Nickfromwales

Cold water would expand slightly so deffo a normal,thing to see an increase. Check it at midnight and it'll be back down most prob. Its a very small volume of water, so small changes will show quite dramatically on a gauge.

I'm of the opinion that the sooner you can cut a showroom out of the picture the better. That is of course because I can design and fit it without assistance, but you may not be able to do the same. At that point you NEED the designer that the showroom provides so it's then down to putting a value on that service and negotiating as good a price as possible. Never accept the first quote, leave without purchasing and let them chase you with the best deal. . I do that with Howdens, and it's a few days max before they're on the phone chasing the sale......

Can you just fit a meter box and ask them to stick it in there and let them bugger off? Have a coupe of £20 notes on you and ask them to leave 50m of slack coiled up there with the socket made off to the end. If they won't, it's not the end of the world having a joint in the cable so just get them to do as little as possible and get them sent away ASAP.

You're supposed to close the air vents when pressure testing . If in any doubt, disconnect the manifold, remove it, and test each loop for a couple of hours at mains pressure. Use a non return valve for the inlet and cap the other side with the gauge. .

Schoolboy error alert ! Last Time I did that was 7pm and the last screw into a full ( PU glued ) sheet of P5 flooring. Hit the 22mm cold main .

This stuff . Different sizes ( widths ) available.

I've run literally thousands of M's of Cat 5 in my time and never really had the time, or encouragement from my employer, to worry about keeping X distance from bunches and bunches of mains cables. Everything still worked fine ( last solicitors office I did we fitted 40 odd PC network points and around 60 phones ) and I shudder to think what was behind some of the false ceilings that we blindly pulled the runs through ( with 10M long glass-fibre rods ). All I can tell you, without exaggeration, is that it all worked 100% perfectly and is still working there today. Im not saying do a bad job, and in not saying be lazy, but don't exceed the requirements beyond a practicable point as that's just wasted time and effort and it can be better spent elsewhere where it would be recouped measurably. Are you having to chase out for these cable drops?

I really don't know what's going on here ......... Haaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllp!!!!

She was on her knees rubbing grout off the bathroom tiles belting out "Turn around......." More interesting were the stories from the team about their various 'activities'. Bunch of lunatics

The only thing I'd add to that would be ditch the S plan and feed the TS direct from the boiler. Feed the Ufh from the TS, it's a far better solution than running off the boiler imho, and go for a boiler which can match your max dhw flow ( kW that the dhw coil can provide ( 28mm coil and TMV is circa 46kw )). It'll not need to idle then as it won't be serving Ufh on demand, instead it'll be pulsing higher grade heat into the TS thus optimising the temp range and condensing efficiency will be maximised.

That cutter is a good for the money, my blade cost £40 ! If you foam first, don't forget to mask up anything you don't want it to get on. I'd just fill the gaps with adhesive as I went tbh, no waiting, no cutting back excess foam etc and will add to the bond.

My alternative answers would not have been publicly acceptable.

I'm out

Eileen

The force is now weak with you. ?

I know of no such chap......Shirley, you can't be serious? ? I met Bonnie Tyler on DIY SOS and she was game for a laugh. Proper Welsh girl .

With a picture maybe ?

A man with a seagul on his head ?

? ????

Get a room you two !!

Go for brushed stainless or alu? Also watch that the tiles don't get chipped on those exposed edges in the meantime.

Won't that get hit by mops and hoovers?

White PVC angle on the floor? Would last about a day, ( and that's if nobody was in ).

Try getting a couple of these and mitre the corners. Set them into rapid set adhesive and allow to part cure. Before fully set, scrape the excess shoulder of adhesive from the inside edge and then grout to the tiles. Pour self leveller in to the required depth for the mat, so it's ~3mm proud, and enjoy ??

Are you tiling the floor first? Hope so. This was in my mates brand new Persimmon home. 13 bags of self leveller needed over a new liquid screed.....WTF. And the cloakroom. Stick the skirting tiles on with slow set powder tile adhesive. Use a straight edge to keep them as straight as possible, and a boat level to keep them vertical. Put insulation tape on the top edge of the tile as masking, and to stop your filler knife marking the tile, and use a hard filler to put a 90o edge between the tile and the wall. When you come to plaster, you'll then have a slight gap 3-5mm at accept the skim without encroaching on the top edge of the tile. Fwiw, tiled skirting all the way for me. ?