MikeSharp01

Sounds like a good plan. You can also use your skills to build well insulated cheap to run homes with traditional brick technology - it can be done. @nods idea is worth following up but you need to own it rather than them own you.

Seems that way does it not. Given the discussions here across a large number of threads the ASHP silver bullet seems to be alchemically altered to runny stuff when it comes into contact with the retrofit challenge across the technical, commercial & environmental dimensions.

If that glows in the dark it may be the solution to all our problems - no hang on.

As I understand it it is from the finished surface so you should be OK. Make sure you put the warning tape at the correct level above the cable, at higher levels as well, so directly beneath the slab if like and put it in ducting if you have some. If you are in Kent I can let you have a length as I have a bit left over.

This is obviously a manual intervention as it says 'Actual Read:' rather than 'Smart actual read'. There must be a handover figure that both companies agree so Octapus know what your reading was the minute they took over and SSE closed which should have come from the meter at midnight on the change over day. I wonder if there is some sort of internal, between the two companies, which sorts this out post factum but I doubt it.

The people who take part in the test by the looks of it.

Looking very good! PS Serious site signage.

Who is 'them' and that old chestnut - knowledge was never free, you always needed to earn it and then you can decide to either sell it or give it away! Lets get back on topic!

Good idea and it will mostly be nonsense. BTW the FMG no longer exists it was subsumed into the OMC when BH became a Limited Company. I guess, however, that you are referring to the Moderators who have used chatGPT in several places to get us out of possibly litigious situations with people posting copyright material - no names no pack drill!

Ho Ho - I see he picked himself up - that's education for you!

What you are not picking them up on case usage in the unit or did I miss it somewhere?

Great devices - but I do worry how often they phone home! I am working my way through the Rpi Pico W toolchain, back to the 80s without a windows IDE, to wean myself off the D32 Pro I have built my ptype kit around. Alongside the Rpi MQTT node red etc. The particulate monitoring will be a great addition - but I am not sure I want to know with my cooking skills😁

That's an obsolete unit now so perhaps worth stocking up on filters while there are still some about. The balance thing is ensuring you are not getting too greater positive or negative pressure in the house. So as long as total extract l/s approximated to total supply l/s things are ok, some on here have advocated very slight positive pressure I dimly recall but controlling for that would be a fun project. The fan settings don't tell you much because the of the varying amount of work done in pulling equal amounts of air through different pipe setups as you say, although constant volume systems might have different outcomes - so balance is the thing to go on I guess.

Can we assume they will pick up the bill once you agree the works. If so it seems odd that they are not fully engaged as it could run way with them.

Looks like the P8 problem can come from various sources. In this document https://ohmenergy.co.uk/heat-pumps/ecodan-fault-codes/ it mentions flow rate as the problem, maybe your pump is failing. Has it ever worked properly?

IS the heat pump running all the time, when it works, or are these the immersion units? Assume it is immersion units - which means your HP is not working correctly at all as I see it.

What you have looks good, you need to give them enough so that they can get it right first time rather than change things when they find out that your openings are not what they assumed in terms of build up. So other things to think about including are: Making sure the quote contains the Uw values for every window - you need to meet PH standard there. Specifying if the installer is responsible for attaching air tight membrane tape and / or connecting to the airtight layer adjacent to the window. Which windows are designated escape windows, if any. Which door(s) is(are) your accessible door(s) for BC purposes. If you have section drawings of your openings that will help them, and stop them coming back and upping the quote when they find a difficult opening. Including / not including such things as compriband on the external connection to the opening. Which foam to use when sealing around the windows - You can say a brand and /or say it should have similar properties to a brand. The finished colour(s) inside and out (Some colours are standard others cost), also if coastal location you will need a marine grade finish. Do you want secured by design as standard on all doors / windows on GF - this affects the glass build up and the locking. If you are expecting the windows to be installed with access to both sides. IE will they work from the inside or both sides. (On ours the windows are bigger in their boxes than the surrounding tile hanging so they need to go in from the inside although you can work on the outside.) Section drawings will show this to them. What is access like to the the site - can they get a lorry close and / or a window robot around all sides. Is there / will there be scaffolding - window robot then no good. Hope that helps.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Are you getting it architected, getting a contractor or thinking of doing it all yourself?

You can usually work out what you need and order it, if you buy quality it won't be wasted.

In my experience: Spax are excellent. UltiMate / Ultimate II are very good. Reisser are good. The 'Tite' range from screwys, I have found the exterior 'tite' to be excellent but a bit expensive (although not as expensive as Spax!) Timco are great for general work where tolerances, of all sorts, are sacker, their range is good and you can buy them in vast bulk and not feel the pinch too much. After that the world is your oyster. The thing that bugs me about most of them is the 'real' diameter measure. To me a 4mm screw should drop through a 4mm hole but they generally don't so you can get jacking if you are not very careful and get the hold size just right. Too big and the head sinks in a mile, too small and the joint is not pulled up as tight as you would want. I now keep drills 0.2, 0.4, 0.5 bigger than the screw spec to be sure I have the right size for every screw.

Great stuff this, wonder if there is one or more of these machines in the UK - anybody know?

After each visit you should get a report that sets out the work seen and the approval to move forward - they will have photos taken at the visits at the very least so as long as you have evidence of a visit and such followup you should be OK. The verbal approval is possibly more tricky but again you presumably have evidence you sent the photos (emails etc) and they have no evidence that they disapproved it following the photos / email.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! £2.5K per m2 seems not an unreasonable figure for a mid range finish in your part of the world, so it should only go up a lot if you are going for a high end finish or you have some difficult features. Its a kit after all. How have you structured the contract - do they purchase the kit or do you do that direct and they set it up?

It seems to me that we would all do well to recall the old corollary to the addage "if you can't measure it you can't control it" which is "Just because you can measure it it does not mean you can control it." We have a passive stack plan, alongside full MVHR, for our build high level roof lights and low (ground level) windows. Although they are electrically actuated and we have sensors, all sorts everywhere, I have no idea how to control it other than bang bang control until I see the data.

Either way use stainless steel screws.