Nickfromwales

Browning is pretty good for bulking out actually, so I'd second that. Get the second coat on when the first goes hard, but not when the first is dry otherwise you'll have to PVA between coats.

Sorry, yes. No need to guess if things will line up that way, and you can then squeeze max fall out over the distance .

Plus one to just doubling up the layers. I did a 2 layered garage roof as the customer wanted to be able to walk on it when coming out of a upstairs French door. With 2 layers you could park a car on it.

Laser and a yardstick and you'll know to the mm in minutes .

I bolted two manifolds together ( 7 + 5 ), one pump one TMV / blender set with no issues, in a draughty poorly insulated house with 2.9m ceiling height. Didn't have enough space to put one long manifold in so just joint them with bent irons so the manifold went around the corner of the cupboard under the stairs. ? At least 5 loops were just short of 100m and one was around 130m. Worked like a dream.

Anymore dodgy jokes and the ? is going to hit the pan.

Do you mean 400mm joist spacing and 40mm joists ?

18 or 22mm. Anything else will have movement. He's talking ? , even more so as it's being tiled.

Any chance of some pics as you progress please @jack ? Be a good resource for anyone doing the same in the future. .

Firstly you need to make the affected areas more or less flush with the surrounding existing plaster / other, and then you need to prep the whole wall for skimming ( plastering ). Don't for a minute think that you'll get away with just patching in and painting as that's not going to be a practical option IMO . Over the bricks I'd first apply a PVA solution, 60% water 40% PVA, and saturate it, paying particular attention to the open edges of the existing mortar which will be loose and dry as a bone. After a couple of applications go over the bricks with neat PVA and then start building the gap up with bonding coat. You'll prob need to do that over two applications as its quite deep. Get that flush with the surrounding plaster and allow to dry. Prior to plastering the whole wall, I'd neat PVA the lot and allow to go tacky before skimming. If you PVA bits of the wall the skim will start drying out at different times and make skimming a pita.

PVA is used for many things build related. In the instance of plastering over it, regardless of it being cement render or gypsum plaster, the PVA must be tacky. Not wet, and most definitely not dry as that is like trying to get something to stick to plastic. If you wish to plaster then typically you need to ascertain the background ( type of surface upon which you wish to apply it ) and work out if it's high or low suction. For eg, painted walls it would be low suction ( near zero porosity) but for old black mortar it would be high suction. The difference is which will 'suck' the moisture out of the plaster faster or slower.

Can I just give you chaps a gentle nudge to start a new thread or pick up on an existing relevant one otherwise this subject matter will get lost in the 'introduce yourself' topic Thanks.

Get them back out, simple. .

Don't hold your breath Welcome aboard .

If you have 230v at the live at the tank then do you have 230v coming out? If yes, element is fried, if no then stat is fried. And +1 to Jeremy's reply.

Just dewire the pump and put the cable ends into connector blocks ? Or does that pump have a wireable plug that you can remove ? All you need to do is lift the live and just conn block it, don't even need to remove the wire tbh. .

Thanks. Will be good feedback. ?

Telford are who I use primarily TBH. They'll make a cylinder bespoke but others have bought them elsewhere, so maybe ask in a separate thread as that'll be a subject of its own, ( so best not to bury it here ). No real need for high efficiency ( aka high recovery ) coils with a low energy house as you just never need to inject that much heat in in any one go. More 'slow and steady' with a heat pump.

Yes. That way you keep the potable ( drinking quality ) water completely separate. I would not use a coil on the ashp, but would instead feed the buffer 'volume' direct as that'll have the quickest recovery / transfer rates of heat from the HP to the buffer / TS. Edit to add : that brine ( HP water ) needs antifreeze so I'd recommend a stainless coil for DHW uplift. You don't want those two bodies of water ever mixing ☠️

Either that or he hadn't opened the TMV fully. As you will still have a water path through the pump I'd disconnect the electric to the pump and fire it up from cold. If you get heat flow after <10 mins or so you've got your answer. .

The TMV then just becomes a failsafe device in case the Willis heater / its controller goes nuclear and tries to delivery heat to its infinity. So basically, you can't do away with the TMV even if you don't 'need' it .

That's the beauty of it, it doesn't need to 'pull' ( draw ). The TMV is just a gate which opens partially / fully to allow heated water to be introduce into the already recirculating, free flowing body of water ( between pump, manifold the Ufh loops ). That circuit allows the manifold pump to freely circulate regardless of the state of the TMV, e.g. open or closed the pump sees no real difference as the loops typically will have no motorised actuators per loop arresting flow. If the TMV opens partially then water will be forced down the return and subsequently back into the flow, and that will be gentle rather than a surge so basically linear with the required amount of heat input. It's a beautifully simplistic, self managing arrangement .

I use foam snickers ones, and just bin them when they go 'flat'.

Then you have to introduce antifreeze to the whole system .