Mr Punter

The probes are fairly quick and easy to do, especially if you only need to probe 2.5 metres. I would want to make sure the solid strata was uniform around the foundation extents, with no voids. The probe table you have would have been more reassuring if the soil was more consistent, whereas there is very little capacity for the first 2.0m. I doubt there will be much cost difference between probes and trial pits. I would want at least 4. If the results vary a lot, you may need to install piles.

I am with @Bozza on this. Had they decided to scrap the scheme just as you were finishing the build as they needed to make savings I could understand the ire. During this pandemic, lots of people have lost their livelihoods through no fault of their own. Waiting 20 days for the final part of your VAT refund is not a crime against humanity and democracy.

You can have an access point for rodding at the base of the stack. All the internal stuff will have a water trap to stop sewer smells.

That is very rare. They sound like a very good firm - well done them!

There could be quite a lot of money at stake here and so the OP should seek professional advice rather than rely on the opinions of unqualified forum members. Perhaps he can come back to update the thread when he has been so advised, for the benefit of others who have similar situations.

Yes they will and it is far more risky than scaffold, which was already erected. I can't see them wanting to strip the roof to replace the clipped verge tiles without scaffold, although I doubt they would do it anyway without charging £££ extra.

Do they always have a plastic frame?

The main contractor should have got you to approve the works first before striking the scaffold. To me, the broken tile needs attention and the rest is fine, although they could trim the ridge tile 30mm.

Only the broken tile. Did you think the end ridge tile was too long? Who authorised that the scaffold be struck before the roof was inspected and approved?

Well spotted. Get your ladder and up you go. You may find one of those ladder stand off brackets will make it easier if you need to unclip a section.

It gets a tick from me!

I quite like hook fixing as the tiles can't slip down. Some dislike the look but I like that they don't rattle in the wind.

I don't like it when the surface is too polished. It doesn't take paint well.

Could you give any indication of the costs for this, given that the OP is only interested in solar overheating?

I would not expect him to have to cut every block. Was it just the one course before facework? Are the levels crucial? Normally they can make up a surprising amount with a combination of laying the blocks flat, thicker or thinner mortar courses, brick instead of block etc. I dislike being hit with extras and have had a number of disputes over this with various trades. I like it to be agreed in advance on a price. Do that next time if you can. If you keep him on, make sure you both know what is needed in advance at each stage, otherwise it will be extra because the scaffold isn't ready / he was held up by the chippies / the materials are not on site etc. If his work is spot on and he has left it neat and tidy, you may just need to suck it up. He is not the first builder to have issues with communication and aggression.

That sounds a good approach. Be very conservative with the amount of glazing on upper floors if they contain bedrooms. Go for just adequate daylighting. There are a few firms and software packages that can do an overheating risk assessment - they do a basic one with you design SAP assessment. PHPP has a spreadsheet approach and I understand it models the building throughout the year.

If you can do the plasterboarding it is much easier. The intumescent paint is very expensive, messy and needs loads of coats to achieve the design thickness. Use Fireline plasterboard. It is much better value than Glasroc. Depending on the steel section, you may need 2 layers. There is a reference table in the White Book C03 Steel Encasements.

He will need to serve notice on you. If you do not accept, the issue is considered in dispute and you can then appoint a surveyor at his expense. If he starts work without serving a notice or having an Award in place you can get an injunction from the High Court. It will cost you initially but you can reclaim the costs plus damages as Judges do not look kindly on people going behind the Act.

Just give them the current deeds and sort the rest out when you sell part. You can't "split" a title easily. You need to transfer part to A.N Other person or firm. The part you transfer will be removed from the title with the charge from the LA for the CIL.

A perfect message to clear the air for a harmonious and peaceful coexistence. Well done. Did he stay for drinkies?

It must be very tempting to fell those trees!

The Party Wall Act gives rights to owners to undertake works, so there is no right for the adjoining owner to refuse but their position should be protected by the Award. If you want to increase costs for the Building Owner desiring works, appoint your own surveyor (after you have been served appropriate notices) as the general rule is the Building Owner will pay both / all surveyors.

If it is a party fence wall and will increase overshadowing on you property I would not agree to it. Do they need planning consent? How was the drain affected by the Party Wall Act? Must have been very deep and below their foundation level?

The Illbruck / Compriband products seem like a crazy price. Having seen some non-branded alternatives installed however, I would pay the extra money for the proper stuff, especially if it is installed in a location that will later be inaccessible .

I thought site access was bad, so smaller units would be easier to move. Blockwork is good as it will not rot. You could do a single skin of 140mm medium density blockwork, left fair faced internally with external EPS insulation and thin coat render on the outside. You could DIY the insulation if you wanted to save money. A pitched roof is likely to be lower risk.