MikeSharp01

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! Systems thinking is a much neglected art in these days of great opportunity for complexity and chaos.

They are, they fit in a smart looking, but still plastic, cage you can use them without the cage. Just so everybody knows you need to be aware that these traps only catch the male moths. So, if you understand the basic repro process you will understand that while you may catch many moths just one male surviving can fertilize many females while also having a whale of a time because the competition is all stuck up to your traps.

There must be something in that box or it would not be there so what ever you do don't go to hard as it is probably pipework.

Camera would work or you could just gently remove the boxing and remake it when you have the cable through.

I use a hole saw that I have adapted for this sort of thing. It has a jubilee clip around it that a set to what I think the thickness might be and then I drill very gently, once it bottoms out and I am not through I adjust the clip and go again until I am just through. You can then look in the hole and see what's there.

You can't really drill safely anywhere there as the boxing in must be for something and it won't be a steel because it has no support at the front end. Where do you think the pipe comes down in that space - right in the corner?

No keep the support across the board side just rebate the backs of the battens in places to let the cable through.

I didn't recall that - my brain is getting less well connected every day - anyway I think it makes sense to provision for one in the main bedroom of our place as its only a couple of holes through the fabric.

You can get RS485 twin pair cable if that helps. Over 30m there is almost no chance of any problems with RS485 although terminating resistors will help. I use this stuff . You can also use this cable to run your sensors all screened and drained.

Did he, I thought he was happy cooling the slab, I don't recall air con anywhere? We have lived with our build, not finished but windows / insulation in, pretty air tight and we nave not had a problem this summer / past couple of weeks with it over heating if we just put the upstairs windows in Tilt at night - and we cannot use the roof lights yet. I have planned a fan coil unit in the MVHR supply line and appreciate that this won't have a great effect but might be a valuable addition to slab cooling (50T concrete) for down stairs and, to be fair, our upstairs is only 50% of the downstairs floor area so maybe less work to do than many on the upstairs.

Well Merlot o'clock anyway. I have found that the best way to deal with board ends, assuming the horizontal rafters are not on the 400/600 grid as if they are you can fix them to the rafters, is just to use off cuts of the batten behind the board ends where they join to allow the boards to get mutual support from each other and that has never been a problem. Just cut grooves in the back of the battens to get the cables through but make sure you keep fixing screws away from the cables.

Why would you get cross flow at 45 Degrees it (the fluids / solids) will get broken up by the bends before they get to the drop, start to fall as soon as the bend starts and worst case they hit the bend lower down on the other side and anything that might 'stick' will be washed away by the next flush on the other WC plus you have great rodding access down the top hole of the three way SP230.

Just as an aside it is interesting how many posts we have seen on this topic, it must have hit the zeitgeist right on the head!

You need to grout the joints tgat shoukd do it or if you do not want to do that the back the edging with a plastic sheet it to the soil top.

Feels all wrong - the better the air tightness the better the insulation works and the less the house costs to run, in energy and financial terms, so better for the planet. People might, still seems wrong, suggest a reversible scheme, IE do the core drill operation suggested above, keep the cores, have the air test and then replace the cores.

Sounds like you need some edge beams around that part of the patio to separate the lawn from the path. It will also stop run off from the lawn getting onto the patio.

Yes we are going Titon - the new HRV4 I am hoping.

As long as you have joist hangars everywhere and enough piers for the outer group and across the middle and you are not thinking of installing any heavy machinery - lathes and the like, you should be OK.

Asking for a friend - this time, who has a single mixer tap with pull out spray nozzle that has broken. She wants a good brand but is bewildered by the range available - she does not want a Quooker or anything like that - just one with a pull out nozzle for washing vegetables. Any thoughts / ideas.

Not been on yet today and only once yesterday - maybe he is taking a bit of R&R in a darkened room away from the pressure of BH.

That's an odd one - is it four pipes, the one at the back looks like it might be going somewhere close?

You are allowed, but I wouldn't even think about doing it, to deal with asbestos yourself. The disposal is controlled but your local council will have a place where you can take small quantities of double bagged asbestos, round here - Kent, you need to book an appointment and its 5 doubled bags at a time. Depending on the grade you would need to ensure you take all the precautions - it differs by type. Best thing would be to find out what sort you have by getting a professional in to test it then you can decide how best to dispose of it.

More on the doppler radar sensor. It will pick up tiny movements, IE breathing, I have a module and when I get time I will experiment. More info here: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/frsip.2022.847980/full

We used Cabershield with their recommended glue and protected all the exposed edges - with the same glue, think we went a little beyond 42 days in places with no ill effects although to be fair we covered it in DPC plastic to keep the worst of the weather off.

Loops look very fine. More worried about the U values of the fabric which, given the size of the property, means it will be relatively costly to heat.