Nickfromwales

25mm to 22mm stopcock. Brass or plastic. NOT 15mm All cold feed pipework to UVC should be 22mm, is this possible ?

If this is a G3 certifiable UVC install then there's far more to it Options are.... 1) new install. 2) retro fit. 1).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. NOTE: This is where you should now tee off for the outside tap so it is not affected by the pressure relief valve. Ensure that the outside tap has an integral non-return valve. Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). Multi-block located within 500mm of the UVC it serves ( G3 / manufacturer requirement ). Balanced cold feeds all to be fed from the balanced output of the multi-block ( mixer taps / shower valves / thermostatic devices etc ). Therefore no requirement for non-return valves on any mixed feed outlets as all mixers will be at the same potential, regardless of static or dynamic fluctuation. 2).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. Secondary Pressure Reducing Valve ( in addition to the manufacturer supplied one which has to be mounted at the UVC position as stated above ( so no, you can't nick it and fit it here )). Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). All house water pressure is governed by the secondary PRV so the cold feeds can be tapped into anywhere in the house without causing pressure differential issues between hot and cold whatsoever. Hot outlet of UVC MUST have a single check non-return valve in line with flow. This is a final failsafe for instances where the secondary PRV fails and mixer taps then can back feed the UVC and over pressurise it to the point of failure. Retro fit only. Failure to adhere to these particulars is what keeps me in a job .

Swings and roundabouts here Dave . Thanks anyhoo.

Can you get extension leads for the 4 core led cable off the bay? Then you can mount that with the bath gubbings

Are the hot and cold to the bath tank fed at the mo ( no gravity / cold mains conflict ) ?

For the bath room I'd recommend some wall lights, that's what I have. I found a nice subtle candle type fitting from B&Q which I then changed to led lamps so they ran cooler ( the halogens supplied made the glass very hot and they were low enough to lean against innadvertantly ). They're on their own switch so the wife can lay in the bath with no glare from the spotlights. Led plinth lights at low level can do the same thing, and look super cool. I also put led strip lights under the mirrored cabinets to give extra 'mood' lighting and make such features of the room stand out. Looks the daschunds dangleies.

If you look really closely you can see the king in the corner cutting the grass one blade at a time with his new multi tool

( because it's an ensuite ).

I've got a 3-way diverter sunk into the wall. Pics later. For your application you just tee the hot and cold outputs from each tap together and send the unified feed to the filler .

Pmsl

Don't forget to buy the anti-foam droplets / bottle for when you test drive the bath When I fitted my mates swimming pool and hot tub this got overlooked with interesting results. . Even if you go in the shower first before relaxing in the tub, the residual shampoo / body wash etc is enough to cause the whirlpool bath to foam up. One drop of that stuff keeps the water completely flat. Oh, and wait until the kids discover what a squirt of shampoo will do

Another example of planning gone mad . I'd continue to fight the planner and go above them tbh. Complimenting brick is a no-brainer, and timber is just typical of a shed material so for a garage this is madness. The rule is 1m away from the boundary if it's made from typically combustible materials, but for brick and block with a metal clad roof profile you should be able to get away with going closer. Have you had the planners 'suggestion' in writing?

Dodgy territory here, as we don't know who's mug it is

I should have stated not to go crazy either side of the crack . One brush with watered down PVA should just suck straight into new plaster, deffo don't go over that with neat PVA. oops. Lol.

I put a PIR ( proper name : occupancy switch ) in my cloakroom so the kids don't need to do anything, ( other than swing the door open with 500% more force than necessary ), then leave and it goes off after 3 mins or so. Stays on as long as there is a bit of movement but if your, ahem, sat in the same position for a while then you'll be sat in the dark waving your hands eventually. For a cloakroom or shower room I'd say a good idea, but for a master or ensuite I'm not so sure. Anyone care to add their experiences ?

On an UVC I always put the cold mains PRV and the T&PRV into the same 15mm run. The ideal situation if you want belt n 3 braces would be to take each 15mm pipe into a 22mm tee, then to the tundish. On this job i fitted a 22mm x 28mm tundish as the run was around 11m to ground level ( so 28mm discharge pipe ( D2 )). Make absolutely sure you have a minimum of 300mm of straight and vertical drop in the D1 pipe before it gets to the tundish. Shorter runs will see a 'swirl' or vortex in the discharged water and it doesn't 'drop' through the tundish at full wallop, eg it sprays against the sides of the tundish and splashes everywhere. Same thing with the D2 pipe which needs to be straight and vertical at least 3-400mm below the tundish before the first turn to horizontal. Note the continuos fall in the pipework

Wall mounted switch outside the bathroom. I hate pull cords, noisy, grubby things. I always look at the string in customers houses and just think of how many people have pulled that after not washing their hands. My favourite bit is the white string at the top which gets dirtier and dirtier the further towards the pull / weight until it's black. Pull cord?......no ta

Plus 1 on air con, but only if you have doors between it and the main house. I'd do that in a heartbeat. The cost of daytime cooling would hopefully be offset with PV, but would be thirsty of an evening and may require more electricity than you have spare ( as you'll be off grid ).

The only 'con' is they're not very sympathetic to the look of a slate roof IMO, unless you go to a coloured one. If your walls are white you may get away with white, but it's down to personal choice. The other thing is the DV will need overhanging battens for it to be secured to. I can't recall if they get cut short to allow the rain to drip off or whether that's an issue or not, ( as the battens are tanalised ). Overhanging the slate and packing with mortar can be done for sure, but it's a recognised point of failure / maintenance. You could still do either tbh, it's down to the look you prefer. .

If they run their own path eg away from the nearest Ufh pipes then they won't benefit from any warmth, they'll be providing it. Thats will dissipate heat from them before its reached the zone it's meant to be heating, so I say super insulate any transitional pipe work so the heat only goes where you want it. A sun room or conservatory will be quite dissimilar to the main house in terms of climate / heating patterns, eg the sunroom heating may be running longer into the evening whilst the house is satisfied, and may not be required in the morning / midday when the sun is warming / overheating it. Therefore there is a good chance that the slab these pipes traverse through may not be 'warm' when the sunroom is calling for heat, IMO reinforcing the need to insulate them accordingly. As you can't increase the flow temp for a single zone ( when sharing a manifold ) you will probably benefit from pulling the pipe in at smaller centres so you slightly increase the W/m2. Having its own manifold would allow you to have control of the flow temp but there's only so much higher you can go so I'd strive to connect to the main manifold and ensure the produced heat is delivered to that area, at as close to the temp it was generated at as possible, and flood that area with extra pipe.

I knew you'd bite before me

It'll need to be dirt and dust proof, plus splash proof. Good luck. ?

Agree with that aspect, Nick. Just my experiences of passive builds leave little or no signal transmission through the build fabric. Literally 3/4 signal and full data outside the front door and I could JUST about make a call inside. To get data signal to check emails etc I had to stand on a crate with my phone at arms length out of the velux window. It was almost like a mobile phone jammer was in use inside. For a property with regular build fabric then not anywhere near as problematic, but even in my stone house I've had to get a wifi piggy-backed 3G booster as it was useless otherwise. They ( EE ) wanted £90, ( I told them they can cancel if it's not free, and a free one turned up a day later ). £90 so I can use my phone at home ?!? ? ✌️Cheeky Bar-stewards