talk to their clients. Look to apply for detailed planning in, perhaps, six months time, as your architect (if they are any good) will probably have a number of projects on the go and the design is often an iterative process, as is the planning application.

I would run the brickwork up to 25mm from the timber frame return. On the timber clad wall, form a corner from 2 pieces of larch ripped down to 75mm. Butt 1 side of this corner to the brickwork and the other fix to your timber batten having run some dpc vertically. Bring out the timber battens on this section to the same depth of your batten + corner. You may need to add an extra stud or 2 to the timber frame to support the corner.

Good for high ceilings too.

This will make the UFH very slow to react. Also there will be heat lost to the ceiling below. The optimum concrete / screed or whatever is probably between 50 and 150mm, with a bit of insulation under to stop the heat going downwards.

Concrete is heavy and expensive and that is a very deep makeup for residential. If it is deflection or sound insulation you are interested in, compare it with timber / engineered joist solutions. 15mm plasterboard is better than 12.5 as it is less likely to sag.

Thanks @JSHarris that is good to know, as I prefer not to need to add a caveat saying "The charge point will only be compliant if you install a TT island and you will be responsible for any damage to underground services."

@JSHarris & @ProDave I know it is off topic but this is one of the charge points. Would it be unsafe to use?

I have had 7 charge Rolec BasicCharge pedestals installed on residential driveways without TT islands, as there was too great a risk of damaging other services where they were fairly congested underground. Is the risk just to do with a neutral fault on the network that is undetected?

I make it 170mm dig down from the IC cover (but 15mm wont make much difference).

@lizzie what is the difference? I found the kettle furred up before we fitted ours.

I understood that it was 45m between inspection chambers. I also think you could just put a rodding eye for the foul and not bother with the surface water. Ask Marley or Polypipe technical for backup if required. Easier to send them a drawing than mess with digging up drains.

I have a Combimate, where you have to change some magic marbles in once a year. The kettle does not fur up but there is still residue where cold water evaporates such as in the tray of the fridge water dispenser, in spite of the fridge also having a water filter.