Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    30325

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    296

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    £200 are you nuts ?!?. Buy a level and a padsaw for change of £30 . Right. Describe properly what your dealing with. What do you mean no where near waterproof. ? Steel will eventually rust I assure you, especially where you cut the ends I think your heading in the wrong direction here, so let's discuss first ?
  2. Nickfromwales
    Fwiw, I'd 100% recommend ceilings first. 1) cables 2) plumbing 3) foam gap filling 4) ceilings 5) perimeter track on floor and ceiling plumb and square ( a laser is your friend ) 6) insulate if / where required and board walls putting either full osb sheets as cladding or pattresses where rads etc are going. Are you going metal as your not A1 with woodwork?
  3. Nickfromwales
    You can 'in-lay' the osb so it doesn't make the room smaller if that's an issue, say for hallways / landings etc, but other than that I'd heartily recommend cladding the metal stuff as I'm not a fan ( due to it being a bit flimsy compared to timber imo ). Have you fitted it before? Do you know to put struts ( sections of metal strut between stud and existing solid wall ) in at 1/3rd up and 2/3rds up to remove the 'twang' ? .
  4. Nickfromwales
    A sparky will swap those out in a wink of an eye. . Just have them to hand when fitting the CU.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Not going to be that easy sorry. As the UFH will never ask for more than 35oC, the return temp will never get high enough for long enough as the boiler will undoubtedly short cycle or stay in full modulation. This will be particularly problematic when the UFH is up to temp and requiring very little heat input. Fitting a buffer tank in between the boiler and the UFH would solve this, where the boiler would fire infrequently at higher temp to maintain the buffer stat set temp, whilst the UFH was able to draw as much or as little heat as it required. As your install stands, it's likely your boiler will just sit at a low modulating temp for the rest of its days, away from the range required for condensing. . Can you retrofit a buffer tank, say in an airing cupboard, where the heat loss would be useful? ( The E setting iirc is the sweet spot for condensing to occur ). Hope that helps
  6. Nickfromwales
    Not in onoffs bath, I'm pretty sure of that. ? I'm sad now, happy thoughts please people. ?
  7. Nickfromwales
    From the wider audience POV, this is a very informative exchange . Certainly separates what the difference is between simple 'good practice' and the actual regulatory requirements, with the latter, essential criteria, now well highlighted. I think that statement gives total clarity to the thread, thanks.
  8. Nickfromwales
    For the uninitiated. . 1:38 secs in lol. Damn I'm old. ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    "I just KNEW that something good was gonna happen". Back in the day, eh?.......
  10. Nickfromwales
    I used to DJ, so can provide some hands-in-the-air music to throw some shapes to. ??????
  11. Nickfromwales
    Hi, and welcome ?
  12. Nickfromwales
    Yes. It's common for the PRV to fail and 'let by'. Water comes out of the copper overflow pipe at the rear of the boiler ( outside wall ), but can be tricky to catch as it often will do it when the system is hot and it evaporates away. Zip tying a clear bag over the end and making sure rain doesn't get in is the best way to see if it's been discharging. This could be the problem. An average system is around 10 radiators. It may be that the system doesn't have sufficient expansion and is causing the PRV to open. The boiler gets topped up to say 1bar, then the system heats up. The high volume of system water expands beyond the capacity of the boilers expansion vessel ( EV ) and the PRV opens to relive the excess pressure. The system then cools down again, when the heating turns off, and the water contacts. As there is water missing, the system pressure drops below the low pressure threshold and the boiler goes into lockout with low pressure fault on the display. How often are you having to top up, and how long has this been a problem ? Do you know if there is an additional EV?
  13. Nickfromwales
    Looks the dogs bollocks mate ? Time to celebrate ? ??
  14. Nickfromwales
    @TerryE Dont you have a hideehole where you could remotely mount the cylinder ? Or is it out of sight where it is?
  15. Nickfromwales
    All for £40. ? Cheaper than shoplifting!
  16. Nickfromwales
    I think @Temp's point is a valid one. Stainless clips are easily sought, and as Peter says, there are correct and incorrect types. This isn't at you terry, this is about ensuring you and jan have a safe and reliable installation, hence you posting it accordingly for comment / approval. . Is the pipe sleeved where it goes through the wall ? Apologies if you've already answered that.
  17. Nickfromwales
    I assumed this would have been eliminated ?. Good point ? When the combi was fitted, did they fit new rad valves to BOTH sides of EVERY rad? How many radiators?
  18. Nickfromwales
    Sentinel Leak Sealer is what you want. . Very good stuff and works lightning fast. Dose and run the heating for an hour as hot as you can get it, then after the leak is cured, drain and top up the inhibitor.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Use this for sloppy joints. Sorry for the late heads up
  20. Nickfromwales
    What he said. ?
  21. Nickfromwales
    Hi @A_L. Thanks for the input . Can you give us a brief in the 'introduce yourself' section please ? . Many thanks ?.
  22. Nickfromwales
    I think they'll be more than happy to just leave you the tails sticking out for you to connect up as and when. One less thing to distract them from the important stuff .
  23. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Scratch it up with 40 grit and use the proper solvent weld cleaner before the actual weld. Clean is the rule.
  24. Nickfromwales
    ??? ?
  25. Nickfromwales
×
×
  • Create New...