MikeSharp01

If you are going to do this a structural adhesive, Phenol-Resorcinol Formaldehyde Resin, is the stuff. I have used PU adhesive and this is good enough to create a bond stronger than that within the OSB itself. I assume that wall will be inside so not subject to weather, outside you are going to struggle with OSB almost no matter how you coat it.

They sort of did.

We have 157m2 ( close to 500m2 of wall and roof) and we brought 16 rolls of vana, 2 of profile, only need enough to go around all the windows, and 3 of the 4m wide ( that's a lot but we have about half a roll over) Intello plus.

An old XJS in the garage might be a good idea if the headline in the Telegraph today is anything to go by: "Warning that Chinese electric car ‘invasion’ could paralyse Britain" in short if they don't like us, whenever, they just turn the cars off! Lots of opportunities to cut demand in an instant!

Us too - brilliant to deal with.

Cut a little bit, 5-10 mm of the plastic top you want, take it to someone with a 3D printer, e.g. @Onoff and ask them to print you some lengths for you.

In the end we went with Norrsken, we are very pleased with the windows and the fitting team were excellent. A few snags remain to be sorted - they are due back next week. (We have not done the air test yet so that remains to be seen.) We chose them for some of the reasons you mention, EG roughly price equivalent & slightly better U values but our main reason was that they could do, and Rationel could not, the triangular opening (Turn before Tilt) we wanted at the front - so no glazing bars across the triangle and the glass to glass corner we wanted for our corner window.

Yes one point of isolation for all of it then no chance of a cross feed from anywhere.

Makes sense. You can put a label on either / both saying it must be isolated elsewhere (say where) if adjacent to one or other or neither.

Does not sound like a good plan as the floor will sink because the standard jablite EPS will compress at the joists. If you board it first then jablite it you stand a chance but I would check the compressive strength / square area value even then.

I think what I meant to say is don't use the shotgun satellite coax as this is not as good a bog standard TV Coax so only the mid range spec 1.25mm (2.5db loss per 10m) is going to be significantly better than bog standard coax. After that you would probably be better off paying for and installing fibre optic links, with associated converters, to move the signals around the place - almost zero loss, very pricey and broadcast quality. Oh but hang on if you have FTTP then you can get 8 x 8K streams down a 1Gb connection - should be enough for anyone, assuming you have the wall space for 8 x 8K TVs in your house and you don't need any coaxial cable at all!

Actually the sat cable is just a slightly higher spec, other than the shotgun stuff, than standard TV aerial cable which, unless you have very long runs, will be fine anyway. What ever Cable you use make sure it is low loss and has the correct impedance (75 Ohm).

That feels a lot unless you are going to use some of them for HDMI over Cat6 - what was your thinking? You can always put a mini switch / hub behind the TV if you need more points. We are also on First Fix and I worry about fixing TV points on walls as deciding the best place for a TV somewhat fixes the way the room will turn out.

Did you mean PV (Photo Voltaic) or could this be Solar Thermal (ST)!

Very fractionally - perhaps a few percent, if you think about it - unless your AP has external aerials it is already transmitting through plastic.

You could put it into an IP65 plastic box like this one from TLC EG this one or one of its bigger siblings: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKIP886N.html don't forget the breather, which is IP68 to help with any condensation, which will be minimal if the unit is on 24/7 it will keep the box warm but the breather will still be of value.

If anybody wants a good explanation of the IP rating system RS do a very comprehensive one: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/content/discovery/ideas-and-advice/ip-ratings

The IP rating is sometimes deceptive. The first digit is dust ingress so 5 is not bad. The second is water and 4 is not great - it will stand splashing but you can expect some water ingress to be possible especially in exposed positions. You realy want ip65 or 66 to be sure of keeping British weather out and 67 if very exposed.

Sounds fun and welcome to the forum.

That was 'Compriband' alright I don't think it available in anything but black. Ours looks great - but we have quartz grey windows and black cladding so it works for us. It seems to be the standard process for the standard PH type windows.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Brilliant

Wow for 3 phase! Not sure you will be able to see that figure from where you are likely to end up in the current climate even with the Webb telescope - but best of luck anyway!

Not always - but fundamentally yes.

It matters because its our economy that we want to grow not the whole planet although I agree we are very connected. We have to generate enough foreign exchange to buy what we need from outside our borders. The strength / weakness of our economy somewhat in the form of interest rates informs the exchange rate. So high interest rates here makes the pound stronger on international markets which in turn has a variety of upsides and downsides. EG internally its a nightmare and externally its a bonanza - Cheaper to import stuff - including, curiously / obviously inflation if we don't make enough of the stuff we consume internally. Least I think that's how it works😁.