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Benjamin Whitehouse

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  1. If I were to GRP it, is all leadwork replaced with timber+GRP? I’ve worked with GRP and EPDM on cabin roofs before but nothing as complicated as per photos!
  2. Definitely bodged. Existing lead seems sound though. I’m planning to sell so I thought I could address the leak area and replace the old copper, then paint the lot?
  3. Hi, I have a couple of questions about my existing (mostly lead) flat roof. It is allowing water in at the chimney party wall area and the copper section. The base is dry and solid wood planks. 1) Would it be possible to retain the existing lead and weld new lead work around the chimney and party wall join, and replace the copper with lead? 2) The channel behind the chimney is too narrow and I would like the base extending to 300mm under both eaves so presumably I will have to add some OSB here? 3) Can I join a lead alternative to the existing lead to save money? Images here: https://ibb.co/LYswRV3 https://ibb.co/QFMQFmn https://ibb.co/64JpNQ5 https://ibb.co/vhMPmfz Thank you
  4. Ok, I was hoping there might be a primer I can apply over the paint to provide a key: cement, microgobetis bond and a handful of and sand with some water, mixed to a slurry and applied with a roller, for example. What would be the best way to remove the paint? It does not scrape off easily.
  5. Hi, I have a patchy render on the front of my house. It is sound but shows lots of old repairs etc. It is painted. I would like to try a tyrolean style of finish with tyrolean gun, as cheaply as possible. I would prefer to pre-dye the finish white if possible to avoid having to paint it. - What is the cheapest way to prime? - What is the cheapest finish? Thanks
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