Nickfromwales

Shhhhhh @JanetE..... I have to try and charge people for doing this on the basis that it's a "specialist job". ? ? From now on just say it's really tricky and never try this at home ????

And much easier to strim / mow against too.

Sorry, only now seeing this. ? Cheers for the effort, I'll order that this week so it's ready for the second fix electrics ? Bingo bango.

Works for me

You won't get your leg over ever again if you don't get a move on

He's a good looking guy

I think it's the one @jack posted earlier ?

Ffs just BUY one ????? £12 !!!!!!!! Some muvva's doooo 'ave 'em

@jamiehamy Ok cheers for the update . What is the invert ( the distance between the bottom of the outlet on the WC pan, to the bottom of the soil pipe where it reverts back to horizontal after the fall ) as you can petition not to have an AAV on the stack if the invert is, iirc, less than 1300mm. You can further reinforce that petition by fitting an AAV ( anti-vac ) trap on the basin so you have air admittance there.

Take photo and video evidence plus the testimony of the company that wants to rip it all out and start again and tell the house builders you'll go to the courts for compensation, and explain that you feel that you should discuss this with all of the neighbours to make them aware that they may also have incorrectly / poorly fitted systems. Explain that you'll only use a 3rd party contractor of your choice to carry out reparations and see with what / how they respond . Dont threaten them, just a polite letter of how you intend to proceed. If a camera survey shows moisture and mould growth in the bathroom / kitchen ducts then it's also a health hazard so maybe get the video survey done first for peace of mind ( and ammunition ? ).

Nowt nasty about that

Thats the current job. Former is 1200 long and the Hans Grohe iBox is the circle so that's where I've talked them into having the valve. They wanted it further out but I argued the point .

They look like they're all 100mm nominal vs 150mm with insulation to me. Strange that the inlet and outlet aren't 150/200mm eg upsized. The junctions should have been insulated and it looks like the branches tee off from the first runs, not good. Probably either not balanced or will be difficult to do so whilst keeping the noise levels down.

I thought you'd say that TBH. It is a load of extra work. Tbh, a low level tray will look super-smart going the full width of the room, and swmbo canbhave the tap anywhere over the tray so winner winner. Set the tray on the deck, [ and for the rest of the room ] lay 12mm ply and then tiles and adhesive so very little of the tray is left proud. ?

Hi tom and welcome. A lot of guys on here will be along shortly, but please hold off doing anything until you had some replies. The flexi ducting is extremely popular here and by no means a bad / incorrect product. . 100mm is also quite big so no problems there TBH. A camera survey of all the duct runs would be where I'd first spend money to ensure no kinks or flat spots. The company you've had come out and condemn it sound like they know very little about this system TBH. Hang around and we'll steer you in the right direction. ?

These were JJI's which I had to beef up. The webs got fully loaded with 22mm plywood, glued and screwed, then 18mm webs added top to toe, glued and screwed again. Bath going in here was 90kg empty so the flimsy joists weren't enough on their own imo so Capt OCD went to town. (x) mm ply goes under the former, equivelant size goes on top of P5 later. Then (x) mm ply goes all over the P5 to bring it back to one flush floor Or as @ProDave reminded me, do away with the ply, glue and screw the ? out of the P5 and use the Impey membrane which both bonds and decouples.

Not if it's a silicone Silicone won't stick to wet or even damp grout. It may last the day but it won't last long after. If using a non-silicone such as CT1 then if SPOTLESSLY clean and grout residue free you could seal the same day but not directly after.

@Crofter has a suspended floor over Mother Earth edit : Rob, is there insulation and an osb 'underbelly'?

Ring them ?

Half the money

Have you looked at these? Complete kit here

Tidy. I'll top it up with the ready brek in the morning. ? ✌️️

Isn't this only ever going to be an issue if there's a gap between the pipe and the concrete where the pipe is free to move in ? I've dug pipes out of rebar bound concrete before, and there is zero gap for movement or expansion afaics . Good praxtice would surely see folk at least trying tying the pipes on as per the green arrangement anyway though ? Makes sense to me and no extra cost / time etc.

If your in the shower and dripping wet then you go to change from rose to handset then water will drip onto the floor. I always promote that to be so it lands on the fall of the wet area so it's naturally draining away, rather than pooling on a flat section of the tiled floor where it sits until you towel it off.

Don't you mean tap?