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My immediate thought was indicating services But I’ve never seen this symbol Four years ago when we where planning our build You could simply pick up the phone and speak to planners yep loads of info But can’t seem to find anything relating to this mark

It’s a side toad on a planning application

Does anyone know what this Mark On the side road signifies

Ours came through in days Everything building is manic at the moment Plus one with Temp

A Parge coat can help with airtightness But you are better making sure that your tackers seal the perimeter when Dot and Dabbing and also round all sockets The and seal the perimeter of the ceiling with acoustic silicone You need to to leave the expansion joint clear If the boards are correctly sealed and air getting into the flood void will have nowhere to go Proving all down lights are are sealed

It’s not like it’s spoiling the view

It does happen But nine Site manager said do your magic ?

No advantage to fixing timber for acoustics Res bar would be a cheaper and quicker option With a layer of 15 mil SB

Just started Framing on a new site today The first nine have see design error

Exactly it really isn’t worth the risk Two Christmases ago we tiled a 200 m2 floor for a Barrister On a screed that had been down a matter of weeks With a bio boiler that was commissioned the day we finished Tiling the floor I pointed out that he would be mad to take a chance on a green screed He just said they needed to be in for. Christmas and would take full responsibly We used Ditra and got away with it As above All commercial have matting on most floors regardless of UFH It really is marvelous stuff cost £4m2 Ditra Adhesive (flex) £1m2 Labour £3.50 m2 My wife laid the 80 m2 in the kitchen area while I was Fitting one of the bathrooms Rollered to an inch of its life

Great information there Onoff I’ve seen this before and assumed it was painted at some stage

You should be parting company with your Architect once you break ground and paid his fee Perhaps the odd phone call if there is an issue with design Once you have paid your fee You own the drawings for your build Most builders are capable of following the drawings without an input from an Architect Unless the Architect assistant has cocked up Which happens quite regularly

Unfortunately there prices won’t be worked out on man hours If building was less busy You would see the rates drop

Your spot on Russ Always matting where there is any likely to be any kind of movement It’s already in the spec before we quote Make no mistake If a tiled floor lifts the whole lot has to come up

I’ve tile onto screed that not properly dried UFH with mat and got away with it We had two jobs where the tiles lifted without matting onto UFH Both cost over 10 k to put right As a contractor it’s not worth the risk It’s a big job to put right once all the kitchen and furniture is in The matting is belts and braces

What do I know I’ve only been running a tiling business for 30 years ?

Always before Dont forget to fire your UFH up before it’s tiled and use matting

Ditra is what I always buy As I get a good deal on it But both fo the same job If you are buying as a one off Dura is cheaper

I’m trying to get started with my second self build I’ve put in an offer this afternoon for a plot wit planning for two But will only build one large house There are issues with a private road we need for access So may need to pay the owner or apply for a different route in It will all cost extra Along with bat bird newt and soil surveys and professional services All to pay for before you get out of the ground Often the price asked bares no resemblance to the worth of the plot I’d start negotiations low as you can always go higher Many on here are all electric With modern technology this is often a good option So forget the gas With such a big plot adding a treatment plant and waste water should be quite cheap The Cil you can normally apply for exemption

You can Dot and dab the insulation board directly onto the brick Then skim the plasterboard face

While Oak is expensive Iroko is long lasting and looks similar and less expensive I used Idigbo for my gates for the same reason Looks very similar to oak Or you could use pressure treated softwood But won’t last

We used I joists and they are absolutely fine I counter battened with 3-1 on the underside To stop floor board creeks Though Posi are handy for the MVHR Which I decided against

The one we removed from our plot had been in twelve years and was ver similar to yours It had two 5 mtr shafts about 6 mtrs apart made up of concrete sewer sections Then a plastic tank