nod
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Everything posted by nod
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Brickwork and Blockwork Labour Cost Estimator
nod replied to MortarThePoint's topic in Brick & Block
I would allow more on your day rates Or less productivity per hour -
Removing window bay - shortening floor joists
nod replied to andyscotland's topic in General Structural Issues
Yes exactly like that I’ve done this on a number of occasions with bays and replacing rotten joists also Simpson strongtie are ideal for this -
Removing window bay - shortening floor joists
nod replied to andyscotland's topic in General Structural Issues
What I’ve done in the past is cut the bay joists off in-line with internal brick skin (100 mil short of existing) and attach a hoist hanger either side allowing you to add a joist across the former bay Then add hoist hangers to the new timber to carry the cut down bay joists -
Joiner made front door....will it be airtight?
nod replied to Stephen Aitch's topic in Doors & Door Frames
I was talking about hardwood- 12 replies
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Joiner made front door....will it be airtight?
nod replied to Stephen Aitch's topic in Doors & Door Frames
No door seals are simply glued into a router Chanel- 12 replies
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Joiner made front door....will it be airtight?
nod replied to Stephen Aitch's topic in Doors & Door Frames
This is one my friend made for me at our last house Cost me £300 plus the glass It sealed up pretty well But like Joe mine was under cover While we have a large oak canopy on our new house The front door is open to the elements and would be likely to sell or contract One advantage with a timber frame is if the seals become damaged or crack they are very easily replaced Unlike UPVC- 12 replies
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Joiner made front door....will it be airtight?
nod replied to Stephen Aitch's topic in Doors & Door Frames
I would have preferred to use an oak front door to match our oak canopy Ive a friend with a workshop that would have made one for the price of the timber But conceded it wouldn’t be airtight and less so over time Sk I fitted a composite door- 12 replies
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Cut the edges back before it’s sets and skim it in once solid It’s quite normal for bonding to crack on dry surfaces The skim Coat will be Fine as long as you dont let it dry out Best same day as the backing
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10k well spent if you have it
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You could dig a trench and extend the 600 mil pipe across the field into the river It would make the land more useable
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You can have a straight k rend onto the block if you want to bring it down to 30 m2
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With a 10 mil base I presume it’s on block work 40-50 is average Top coat is normally 3 mil
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I simply the pump box in and connected the hose can’t remember seeing a valve
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Send a basic drawing out to building contractors Your right to keep it simple I get lots of drawings to price for and much of the detail is sorted out afterwards Find a contractor that suits you and go through the detail in person In my job I get a lot of fire and soundproofing Some companies what a quote and all the ratings and specs I can spend a couple of day preparing all this only to find out later that my quote has been given to other contractor to quote against
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If you are intending to use the insulation as an outer layer Rather than brick or cement board BC would allow it First reason would be the insulation and fibre mesh are not strong enough without something behind them You can use a bellcast bead on top of the dpc render below or plant bricks slips
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I would worry He will ask what score you need to achieve and be within that
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Useful info
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Ha ha plenty more
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Be careful Checkout company house search
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They are trying it on Tell them no thanks you don’t need any add ons
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I installed this one without any experience of treatment plant Really easy to install No maintenance
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Either way The has and electric tests are for the house not the tenant Pretty much like an MOT on a car
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Yes
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