Nickfromwales

Some answers are in my previous two posts. Check through and come back with anything I've missed. The junction between the tiles and floor covering is done in CT1, NOT silicone. CT1 doesn't have a short life like silicone and doesn't go black / mouldy.

The dark strip you see returned up the walls is the Impey tanking strip, not a row of mosaics . The tray to floor junctions were all tank stripped too prior to the Amtico going down. That job had mermaid panels fitted so no need to tank any further up the wall than the remainder of the width of the tanking strip, eg 120mm ( or so ) wide strip = 60mm flat and 60mm vertical.

Look again at the pics All that 3x2 was retrospectively fitted to the existing MBC pozi joists but all under slung, perpendicular first to create a cradle, then overlaid with more 3x2 run parallel ( spacered accordingly to allow for the thicker timber of the pozi joist ) so all the timber I added never added a single mm to the existing entire floor level. The Weyroc you see in those pics is the original monolevel deck laid by MBC. I cut out that section of 22mm Weyroc and dropped the Impey tray in flush +3mm. The company that fitted the Amtico first overply'd the entire first floor with ply this raising the floor to my anticipated final height, and then I just used tile adhesive to give me the mil or two of fine tuning to get the mosaics completely flush to the amtico. I don't 'do' steps so my OCD is on a par with yours! . And yes, it wasn't easy.

JG would be my last choice. Sorry. Hepworth push fit is the best I've come across to date, and even with its higher price tag I'd still think twice about going for JG SpeedFit. The inserts for JG are very thick walled, especially their 'super seal' ones, whereas Hep ones are slim stainless sleeves which don't infringe on the internal bore diameter anywhere near as much. Quite important when you're designing for 10mm runs to basins / other outlets and you don't want a trade off between delivery losses and flow rates. The diamond tray I fitted was a one piece jobbie that had the waste outlet offset with a simple / clever design that meant to miss a joist you just rotated the tray by 180 degrees. It's currently and happily nestling away under those mosaics as we speak. . Been in for 6 - 8 months or more now and zero complaints. I'm in regular contact with my customers so I get real life feedback which is helpful. That pic shows the 300/500mm offset, and the joists ran parallel with the length of the tray, so an 800mm wide tray with a centre outlet would have landed 3/4 onto the second joist. Impey are the innovators though as they do a rotatable 'double off-settable' outlet which is second to none. This pic shows ( look carefully ) the MBC pozi joists ( with the metal webs ) and then the ~15 lengths of graded CLS timber ( 3x2 ) that I retrospectively added to provide support for the Impey former shown. Impey say that they're happy with less, my OCD says otherwise ( and CLS is pennies in the grand scheme so I choose belt and Bracey-McBrace ). The mosaics got grouted with an anthracite grout and looked great alongside the Amtico. Word of warning, the bars in the Amtico ( where the joins are ) want to suck the grout wash-up residue in with capillary action. Mask the edges well as it's a right pita to be cleaning that until 3am, ask me how I know . Solvent weld waste of any decent make will be fine. Most important discipline is cleaning the swarf / burr from inside the pipe after each cut. Failure to observe that will leave a rough 'crown' inside each joint where hair will snag and cause issues later down the line. From an ongoing self-maintenance POV I always run 50mm waste to any shower / tray / former etc and always make sure the pipework can be got to for rodding later down the line. Always try to avoid 90o bends, and use 2 x 45o bends instead, slightly separated, which will make rodding / clearing much easier and make the run 'further penetrable' during such action.

Yup. No problems whatsoever on the last lot of MB stuff I fitted. Normal 32mm traps straight on . If you have any long runs of waste pipe from basins, particularly if they drop vertically, then use one of these. Stops the gurgling and absolutely necessary if there is a bath sharing the same waste pipe before it gets to the 110mm soil pipe.

Looks nice for the money. Says "does not include fixings" so there opens a compatibility can o worms. Can you email them with the model of frame you have and ask if the fixings are available to suit ( and how much )?

Does the dotted line denote the 'deemed' midway point or is it a tank in tank design you've looked at for this example ? Going to look at your tank thread again to try and join the dots, but this is a very curved ball here as the first needs to be ascertained in order to arrive at this thread, does it not?

Agree with all that Not saying it won't produce hot water / heat energy, just I see it as a one-trick pony. You do have a lot of it so maybe it'll be worthwhile. What's your means for dumping excess energy when the cylinders are satisfied?

The text editor on here saves your draft just click on it ( as if typing a fresh reply ) and see if it's there.

Agree it will contribute, but only to hot water. I'm considering a huge TS too, but for a DIY ( non MCS ) Pv array and my chimnea to heat it. For ST I just don't see the benefit as you have the additional capital cost to integrate it, so even if the ST kit is cheap it's still down to economics / maintenance / efficiency for me so Pv just seems a no brainer in comparison. I don't think you can get RHI with a TS so another negative ( and I think that's a bad deal btw as it would be better suited to a TS over an UVC in most instances ). I'll shut up now

Do you mind me asking how much the 16m 2 cost ?

I still struggle to see why anyone ( in this country ) would choose ST. RHI is one thing of course, but it performs best in summer when you need very little heat and then you have to dump the excess. Maybe I'm missing something

Cheers dave

Start a new thread you lot Not quite LED lighting now

+1, bit increase the TS to 400 ltrs. Lower temp so better off with more volume. It's about £100 more to go from 300 to 400 .

Sounds pretty much spot on to me. As opposed to a seasonal control, maybe a relay to hold the boiler off if the immersion is energised? That coupled with the time clock would be a good solution.

Flexi for the local connection, and then convert to rigid at the next convenient point. There would be nothing wrong with making the first fitting off these a bend, if you needed an immediate turn due to height constraints, and then a section of flexi immediately off that, but it would imho be a right pita to try and couple these to rigid with no 'break'

These require a delicate touch to fit properly. A VERY snug fit in the plasterboard and then 4 x small screws trough the ring into the plasterboard, plus the two 'wing' clips that are supplied need an equally fussy eye. They're standard size for ducting and I have no doubt they'll accept some rigid pipe or other. I would say that you'll struggle not to hit these out of the ceiling whilst fitting rigid though. I can't really see any reason to try and connect rigid directly to them tbh, and it would make life 100 times easier if you just used a short piece of flexi to make this connection. You won't have issues with vacuum collapse as the flow rates are just too low with MVHR. Is that your concern. ?

Cheaper than shoplifting. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281298929759

These combined extractor / lights are what I use in every job. Maybe you could connect the mvhr to them and have one less item in the ceiling ? They come with an led lamp and driver for change of £25 each. Chrome or white bezel ( comes with both ).

Re the pump just make sure it's an A band. Re the sets, I've never had issues with either, but a few on here rave about the thermo type as they appear to give better performance at lower temp.

That's the one in my link no side caps there spongebob. Or or that one

Haven't been ignoring this btw, just having a very busy week and thinking it over when I get 5 mins here and there.

Thanks. I do a lot of showroom bathrooms so they've been my main bread and butter. I do like fitting kitchens more tbh, and am trying to steer things that way. Just my luck that Ive just taken deposits on 2 bathrooms and a Wetroom . Bugger.

There used to be a compression type nut and cone washer for the flush pipe, where it met the underside of the cistern. Temp posted re his grief with them, but the type you have is the superseded version and is one piece push on with a chunky o-ring and is bombproof. That one you liked is about 4 years ago, and I've consumed a bit of ale since. Iirc it's a Duravit pan. Thought it may have been a Starck pan but in my pic it appears to have a rim to it. Maybe discontinued? The Stark 3 looks similar. Theyre expensive, but the bolt system on the underside is second to none. I don't like the side fix ones and I get the most amount of grief from the latter, during fitting. Plus, I don't like to see the caps on the side that go in the fixing holes after fitting as they never fit snugly IMO.