MikeSharp01

Makes sense. You can put a label on either / both saying it must be isolated elsewhere (say where) if adjacent to one or other or neither.

Does not sound like a good plan as the floor will sink because the standard jablite EPS will compress at the joists. If you board it first then jablite it you stand a chance but I would check the compressive strength / square area value even then.

I think what I meant to say is don't use the shotgun satellite coax as this is not as good a bog standard TV Coax so only the mid range spec 1.25mm (2.5db loss per 10m) is going to be significantly better than bog standard coax. After that you would probably be better off paying for and installing fibre optic links, with associated converters, to move the signals around the place - almost zero loss, very pricey and broadcast quality. Oh but hang on if you have FTTP then you can get 8 x 8K streams down a 1Gb connection - should be enough for anyone, assuming you have the wall space for 8 x 8K TVs in your house and you don't need any coaxial cable at all!

Actually the sat cable is just a slightly higher spec, other than the shotgun stuff, than standard TV aerial cable which, unless you have very long runs, will be fine anyway. What ever Cable you use make sure it is low loss and has the correct impedance (75 Ohm).

That feels a lot unless you are going to use some of them for HDMI over Cat6 - what was your thinking? You can always put a mini switch / hub behind the TV if you need more points. We are also on First Fix and I worry about fixing TV points on walls as deciding the best place for a TV somewhat fixes the way the room will turn out.

Did you mean PV (Photo Voltaic) or could this be Solar Thermal (ST)!

Very fractionally - perhaps a few percent, if you think about it - unless your AP has external aerials it is already transmitting through plastic.

You could put it into an IP65 plastic box like this one from TLC EG this one or one of its bigger siblings: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKIP886N.html don't forget the breather, which is IP68 to help with any condensation, which will be minimal if the unit is on 24/7 it will keep the box warm but the breather will still be of value.

If anybody wants a good explanation of the IP rating system RS do a very comprehensive one: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/content/discovery/ideas-and-advice/ip-ratings

The IP rating is sometimes deceptive. The first digit is dust ingress so 5 is not bad. The second is water and 4 is not great - it will stand splashing but you can expect some water ingress to be possible especially in exposed positions. You realy want ip65 or 66 to be sure of keeping British weather out and 67 if very exposed.

Sounds fun and welcome to the forum.

That was 'Compriband' alright I don't think it available in anything but black. Ours looks great - but we have quartz grey windows and black cladding so it works for us. It seems to be the standard process for the standard PH type windows.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Brilliant

Wow for 3 phase! Not sure you will be able to see that figure from where you are likely to end up in the current climate even with the Webb telescope - but best of luck anyway!

Not always - but fundamentally yes.

It matters because its our economy that we want to grow not the whole planet although I agree we are very connected. We have to generate enough foreign exchange to buy what we need from outside our borders. The strength / weakness of our economy somewhat in the form of interest rates informs the exchange rate. So high interest rates here makes the pound stronger on international markets which in turn has a variety of upsides and downsides. EG internally its a nightmare and externally its a bonanza - Cheaper to import stuff - including, curiously / obviously inflation if we don't make enough of the stuff we consume internally. Least I think that's how it works😁.

It depends on what the extra generation enables, how much of the profits from the generation get back into the local (UK) economy and the amount of work generated internally and externally in building the generation out.

I have started a new topic to carry on this aspect of the this thread to allow this one to get back on track.

That is a lot of duct. Our duct was only 2m long as the pole is in the front of our plot and the service block is right there they didn't need a pull rope.

If you don't want to remake the whole front and cannot accept any other of the above this will be your only option. You could make it removeable if it offends when both parts are hinged out. I also note that the shelf adjacent to the gap with the hinges does not align with it well. I hesitate to suggest this but like so many challenges of this sort it might be worth contemplating fixing this in your heads rather than in the physical world.

We didn't use BT ducting - which you can get from many suppliers -E.G. HERE, I used 28mm Pex-AL-Pex pipe (You need to ensure it is covered as it is not UV protected but as I am not using it for water I think it will last for almost ever) which I steam bent (just ran the wallpaper stripper through it for 10 minutes) to 150mm rad bends as a continuous run from the pole to the wall where BT will want to install what they call their 'outside' box. (It is where they splice the incoming cable from the local infrastructure to the fibre that will actually go into your building and up to the Fibre - CAT6 converter BT will fit.) So you may need two duct runs one to get to that outside box and then from there to the inside box if its a long run. The BT team arrived looked at the job and said this looks too easy as you have done all our work for us. Fed the fibre through the duct, no draw wire needed, fitted the boxes and tested the system - and pushed off home early!

We have all our services; Gas - not connected, Electricity, Water and the FTTP, to a services block at the front of the property we then take the services into the buildings from there. So the router is in the house but the little box that converts the fibre to CAT6, the fibre comes down the local pole and along the duct we installed from it to the services block - not far, is in the services block. I also have the external temperature & humidity sensor there, so well away from the influences of the house, and will shortly have the energy monitor there on the network as the smart meter is there as well.

+1 to that, I have one and it is so useful and not just for taking things apart. I also have a couple of these: https://www.workshopheaven.com/arno-framing-chisel-40mm/ which you can sharpen anytime and give you a great pry action and they are, as they say in the blurb, bombproof because they are all steel.

Wheely bins really are the invention of the devil.