Nickfromwales

Shit drill bits

Your right. As long as it's not water based it won't reconstitute the paint / soften it. CT1 will do a good job for small areas. The only problem is in splash zones where moisture can get in around the edges, so beware not to use it excessively ( eg more than just a splash back etc ).

I thought I had a 'problem' with me hoovering out joist voids and the such before boarding up / over. Seems you have had a treasure trove left for you. Never a dull moment eh?

How's that still in there? You've had a combi conversion.

Ahhh, 'tis true. A picture speaks a thousand words.

The paint needs to come off, your tiler is spot on. After removing the paint, you'll need to prime the surfaces with a primer suited to accepting tile adhesive. Try a scouring pad and water to remove the paint. If it's a non vinyl based paint for obliteration it should emulsify and come off quite easily. If it's a vinyl based top coat, you may have to break through it first ( with 40-60 grit sandpaper ) and then try scouring once you've scored it sufficiently.

I wonder if a Pv recharged version would boost your FIT payments? Seriously though, I wouldn't feel happy about owning a hose reel that's more intelligent than me

If renovating for profit then I'd go with the simpler option, and float the floor. I thought it was one where you may be moving in, sorry. I'm a fan of a solid floor, well insulated and no cold breeze blowing under it. If you can get a good bit of wool under there then it'll be fine. Ive done the weyroc over eps option before and it worked really well. I doubled up the weyroc ( 2x 18mm laid at 90o to each other and glued and screwed, and that was raising a garage floor to create an utility / kitchenette with a washing machine and TD in it. Washing machine needed some shoes making to stop it moving about but it was an integrated one.

You'll likely need radiator flow temps in excess of those delivered by Ufh manifolds. You can choose to oversize the radiators to compensate but either option needs proper investigation and the system needs to be able to heat the house when it's bitterly cold and windy outdoors. . Will the Ufh downstairs be over a floating timber floor? What's the intended insulation levels where the Ufh is?

Hose and brush. Then let nature deal with the rest.

Theyre doing something wrong then. I've got bits that I've lent to mates and had back and are still drilling holes. My 30mm one is at least a year old and does between 5 and 7 holes per job. That's through porcelain and ceramic. Just use plenty of water and keep the tile cool. A damp sponge works well also.

Cape and a crash helmet.

Sound deadening mat is the way forward. I tried completely surrounding a soil pipe with expanding foam in a hotel, but it was next to useless. Acoustic wool ( dense rock wool ) in conjunction with something like recycled rubber floor matting ( sound deadening layers for floors ) will reap rewards. The rubber to deal with the lower frequency, the wool for the higher, and then 2 layers of sound control ( acoustic ( blue )) plasterboard will be a good solution IMO. That'll leave the stud work at the same depth, but allow for the two layers of PB, both sides if it's a dividing wall.

The only thing jack didn't mention was that the house was 4" taller 100 years ago

I'd avoid the ventilated option. Blind the quarry tiles with a smattering of sharp sand ( 5mm or so ) and get it as level as possible. Don't make the high points any higher, just fill in the 'dips'. Lay 25mm eps on the sand layer, and then lay your DPM. That'll protect the DPM and help absorb any sharp undulations. That's the 30mm layer sorted. Fill the remaining floor area with a 140mm layer of PIR. Fit 25mm eps around the perimeter to reduce cold bridging there. 75-80mm of fibre impregnated screed on top as your finished floor. Bobs your uncle, fannys your aunt.

Jeremy's experiences tell us that's it's bloody hard stuff to cut, and you'll go through a couple of saw blades. The upside is you'll have an extremely hard wearing and durable floor. I can only assume it would sand like wood, but be a bloody hard job.

Are the design loop lengths in excess of the coils supplied?

: bows his head : Are you serious? In fairness I've never asked for a design, as I'm usually the one making them. I only ever ask people for a price on the kit I want. It seems BD outsource this service, at their peril. . Got a funeral tomw morning then I'll get back on the phone.

Welcome aboard .

The heat generated when drilling porcelain is the number one reason that they break when being drilled. A water bottle hand spray and a diamond bit is essential, particularly when the hole is within an inch or two from the edge of the tile. Is it ceramic or porcelain, do you know?

I'm sure I can sort something

No. Solid floors will need sealing with a pva / water ( 50/50 ) mopping, and left to dry completely. For wooden floors I'd recommend a flexible tile adhesive primer, as they're far superior to pva imo.

If you're floating it then underlay is a must. Otherwise you'll have boards 'clacking' together when you walk on them. Are you not bonding them down? If deffo floating the floor, maybe go for a higher performance underlay to add to comfort and sound deadening, rather than the thin foam one usually suggested by the suppliers.

Don't seal the trap to the tiles, instead buy some 20mmx20mm pvc angle and make an upstand around the opening in the tiles. That'll allow the bath to be removed, negate sealing around the base of the bath ( possible ugly silicone / other on display ) and stop water from doing any harm under it. Splashes will soon naturally evaporate so unless your filming Free Willy 3 in there I wouldn't panic too much. . Edit : don't cut right through the angle section. Just cut the piece that hits the floor and then bend it there to form a continuous upstand. Mitre bond and activator will bond it into a rectangle then use sikaflex to bond it down.