wozza

It should be ok - just ensure that you hold the window when you release the chain as it will swing open / shut. I would hold the window, release the chain, operate the bar, then reconnect the chain and try it. How did you get it into that position? the chain releases the lock before opening the window in normal operation.

You will need to disengage the chain - you should then be able to operate the bar by hand.

Looks good, but I would be worried about the glass end panel - on mine I have a cross brace that comes from the other brace you have.

Where are you based? We used a company called Solus - they have two showrooms, London and Birmingham.

Have you tried a reset - there is a small reset button (hole) in the battery box that needs to be pressed for 8 seconds to reset the window.

Touch wood, mine have all been fine - are they the 240v version? There was a thread a while back, someone had some problems with them getting too warm so he made his own vented surrounds.

Do this, or depending on the age they may have quick release connectors on them. I would be tempted to try some Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2 paint on that ceiling.

I have used a lot of Tikkurila Anti Reflex on ceilings and it is IMHO the best ceiling paint I have used - it is super flat matt - I have also used a lot of Optiva 5 on the walls (6 different colours) and again I rate it as very good.

I would be interested in any answers to this as I am considering doing the opposite. I have lived in my house for 20 years, I want to remove everything form the loft, remove the boards and insulate to a good depth. - My trusses are of a similar size.

I used one of these on each of my trays: No More Leaks Bath & Shower Sealing Kit - YouTube

Sorry but that trim / seal is nasty. Do you really need it?

If using an MF system, you can make your own hangers to whatever length you want. Have a look at MF Ceiling systems - plenty of videos out there and its easy to do. I have three voids, 1 is about 80mm, 1 is about 50mm both on vaulted ceilings and the other isn't really a void as such- I just used the sections (MF5s I think they are) with plastic spacers / packers to counter batten / level the underside of a ceiling that had uneven joists so its now nice and level

Hi, I got my paint from a local supplier Industrial Flooring by Reepol | Epoxy Resin Flooring It was a few years ago now so I cant remember what the actual product was, they were very helpful at the time so perhaps give them a call.

As Saveasteading, has said, it will show all of the imperfections - It might be worth using a SLC first - when I did my old garage I ground it as flat as I could (mega dusty job), I then used car body filler to fill any deep holes. I then did two coats of epoxy floor paint in battleship grey (need a drill paddle to mix the two components) from a local specialist - lasted for years - the only thing I noticed was the small area of the slab that was outside of the garage door and exposed to the sun faded quite a bit. It will chip if you drop something heavy / sharp on it and it can scratch with something sharp, sand grit etc. I watched some professionals do the floors at work a few times and then basically copied them - we have had areas patched / repaired at work (ground off and repainted) in exactly the same colour but it sticks out like a sore thumb, the colour never matches.

@CADjockeyI believe in the UK that its called Lutron RA2 / Pico? I have the in line dimmer (paid about £80 now about £110) and a couple of switches that I purchased a couple of years ago to see how well it worked and to see if it would be ok for my extension. I have have the three areas wired up as standard so I can convert it easily. The idea of using the Pico system was that I could switch each area individually as I can now - but also control everything from one or two even switches and select pre set scenes. I have tested it with a couple of Aurora down lights and it works very well - dims up and down really well, responsive switching. I did not intend to use the controller hub box. The price of the switches has also increased a lot over the last year or so - I need another 8 or so switches and 2 more dimmers to have it set up how I envisaged it would work but we are not using the area properly yet so I am holding off to see if we will actually need them and also as I will also need to justify the cost to SWMBO.

We have a Cemfloor screed with UFH We did not sand. As @nod has said, we coated with SBR then applied Ditra matting before tiling. Does it look like it needs sanding? is there any loose or flaking material on the surface?

Cabinets have 12mm backs, but will go with surface mounted boxes - thanks all

Our Kitchen is going in this week and we need a few sockets fitting into the cabinets for the dishwasher, Quooker tap, vacuum etc. So do we surface mount them in boxes or flush mount using drywall boxes? Surface mount will mean we only need a small hole for the cable to pass through, flush mount will need a 73mm square hole (all will be 1 gang sockets) In our old kitchen I think they cut a large hole for the plug to fit through, then a small 10 mm hole underneath and joined up the two, the socket box then covered the large hole. Any preferences? any pros or cons? do`s or don'ts? Thanks, Wozza.

Look at the McAlpine pan connectors, having recently fitted 3 toilets - I have used a WC-CON8 with a horizontal extension and also a WC-CON8E from the pan to the floor waste, I would be surprised if you were unable to use them rather than a flexi. If you are fitting a concealed cistern wall toilet then you should be able to position the frame / outlet to fit exactly where you want it? I would not fit a flex waste for a toilet on a hidden cistern. I have a Grohe SL Rapid with a Euro pan and its good.

I have just done loads of reading - it looks like the material he has used is 6F2 which is sized from 75mm to dust - all the suppliers websites say it should be topped with a type 1 size material. He also used a lightweight Wacker plate and didn't compact in layers.

Hi All, Looking for your opinions on the sub base that we have had laid. We asked the contractor to excavate the area to the side of the drive (so it can be eventually extended) - and to then to lay the sub base approximately 100mm lower than current drive with a ramp upto the drive and new garage so it can be used until we are ready to lay the block paving. He said he has used "Crushed Concrete" as the sub base "as approved by the local council"- the problem is that it has not compacted very well at all as there is a lot of large material and also a lot of very fine material - and it consists of concrete, tarmac, blocks, bricks, tiles etc. He gave up trying to rake it level before compacting it and he admitted that "there is a lot of big stuff in it" He now wants to try spread some "fines or tarmac planning's" over the top to try compacting it again. We need to be able to drive over it and use the garage (which he was told) What do you think? should we let him try using "fines" over the top? The tape is set at 400mm for scale.

To answer your original question: Gyproc Easifill 60

Can you convert a ground floor room into a bedroom with a bathroom?

Hi @Mandana is your Bora hob recessed into the worktop? - Can I also ask what material the worktop is and how thick it is? Our kitchen and Bora hob is being fitted in August. If you are really worried about scratching your hob, then you can put a sheet of kitchen paper under the pot / pan and it will still work - years back when we bought our first induction hob the kitchen salesman demonstrated the hob with a piece of kitchen paper under the pan to keep it as clean as possible for resale when it was replaced. Our current siemens hob has a lot of scratches after 11 years of abuse but you only really notice them if you look for them.

Batten spacing looks like it is out - starts about the 6th row down, and then its out again further down. Do you have any photos before it was tiled? Are the gutters level? The ridge of the gable looks level so I see no reason why the tiles should not be level. When I did mine I used a few pieces of batten as spacers (all cut to the same length) so the battens were all equally spaced apart from the top row.