Nickfromwales

Iirc the 500 is the same width but taller. I've literally just put the phone down to Trevor and he's confirmed the following for UVCs. DIRECT ( electric only so no coil ) 300 £460 400 £793 500 £834 prob double immersion INDIRECT ( wet heating coil plus immersion ) 300 £516 400 £822 500 £895 all inclusive of vat and delivery. Add £50 for NI. Trevor said to go on the website cylinders2go and all the dimensions should be on there. Take 2.5% off the listed prices and you should be in the ball park.

Sorry just easier to take screenshots and upload them direct. That's for the 400ltr TS I'm fitting next week, which Trevor at Cylinders2go delivered for me last Tuesday. £1095.00 including vat and delivery. I think it's circa £50 additional to get it to the land of the hot press. Go for the metal jacketed version with the higher performing insulation. I've yet to update the info surrounding Shell's 'confusion' surrounding her TS which was going on on EB, re thicker sprayed on insulation vs thinner insulation (but higher performance) and the metal jacket. I had a very long and well informed chat with Roger the head guy at Telford about that misunderstanding and I am now fully conversant with the reasons for and against both types of insulation. DJF, trust me on this for the moment, you need to go for the thinner insulation and the metal jacket option NOT the spray on. I'll elaborate a little later (as it'll be a long post), which I will link to in this thread, but I'll give it a thread of its own so as not to derail this one. The information in that thread will be quite fundamental so I don't want it lost in another thread. If you're going immersion only I'd not go less than 500ltr. Cost difference between a 300ltr (TS) and a 400 ltr is ~£100 the last 500 ltr TS I had was ~ £1250 iirc. Trevor can confirm these upon making an enquiry. Please mention the old forum, the new forum and my user name and I've already pre-empted that we (you lot) get the best price he can do I've just left him a message to come back to me for prices for UVCs at 300 / 400 and 500 ltrs. At the larger size I'd recommend going for dual immersion so you can have one on Pv and another on manual / guest boost for high demand.

For those that don't know, when we conceived this forum I made some comments about summat and Ian replied "if I wanted to hear a sparrow fart", and then he hacked my profile and applied this 'artwork'. Git

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smooth-1-5m-8mm-Shiny-PVC-Shower-Hose-Pipe-Long-Flexible-Brass-Connectors-/322042043197?nav=SEARCH these are quite good. No metal helicoil to split and untwist. give that a try.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Challenge-Replacement-Hose-and-Lance-to-fit-for-Xtreme-Extreme-Pressure-washer-/301922809226?nav=SEARCH sorted. youll have the cleanest arse in all the land.

The tanking can stop pretty much after the defined wet area. If water's going to get that far then you have issues elsewhere. where is the uth going? Both rooms? Expensive ornament alert!

This is a former I'd just laid. The corners made up in sand and cement where an old pipe went through. The light grey stuff is the tanking primer which I cut in prior to fixing the tray into position. That just gave me a nice clean surface to bond the tray to. This shot shows the stud wall in place, blame the bathroom showroom for not having the tray the full width, and with the first coat of tanking applied. After the first coat was tacky, I then applied the 4" strip ( as seen with Roman written on it ) into a layer of wet tanking. That then gets brushed quite firmly to remove excess tanking from behind the strip to ensure it's as flush and flat as possible so as not to hinder tiling. The strips run between the former and the insulation backer boards on the floor ( insulation boards as this had undertile heating on a ground floor ( concrete )), in all the internal angles both horizontal and vertical, and around the turn of the boxing in eg the external also. Leftover strip used around the shower valve. Belt and braces, aka OCD. Finished article prior to grouting. Note the shower valve is dead centre of the border tile ribbon, and also there are two same size tiles either side equally intersecting the shower valve. That's gives the same size cut of tile around the entire valve plate. Aka OCD All of the above can also be observed when fitting a shower tray, just the only difference being that you can't use the strip between the shower tray and the wall. As the tile will only cover 12-14mm of the edge of the tray, you can't have the strip showing so another change of discipline is needed. The next one is a one piece shower tray, so basically you just tank the walls prior to the tray being fitted, which gives an excellent surface for the adhesive ( mastic type ) to adhere to when bonding the tray into its final position. What the picture doesn't show is the masking tape that I put onto the tray to allow me to get a neat edge to the sealant where it sits on the tray edge. That junction is quite important as it's the last line of defence against any water getting behind the tiles. What I do I these circumstances is to pump a load of mastic ( sikaflex for these is best as it's non silicone based and also doubles up as a sealant as well as an adhesive ) between the tray and the wall and then push the tray against the walls thus displacing any excess above the tray edge. This is when you'll be glad you masked it up first . Get a plastic spatula and then spread the excess sealant, whilst still wet, against the vertical wall face. Do this so you get an up-stand of sealant forming a 'skirting board' which is continuous between the tray, the wall, and vertical face of the wall, preferably all in one application. I set the masking tape around 5-6mm in from the edge of the tray so I know I'll get a straight line, and also a bead of sealant that's has a decent purchase on the tray, which then transfers to the wall. The action of tooling the sealant with the spatula pushes it against the tray itself thus forming a good / strong bond to both. After the horizontal sealant has cured, next run a bead up the internal angle for at least 600-900mm up the corner. With the fundamental sealing done, in goes the 45'd shower valve & pipework frame sections which them get plasterboarded and sealed, plus tanked prior to tiling. Roberts your mothers brother The end.

I'm glad you recognised my proper title. Still laughing at my original avatar Ian, class mate. Class.

No flowers and chocolates then

Busy isn't the word. It's manic at the moment. Self employment is very much like a roller coaster. You're either on it doing 125 mph, or you're on the side watching it go by. Right now, however, I'm sat in front of my nice warm chimnea, bud in hand, slowly turning the spicy pork and Spanish chorizo sausages on the BBQ. 25 to 10 at night is my tea time, and it's magic. Picked up two one-tonne bags of white wood off site today ( thanks to the roof being just over 2.4 and the timbers having been ordered at 3m so plenty of just the right size off cuts ) and the first couple are crackling away as I type. Tres, bien. I've put 20 chipolatas on too for the kids' brekky. They love cold BBQ sausages in the morning. 4 kids vs 20 of them = no waste. If any of you have cordless power tools, then this is a good one..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Charger-Adaptor-For-Makita-Battery-Pack-/231881828093?hash=item35fd3be6fd:g:hxQAAOSwmmxW4Eip my ipad is currently topping up off one of those right now, from a 4.0ah makita 18v battery. Handiest thing I ever bought, ( beside the 500 other handy things I bought of course ) and charges 2x small devices or 1 tablet with ease. Great if you're on site and your mobile needs a charge, with no scrabbling around for a plug point and the phone can stay with you where you're working ( so no legging it or jumping off ladders to answer the call ). Knowledge is power......and you're all now 2% more powerful people. When you get to 80% I'll start to harvest the energy to heat my hot water

Cool ya heels. Wheres the fire?

That picture makes it a lot clearer. I think you should use push fit tap connectors on the taps, then use 22mm x 3m ( straight ) lengths of push it pipe to go between the taps and the isolations. A quick question. Are you proposing the removable tile JUST for access to the bath isolations?

Get on your hands and knees and run a 3 foot long piece of 3x2 along the floor. You'll soon see the 'spikes' ( aggregate stood up in the surface of the concrete) and you just chip then off with a hammer if the brick won't do it. A days prep in there will save you £'s on self leveller and the labour of it being laid, but be ready for the bill for the extra adhesive as you'll likely use over double the rated amount ( coverage vs M2 vs thickness of bed ) when levelling and laying with adhesive.

I've seen that clip system used a few times. It basically squeezes the top and the bottom of the tile together so you don't get any 'kickers' ( corner or edge of one tile not completely flush with the next and much worse at corners where 4 tiles meet / intersect ). You usually fit these at the corners and use quite a sloppy mix. It's also quite a task to do with rapid set, but again it's easier if you do this for a living i personally would go with just running a carborundum block over the spikes, to knock them flat, and then levelling and laying with adhesive as you go. Self levelling can be a double edged sword, as I find if I'm not laying it, it just makes the high points higher therefore only part filling the valleys ( or holes as we call them ). I can't speak for your tiler but I'd definitely not go down the self level route if the tolerance is +\- 6-8mm. Any idea what the tolerance is?

The 900mm one or the 600mm one AFTER it ( not the 600mm one before it as that's a POS ) seem good cutters and the 900 is £36 a week. Go get that and crack on. Take a tile or two with you when you go pick it up and ask them to demo it. The secret is to lightly score the tile but the most important thing is to make sure you score 100% of the tile face, eg don't start 3-5mm in and go light at the very end or you'll end up with carpet knife shaped cuts ( straight all the way and a swerve at the very end ). Youll do yourself a favour if you have a small grinder with a non grooved ( continuous surfaced ) diamond disc in it to clean off any snots. Safety specs is absolute critical as porcelain shards are quite painfully in the eye, I sh1t you not. Mid the cutter has a locking mechanism to keep the tile at 90o to the cut then don't assume it's spot on. Put the tip of the cutter on the tile and mark where it lands. Rotate the tile and do the same again. Then use a known square to check that it's cutting at 90o, as you may be doing PARALLEL cuts but the perps won't be parallel if not and you'll see that if you've a 2-3mm grout line.

Yes.....not too shabby at all

Hi, and welcome 'back'

Hi and welcome Feel free to start asking questions when you're ready.

Crazy busy at the mo ! I'll update ASAP.

Happy days welcome 'back'

How do! welcome 'back'.

I'll update later. Got a conservatory to grout now. Yay, I love grouting.

DO NOT PAINT WHERE YOU ARE TILING OR TANKING. !!!!

A bit late to say don't bother skimming the plasterboards