Mr Punter

Is it easier to use a breaker, then make good?

This may explain the damp issues in your other thread. Any mortar will be better than the crack. Does not need to be strong or hard.

If you had a full structural survey and it was possible to see the damp and the raised paving without intrusion you may have a case but you have waited 6 years so I doubt you have any chance.

If you think the fence was erected 4 years ago and is on your land and she does not live in the other property, just erect a fence where you think it should be, take the other one down and let her take action (expensive) should she wish. When faced with the actual legal costs most people will not bother. It does beg the question why you did not do this straight away?

https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=4

Potential £££, time and much pain. And £££

It will be a pain to get a neat cut. Probably skin your knuckles tying.

10mm seems excessive and may look crappy. As long as it is just visible it will be OK. Could see no mention of 10mm projection in NHBC. The drawing shows a slight downstand, which will not happen with the stuff on a roll.

Yes this needs stripping and replacing. Probably some structure as well if it is sagging. Did your roofer give you a quote? He knows what he is doing.

EPS is tried and tested. There will be a sweet spot on thickness and it could be the 70mm your builder suggests. Normally stuck on plus some mechanical fixings, then thin coat render / mesh. Moving the windows outwards towards the insulation is helpful.

Should be stainless. It is worth just getting some. If the membrane is on and you have scaffold it is a fairly quick job.

Can you not fit a staircase? And some edge protection. And tidy up.

Won't be much fun lowering that down and getting it out though

This can also be a real pain with timber frame where the openings are already there. Bricks and blocks can vary considerably in size.

We recently had a bench made in birch ply. I like the look of the lamination.

But when you run over them with a telehandler they crumble to dust.

Why not ditch the gas and get a decent induction hob? Failing that, def a changeover valve as it will always be raining and 5 minutes before you serve up when the gas runs out.

Can you find out who supplied the beams? They will probably have a design dept who can do an as built drawing. As long as the spans are not more that 4.0m and there are no loadbearing walls it is very straightforward.

Having seen the pictures, if this is in a good location could you demolish and rebuild? With careful planning you could build a near-replica.

Often eaves height is more of a target than ridge height.

I would suggest reduction pro rata per m2 but in negotiating allow them, say, 50mm as a tolerance, so they are only penalised for the other 190mm.

You need to look at every option and rule nothing out. Get some more quotes for the dry rot. Bear in mind that costs for this sort of work can spiral as more stuff becomes apparent. Can you sell the building as is? What price? Can you borrow from friends / family? If you do get to do the place up, could you rent out rooms to help pay back the loan? Bear in mind that your house is still probably in better nick than @scottishjohn's and I reckon you are a fair bit younger than him! Good luck!

It is down to the design. All the best practice says warm roof, everything above the rafters. The reality is there is often a height restriction so it is insulation between joists / rafters and a bit underneath, but this detail is only suggested for conversion of existing roofs. 450 should be OK. Don't forget you also need a 1:50 fall which can add a little. Are your floor plans finalised?

With a 220 joist you can have 300 floor zones. Depends on spans and structure. What is the build up for your flat roof? For a proper warm roof you really should place the insulation over the timbers, so 350 looks not doable.

Either will be fine. I think the Siberian larch varies in durability depending on where it is grown. Denser in cold climates.