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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Also, not a very neat install . Is the red EV supported by a clamp / bracket ?
  2. Nickfromwales
    Ah. Just tapped out and deleted a response as I missed the previous from you. It looks like an additional EV has been fitted, so the plot thickens. The leak you've uncovered seems the obvious culprit. Do you know exactly which pipe it's coming out of? The 15 and 22mm pipes which are sheared off should be dead, as if they weren't there would be a lot coming out.
  3. Nickfromwales
    If your airtight, you'd be better off drilling a hole, putting a 20 or 25mm PVC conduit through and then use airtight tape to seal the inside end of the conduit to the cables. Use something like CT1 or Sikaflex to seal the conduit to the fabric of the house accordingly, squirting just a little in the outside end around the cables to make it weathertight. A bit more tape that end if possible. A cheat here is to fix the conduit last so you can slide it back into the house to make off the inside with ease, then slide it too fat out to make off the outside. When you slide it back in, to its final position, the tape should be almost all inside the walls with next to nothing showing, thus making any exterior fitment of lights / other much easier.
  4. Nickfromwales
    The corrugations are a bit of a concern if you are trying to push a flimsy wire past more than one bend. Fwiw, try long radius bends, or even better, as near to straight as possible. Fine if your getting the sensor in on the day into loose conduit, but a pita when your trying to change one out. Smooth walled pipe for me every time.
  5. Nickfromwales
    I've bought a lot of stuff off eBay and may have just been lucky, but my experience has been pretty good tbh. I bought some shitty LED lights once, but after getting annoyed with them, ( and then connecting them up to the mains just to watch them die ), I bought some replacements and was back in business. High 'ranking' sellers mean they've been in business for a good while, so is a reasonable measure of their character. Negative feedback can be viewed to affirm or remove that confidence. The fleas come with the dog so buy unfamiliar stuff and take your chances, but the BetterBathrooms one I'm pretty sure is the one I've got. Still going strong and gets a hammering in my house.
  6. Nickfromwales
    These ones are 56mm deep and roughly £2 a blade. You won't get any longer than that, I don't think, as the end of the blade will be travelling too far then and putting much more stress on the tool head which will end up frying it.
  7. Nickfromwales
    Yes, is the short answer . As long as it can be accessed then it's a 'get out of jail' card. And there's MY get out of jail card upstairs manofold : 1 tee and air vent : 0 On a more grown up point, consider @PeterW's solution, as the manifold pump upstairs may give you some noise issues which wouldn't be so evident if it were downstairs. That said, they should be near inaudible anyway as the pumps run very quietly TBH.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Liquid screed, regular screed / other ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    You can get away with just one manifold upstairs ( serving up and down ) if that helps
  10. Nickfromwales
    Can you upload floor plans? It's not as much of a nightmare as you think. . I bullied Hugh ( @Bitpipe ) until he caved in and fitted it all between himself and the eversohelpful chaps of MBC. Draw it out a few times, get it wrong a few times, buy some more paper and keep going until you have no crossed pipes and just keep pipe runs to <100m and you'll be an UFH designer / fitter in no time. It really isn't rocket science, just a bit intimidating for the newbie as most look at it from a whole of house PoV, whereas it seems far more digestible if you just do it one room / space at a time ??
  11. Nickfromwales
    Have you established a CoP ratio from your data so far Jeremy? 3:1 more / less? Best to reiterate that the 400w with a CoP of 3:1 would net ~1200w of heat energy, give or take losses / efficiency etc.
  12. Nickfromwales
    It's pretty well documented by many, with a few on each side of the fence. 1) Do you have a wbs ? 2) Do you have a wbs + b/b ? 3) No wbs at all. This is mostly down to heart over head imo. If you REALLY want to light a fire, I know I do ( outdoors chimnea for BBQ ) then you'll go for one regardless. The relative question here is about yield. Do you really see yourself lighting it that often, and keeping it alight for long enough to store the heat from it ? During the summer it would probably see you vacating the room at the least, vacating the ground floor at worst, but it's also well documented that it's pretty much summer all year around inside if your up to PH or very near to. . @DeeJunFan Whats your fuel source for heating and water? And don't say wood
  13. Nickfromwales
    Sounds like you had fun. The muppets should have asked Vaillant to attend as they're quick at sorting problems and would rather have dealt with this swiftly than have a customer lose confidence in the product. Why they changed the pressure switches is a mystery TBH. The boiler automatically restarts upon sensing the pressure increase ( when you top up ) so that would have removed that from the process of elimination immediately, for me at least, ( by simply draining and refilling to prove it works ) . Thanks for the explanation though, as inside information is never a bad thing. ? Ill add the fault code as a tag .
  14. Nickfromwales
    The pipe that rises before meeting the tee is my variation bit. Not quite a vertical fall on that bit of D1!
  15. Nickfromwales
    This is using 102% of my processor power Nee bother lad .
  16. Nickfromwales
    What was the fault J?
  17. Nickfromwales
  18. Nickfromwales
    The flexi seems a plenty good enough solution. Put the starrett cutter down. .
  19. Nickfromwales
    Just adds a bit of character, .. I'm off to the naughty step.......
  20. Nickfromwales
    What avatar
  21. Nickfromwales
    This one looks identical to mine, so maybe just gone up in price a bit. Decent seller and good statistics.
  22. Nickfromwales
    One similar And another Check out the related viewed items when you scroll down the Ebay page and you'll see others from different sellers, round and square etc. I can't get the one I bought up as Ebay purchase history doesn't go back far enough ( mine was fitted just before Xmas 2014 ). I can't say if any of the above linked items will serve you well, but check the feedback and % of the sellers as 19,000 sales and above 90% positive feedback is half about. Mine is still going strong, and I've no complaints but remember that I've kept back a dozen tiles and can change this over a weekend if needs be. My only word of caution is of you stray from a well known make, you'll maybe struggle for spares later down the road. For the £90 though, you can afford to buy two and have one for spares. Also, these valves are fully demountable ( not fully removable ) from the front plate inwards ( which you remove to gain access to the innards ) so you can easily swap out a failed part IF you have / can get one. Hope that helps. ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Thanks J, no pressure lol. +1 to Daves comment. I think this may be a bit more than just the PRV passing, as there usually has to be a problem in order for it to open in the first place. My first guess is that the system volume ( when hot ) is greater than the actual capacity of the boiler expansion vessel ( EV ). @drliamski, what is the running ( set ) temp of th CH when it's on ? The boiler temp not the room stat temp please. . Ill also assume that if the existing radiators are still there, then the flow temp is probably running quite high to compensate for the fact that the rads aren't great at getting the heat out of the water and into the rooms. That will eggagerate the issue enough to push the system over its normal operating capacity, and cause the problems your having. I think this needs a secondary EV added to the heating return pipework, say 8-12 litres capacity, but first things first, the existing EV pre-charge pressure needs to be checked, along with the state of the diaphragm. With the boiler cold and the pressure at 1.5 bar, depress the shraeder valve centre pin on the EV ( the valve that looks like a car tyre inflation valve ) and allow all / any of the air to escape. Keep the pin depressed for a full minute afterwards. This will prove that the rubber diaphragm inside the EV hasn't become perforated. If it has, water will eventually come out of the shraeder valve during the 1 minute 'test period'. If it does, the EV will need replacing. If it doesn't, it'll simply need to be re-pressurised accordingly. Instructions for that upon request. The big bummer here, if it turns out to be as I suspect, ie insufficient EV volume, is that it's actually an installer error. So if that's the case, maybe ask them to fit the unit FOC? Needs a bit of investigation and surmising before pressing any buttons though.
  24. Nickfromwales
    Just realised that Ed @Construction Channel is late for this party. He loves tools so to speak.
  25. Nickfromwales
    A Hep waterless trap would do it, but one of the hotun traps is ready to go. Iirc this is from the guy who registered on EB where a lengthy volley ensued as to its suitability for retro fit ( where you couldn't guarantee that the soil and waste network could cope with high temp discharge over long periods e.g. an UVC losing its contents ). Your in copper to outside so it should tick all the boxes. I looked high and low. Just not for the right thing ?. Good find. ?
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