Mr Punter

If you just use the second one it will be OK as that is the one you implemented. Confirm it with a letter attached to the application.

@pocster if you post a floor plan we can see if a pump station will work. If you have already cast the floor slab it may need a bit of breaking out though.

Does anyone have a link to see how this is done in practice? I would be really interested to see how they make up the shutters, anchor them, construction joints, grout checks, concrete spec, how to pour and striking. I know how it is for casting a concrete wall, but facing an existing wall would be quite different.

It is an interesting idea. The pictures look fantastic. I think it will be expensive and time consuming and if the finish is not spot on you will need to take it off and start again (or make the room 1" smaller!). If you get anywhere near a decent result I take my hat off to you.

If the drawing is based on a topographic survey you should see features like walls, drain covers, trees, kerbs and so on so you have somewhere to start from.

I would change the lower left set of doors for a window, flip the kitchen on the horizontal axis to put the sink under the window and make the peninsular worktop 90cm deep so you can use it as a breakfast bar. I am not sure why there is a post in the middle of the room but at the moment it is impeding access to the stairs. If it cannot be moved you may be able to lose a tread at the bottom and add one at the top.

If it is not too late, a small pump station would be better - much quieter and more reliable. I would rather burn the house down than live with a Saniflo.

If the property is brick and block, I would stick with that for the extension as timber frame and SIPs work best when starting from scratch.

I like the concept of near handleless doors. You could fit some soft close power hinges. Not sure about the magnetic though.

I recently received an email from Premier Guarantee warning about the use of MGO boards. The type of board you choose will depend on what the render system manual specifies. If you are selecting non-BBA, check with your warranty provider and BC. I would choose a BBA system and a board like Bluclad.

Regarding highways, as you already have a live consent, unless the access is altered for the new proposal they will be unable to object.

https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/self-build/ but there are several who offer this

Gosh @Sue B that budget is a major challenge. Lots of work on the design side can really help keep costs down though. Try not to get wedded to a particular build system at this stage. As you know, the shape and form of the house can have a big impact on build costs.

NHBC provide structural warranties, which are required by most lenders. There are other structural warranties available from other providers that are aimed at self builders, so you do not need to be NHBC, just signed up with a warranty. LABC have one, but shop around.

Just to clarify, do you propose the windows to be white and only the front doors and the bifolds at the back to be anthracite? Was there a condition in the planning consent that asked you to submit materials samples for approval? If the answer is YES to the first and NO to the second I would just carry on and fit them as you suggest.

If you can't bring the whole wall out, just do the side up to the front of the shower tray. I will look OK when tiled. If you just extend the tray at the end you may have issues with the shower screen not fitting.

What, no WC?

It looks as if the wall is all on your land and between your boundary and the road is a pavement. I am not sure what you want to achieve - privacy, daylight / sunlight, additional usable outside space, security, kerb appeal? If possible, discuss with the planning office. You could probably have 1m high and later add trellis on top.

https://www.toolstation.com/forgefast-multi-purpose-self-drilling-wood-screw/p34893 any good?

Depending on the external finish, you can either use a mastic seal or Compriband expanding tape. The benefit of the Compriband is that it allows vapour to escape, provides a weathertight seal and allows for timber expansion / contraction. It is expensive though.

Do an application for removal or variation of condition. The fee is nominal. If your application is not successful they will need to give a good reason and you will be able to appeal. The PD Rights condition can normally be justified if the site is intensively developed, which yours clearly is not.

Looks great, as does the paving. Are they light wells at the front?

+1 to @PeterW it is there for site visits, not to indicate the visual impact of the proposal.

I think you could manage on your own as long as you have a lifter and a decent tower. A lot of up and down though! Assembling the tower single handed is a pain, as are the rest of the jobs. Maybe plan it so you lift up a board, screw one end, come back down, secure the other end with a prop, lift the next board, screw two ends at once. Although it is strictly banned, it is so much easier to get someone to carefully move the tower while you are up there.