Nickfromwales

Clocks ticking mate

Quite a bit on here

They won't hold back a 'traffic jam', so don't assume so. They're just for protecting the seals during installation times, ( I'd be more worried about them breaking down with UV Ray's ).

It's a wet room . He can pee anywhere he wants.

425 to the bit your arse hits .

I tend to put the seat level at 425mm. When I demonstrate the slightly higher ( referred to as 'comfort' ) height most older customers say it's much more forgiving. I would choose the 420mm option every day, regardless, and don't like a low toilet. Kids can use the chuck-away 'pee step' when their little legs don't reach, but...... "a loo is for life, not just for Xmas"

Sometimes I do wonder. F**k it, it's Friday after all. ???

It's static load, not dynamic TBH, and I've seen baths in terraced houses on 7x2" timbers half rotten and they're still there. Dont over engineer this unless your centre of the house mid span, in which case ( for a new build ) your architect should have designed this issue out. If not them, then certainly your builder / TF company ( whilst doing the structural engineering calcs ).

Right-o, shall I just rename the thread or what?!? Pmsl Can we summarise please?

Plant / grow a bloody big tree a short distance from the house?

Just have them put a disconnection point ( DP ) at the start of the duct and connect a temp cable to it. You can leave a drop wire on the fence or even along the ground as it's tough as old boots. Ask them for a master outlet and just cut some holes in a Tupperware box so it stays dry, if you leave it outside of course. Do you intend to have a site office / shed / other?

Simple solution TBH. We all just pile over to @readiescards house and run his batteries flat.

?. My talent is wasted. Yes, I'll find the thread discussing this and post it later. And DONT call me Shirley. Thank crunchie it's Friday

I'm reserving my copy now

I'd butter it up with silkabond both sides and bingo it'll be bombproof. ?✌️️

35

and what do you connect the Xbox, PS4 and gaming PC to? ?

You would with 4 kids and no bloody wifi. ?

Another thing to nudge you towards tiling A thing of beauty ?

Branches everywhere. ??

Only this one. Slip a small offcut ( x2 ) of 12mm ply say 80x80mm up behind the PB at the top, one either side of the white flush pipe. ( Screw a 6x100mm into the middle of each piece to make a handle so you can pull it tight against the PB ), then screw through the PB into the ply to make 2 ply patresses which are flush with the front of the blue frame. Cut a nice bit of 12mm ply ( 15mm may be better if the PB is 12.5mm and the skim takes the total thickness of the existing wall up to 15mm ), and make a piece that fills the top gap as best as possible. Apply a bit of neat PVA to the ply and your good to tile. Does that suit, Madame?

Re tiling, NEVER use ready mixed acrylic adhesive. Ever. Use a flexible powder floor / wall adhesive and make sure the tiles are buttered and the wall is full bed. Plumbers or sparkys diamond core drills will cut through later so up to you how brave you feel, but that's what I use for porcelain. Another cheat is to have two tiles meet at the centreline of the WC so you can nibble two semi-circles out of each tile accordingly.

It's only the 4th one that bothers me. That would benefit from some 12mm ply ( not PB ) with a hard setting adhesive such as PinkGrip. The weight transfers ( pivots on the bolts ) to the bar below the soil / pan connector with the upper section typically only ever seeing compression from the fixings. . Remember that the pan doesn't even touch the wall where your cutouts are so relax, pack No.4 a bit better, and take yourselves off for a vino. NOTE: For others approaching this point ( boarding ) just get a nice template that sits onto the pan connector and mark the other hole sizes & centres. Take the soil and flush plugs out and bung them or tape them up to protect the seals. Let your boarders just cut a 50mm cutout where the centre of the soil is and leave them board the wall WITHOUT cutting out for the various gubbings. Plasterers and boarders are great at boarding and plastering, but lack tools like hokesaws etc so don't expect any more of you leave them uninstructed otherwise. ( and sorry @JanetE as I can already hear you shouting "now he tells us!" ). Edit to add : mark a vertical plumb line on the face of the template so; 1) you get it spot on after boarding ( as you'll have no other visual reference ) 2) you don't use the template the wrong way around when cutting the holes later. ?

Ŵunderbar. ?