MikeSharp01

You must have had the motivation to leave and move north and a bit east - to become one of the forest dwellers.

Hopefully you have not had as many similar moments as our recent prime minister but one may have had!

PS - I was told by a roofer that acid rain sorts it all out, the efflorescence anyway, in the end!

We are cladding our build with the same slates as the roof, which was completed 18months ago - we kept the slates in dry storage, did a corner on Friday and my other half went ballistic, at a distance 2m+ they look great but close up you can see the efflorescence stains and small scratches, only very slight. So now I need to go through 2000 slates and choose the best ones for the front of the house and relegate the stained / scratched ones to high up on the sides (where nobody can see them). I have in the past managed to clean the efflorescence off with a weak vinegar solution. I will get a better picture tomorrow as this one does not really show the issues.

Not sure this is exactly a perfect market as highlighted above some of that fall might be down to Gas costs!

You are right but PowerPoint, that I used to add those trends, only really does straight lined. I hated thermodynamics at Uni - I only did one course and decided my future did not lay in that direction so steered well clear. Even though now it might have been useful I wouldn't have wanted to clutter my brain with it for 40 years only to find it useful now! Respect to those that get it though🤩

That's interesting data. I am curious about the steps at about 09:15 - 09:25 the trends carry on but are stepped lower, does the machine decide it is approaching setpoint and back off (Modulate down)? It does slow It does look like it could get the Flow even higher, for a lower CoP. Have added a few, very crude, lines to help me get it all in my head. I appreciate that the two trends (Power in / Power Out) won't ever meet but I thought is was interesting to see where they are going!

@Alan Ambrose Nope, all very straight forward the Electric (UKPN in our case) people and Openreach all said how much a doddle it was hooking it up. We arranged them so the Gas (Not connected - just a blanked off meter in there) and the electric Meter where on the front on the block accessible to the suppliers and the Electric distribution box and the comms box are behind them (Actually will end up being inside the cycle / bin / ASHP - if we have one, shed so secure. Just to be clear on the Gas situation, we have installed a track pipe from the utilities block into the plant room / utility just in case we, or future owners, want to have gas appliances but for us its a no-no. Once we can get onto the right tariff with octopus we will ask them to remove the meter. If anybody in the future wants to have gas they will have to get it replaced but all the pipework will be there for them ready.

Now all we need is to be able to print them full size - oooops we already can!

If you have superfoil you can get water flowing a long way from the leak... So that may need thinking through as well.

Then, if borrowing to do this work, you need to factor in interest on the loan as part of the cost - which simply, as in easy to understand, pushes the payback time out. People generally don't do a full cost accounting job on such purchases so Net Present Value (NPV) and Rate of Return (RoR) calcs are not performed.

If you are going to do this a structural adhesive, Phenol-Resorcinol Formaldehyde Resin, is the stuff. I have used PU adhesive and this is good enough to create a bond stronger than that within the OSB itself. I assume that wall will be inside so not subject to weather, outside you are going to struggle with OSB almost no matter how you coat it.

They sort of did.

We have 157m2 ( close to 500m2 of wall and roof) and we brought 16 rolls of vana, 2 of profile, only need enough to go around all the windows, and 3 of the 4m wide ( that's a lot but we have about half a roll over) Intello plus.

An old XJS in the garage might be a good idea if the headline in the Telegraph today is anything to go by: "Warning that Chinese electric car ‘invasion’ could paralyse Britain" in short if they don't like us, whenever, they just turn the cars off! Lots of opportunities to cut demand in an instant!

Us too - brilliant to deal with.

Cut a little bit, 5-10 mm of the plastic top you want, take it to someone with a 3D printer, e.g. @Onoff and ask them to print you some lengths for you.

In the end we went with Norrsken, we are very pleased with the windows and the fitting team were excellent. A few snags remain to be sorted - they are due back next week. (We have not done the air test yet so that remains to be seen.) We chose them for some of the reasons you mention, EG roughly price equivalent & slightly better U values but our main reason was that they could do, and Rationel could not, the triangular opening (Turn before Tilt) we wanted at the front - so no glazing bars across the triangle and the glass to glass corner we wanted for our corner window.

Yes one point of isolation for all of it then no chance of a cross feed from anywhere.

Makes sense. You can put a label on either / both saying it must be isolated elsewhere (say where) if adjacent to one or other or neither.

Does not sound like a good plan as the floor will sink because the standard jablite EPS will compress at the joists. If you board it first then jablite it you stand a chance but I would check the compressive strength / square area value even then.

I think what I meant to say is don't use the shotgun satellite coax as this is not as good a bog standard TV Coax so only the mid range spec 1.25mm (2.5db loss per 10m) is going to be significantly better than bog standard coax. After that you would probably be better off paying for and installing fibre optic links, with associated converters, to move the signals around the place - almost zero loss, very pricey and broadcast quality. Oh but hang on if you have FTTP then you can get 8 x 8K streams down a 1Gb connection - should be enough for anyone, assuming you have the wall space for 8 x 8K TVs in your house and you don't need any coaxial cable at all!

Actually the sat cable is just a slightly higher spec, other than the shotgun stuff, than standard TV aerial cable which, unless you have very long runs, will be fine anyway. What ever Cable you use make sure it is low loss and has the correct impedance (75 Ohm).

That feels a lot unless you are going to use some of them for HDMI over Cat6 - what was your thinking? You can always put a mini switch / hub behind the TV if you need more points. We are also on First Fix and I worry about fixing TV points on walls as deciding the best place for a TV somewhat fixes the way the room will turn out.

Did you mean PV (Photo Voltaic) or could this be Solar Thermal (ST)!